Question about mat cutting

[Justan]

I recently started learning how to use my F-T 2200 mat cutter. The instruction video that came with is an excellent guide. Even with that, it has taken some doing. I'm mostly able to get precise corners. One problem that I am still seeing is that there is a slight swell at the termination point of the cut. It appears to be due to compression of the mat material. A new blade doesn’t seem to make a difference. Is this normal? What is done to reduce the appearance?


TIA

 

[Lori Drugan]

You may need to change your underlament board more often. I actually never cut twice over the same spot. Or, check the depth of your blade. It might need to be shortened a bit.

Lori

 

[Prospero]

Could be the blade depth. You should set the blade out just enough so that it cuts through the mat and barely scores the sheet underneath.

What thickness blades are you using?

 

[Justan]

Thank you Lori!

Now that you mention it, I remember hearing about the need to change the underlayment each time in the training video. Evidently that is why they said it.

If that doesn’t do it I’ll see about shortening the blade overhang. I have been amazed and in a small way frustrated to find that the slightest difference on the blade makes a large impact on everything else.

 

[Justan]

Could be the blade depth. You should set the blade out just enough so that it cuts through the mat and barely scores the sheet underneath.

What thickness blades are you using?

Thanks for the feedback! I don't have the blades here but they are the thinest F-T sells. The training video said that the blade wants to go about 1/4th way into the underlayment and that's what i was targeting. Is that correct?

 

[Bob Doyle]

Blade depth and blade itself. The double edged blades seem to "flex" more than the single edge blades.

My prefered blade is the 1200 SE (or .012se depending who you buy from) the 1500 is thicker and works well with 8 ply mats.

Blade should go through the top mat and 1/2 way through the slip sheet.

 

[Joe B]

I agree with Bob Doyle completely about blade selection. One other thing that you may be doing and don't realize is putting to much pressure on the bar. If you force the bar down you will get a mix of problems, one being what you describe. Keep a firm but light pressure on the bar, just enough to keep the mat from moving, but do not force it down and try to be consistent with the pressure for every cut from start to finish.

 

[Justan]

Blade depth and blade itself. The double edged blades seem to "flex" more than the single edge blades.

My prefered blade is the 1200 SE (or .012se depending who you buy from) the 1500 is thicker and works well with 8 ply mats.

Blade should go through the top mat and 1/2 way* through the slip sheet.

Thanks. I think the blades are .012 and the paper is 4 ply. Does anyone other than F-T make comperable blades for the 2200?

*It just occurred to me: If this swell I'm seeing is actually caused at the start of the cut rather than the end, would that suggest that the blade length is too short?

 

[Bob Doyle]

No it would suggest that the blade holder head is moving when you put the blade in. Put your thumb (of your free hand) against the tube and the cutter head to stop the hea from moving. You'll only really need to do this little trick until you get the hang of keeping the head stationary.

 

[Justan]

I agree with Bob Doyle completely about blade selection. One other thing that you may be doing and don't realize is putting to much pressure on the bar. If you force the bar down you will get a mix of problems, one being what you describe. Keep a firm but light pressure on the bar, just enough to keep the mat from moving, but do not force it down and try to be consistent with the pressure for every cut from start to finish.

Thanks I hadn’t thought of the impact the bar can make. You are correct the bar could compress the paper. The mat cutter is pretty big and so far I haven’t needed to hold down the bar at all for cutting bevels. But sizing mat board is another story, as I learned the first time or two I tried

 

[Justan]

No it would suggest that the blade holder head is moving when you put the blade in. Put your thumb (of your free hand) against the tube and the cutter head to stop the hea from moving. You'll only really need to do this little trick until you get the hang of keeping the head stationary.

Excellent! I will try that- which reminds me, I still have to make some minor adjustments to the blade carriage. The video showed how to do this but I didn’t have the right size hex wrench on hand.

 

[Luddite]

Thanks for the feedback! I don't have the blades here but they are the thinest F-T sells. The training video said that the blade wants to go about 1/4th way into the underlayment and that's what i was targeting. Is that correct?

I would consider 1/4 thickness as a MAXIMUM on depth of cut in the slip sheet.Its amazing how short the blade needs to be for standard 4 ply! L.

 

[Bob Doyle]

I would consider 1/4 thickness as a MAXIMUM on depth of cut in the slip sheet.Its amazing how short the blade needs to be for standard 4 ply! L.

I like it a little deeper than a 1/4, the vellum and browns seem to really dull the blade quickly. A 1/2 does seem extremely deep for most jobs, can we settle on 3/8ths?

 

[Bill Henry-]

As others have mentioned, consistent blade depth is critical in getting uniformly perfect cuts and corners. I have found that the best depth for me is when the tip of the blade just barely breaks the surface of the slip sheet. That reduces the flexibility of the blade itself.

Another thing to be conscious of is that there is a natural tendency to straighten your back as you bring the blade head towards you. As you do that, you tend to reduce pressure on the hold down arm which often result in “hooks” as you finish the corner. Try to be conscious of providing uniform pressure on the bar during the entire cut.

 

[Luddite]

NICE DIAGRAM!!See,just what ah said....I like my blades short,and that explained why very well!BTW,I for the record,prefer double sided blades for most stuff,unless it is really dense,c ause you can use em twice.Just turn them over and use the other end ! L.