Putting Text On Matboard

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Shayla

Shayla

WOW Framer
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What have you done when you needed to have text (i.e. names and dates) written small on a mat? The options I'm familiar with are calligraphy (and our lady is great, but these are too tiny for her), cutting a window and putting the text behind that, or getting it printed on clear plastic and affixing that to the mat, but I don't like it because of the shine. Our college customer has 7 12 x 16's to be redone, each with 16 openings for student photos, and the old mats they're in look like they were pre-printed at the manufacturer. Perhaps the kind of company that contracts with schools to provide photos and yearbooks? Are there any good options aside from the above? And we don't have a Wizard 9000, but even if we did, this text is mighty tiny. Over and out...
 
You could go to a sign maker who has a flatbed printer. I'm not sure the resolution will be what you are after. Alternatively, you can get the old fashioned rub-on transfer letters. Either way, it's a lot of time and set-up.

James
 
For a one or 2 openings with a small amount of copy, I print it myself by hand. I spent TOO many years doing drafting and having to print all of the copy on every blueprint. I'm still good at it.
The second choice is an opening with copy from a computer. Third would be a plaque.

Orrrr..... you could set the whole thing up in the computer, laying out the openings needed and then printing not only the copy but the color of the mat as well thru an inkjet printer. Even if it was all printed on paper instead of a mat, you could glue the paper to the top of the mat before cutting the openings.
 
THIS COMPANY specializes in creating rubdown transfers (like they use to put text on museum walls for art exhibits, etc.).
I have used them many times to create names for photo mats for schools, synagogues, etc. You send them your word processing or graphic file and they send you the completed transfer.
This is all they do, and they do a great job.
:cool: Rick
 
Rick, is there any shiny from a plastic sticker backing that can be seen, or do only the letters remain?
 
Two options I can think of:
  1. If you have a printer (epson, canon, hp) you can print directly onto the matboard by adjusting the "platen" gap.
  2. If you have a printer, print the text/graphics on mat paper and mount in a rectangle opening in the mat.
 
If you have a laser printer:

1. Go to a sign shop and get some vinyl that is used for signs...like gold or silver...cut into a 8.5 x 11 sheet and feed thru you printer. Mount on mat board and trim to size. Really cool and cheap way to make "engraved" looking plaques.
2. Print the names in reverse using the "best" setting on your laser printer. Trim paper, using removable tape, tape the names to the mat board. Set your iron to hi/linen and press the names. You should be able to get the names to transfer to the mat. I would not try this method on your multi-holed mat, but rather, transfer the names to scrap matboard, trim to size and glue beneath the mat opening..that way if you mess up, you can repair your oops.

Brothers makes the P Touch labeling machines. At one time, you could buy transfer tape to use in the machine. Then you could transfer the names. I don't know how many multi-holed mated I did with this method.
 
I'm not sure of the problem. How tiny is tiny? Most CMC's with a pen tool could handle what you are describing. My Gunnar F-1 can write pretty small. If you want to see some incredible pen tool work with a Gunnar, look at the entries for this year's competition at Spring Fair.
 
shayla said:
Rick, is there any shiny from a plastic sticker backing that can be seen, or do only the letters remain?
Click to expand...
There is nothing but the lettering on the surface. You rub the words on, just like with Letraset, except you don't have to do it one letter at a time. Your rub through the translucent carrier sheet, which is then gently pulled away, then you burnish the type in place through a vellum-like cover sheet. It's easy to do. There is a minimum of a page, so if you don't have a lot of text to do you should duplicate what you need on the page, so in case you mess up you'll have another chance. This is not a cheap service, but it works very well. I just pass through my cost and charge for the time to create and send the document and to apply the lettering to the mats.
:cool: Rick
 
Thanks, all! This is wonderfully helpful.
 
framah said:
For a one or 2 openings with a small amount of copy, I print it myself by hand. I spent TOO many years doing drafting and having to print all of the copy on every blueprint. I'm still good at it.
The second choice is an opening with copy from a computer. Third would be a plaque.

Orrrr..... you could set the whole thing up in the computer, laying out the openings needed and then printing not only the copy but the color of the mat as well thru an inkjet printer. Even if it was all printed on paper instead of a mat, you could glue the paper to the top of the mat before cutting the openings.
Click to expand...

We used to print text and background on our Epson 7890 and then mount the printed items on mat and cut out the necessary windows like this all the time. Registration could be tricky, but not impossible. Now we use the pen tool on our new Valiani and very small text is a snap. I also feel like I am missing something in this discussion. What needs to be done that a pen tool on a CMC can't do?
 
i use my gunnar pen tool for small amounts of text, when a single line font works. But for others i print through my 9880.

i can get registration within a mm, i print on oversized board, key line the outside dimensions, trim to key line before putting in the gunnar
 
Kirstie, the CMC we have doesn't have a pen tool.
 
This is sort of low tech but I've used it in a pinch, print out the text in the font and size you want, put tracing paper over it, trace it, turn the tracing paper over, outline the letters with pencil, turn the tracing paper back over, lay it on the mat where you need the writing to appear and go over the lines with pencil; the pencil on the back of the tracing paper will lightly transfer to the mat and then you can go over that with paint or a lightfast marker/pen or whatever you want to use. It works well but obviously takes a bit of time and a type-A personality:)
 
...and more coordination than this kid has. I admire anyone with hands that steady. I'd have to do a total of 112, and they'd need to look sharp and lined up, so such a feat is beyond me using that technique. But I appreciate your input anyway, as that's a handy trick to know. I've called the customer to see if it's a go-ahead or not; we'll see.
 
shayla said:
...and more coordination than this kid has. I admire anyone with hands that steady. I'd have to do a total of 112, and they'd need to look sharp and lined up, so such a feat is beyond me using that technique. But I appreciate your input anyway, as that's a handy trick to know. I've called the customer to see if it's a go-ahead or not; we'll see.
Click to expand...
oooh, yeah that wouldn't be good for 112... :) Good luck!
 
stcstc said:
get get the local printer to stick them through his wide format printer

for what it will cost its not worth the effort to do anything else
Click to expand...

Agreed. Or any local framer who has a wide format printer and is artistic enough to create a background color for the text. Dry-mounting the printed sheet works well if you can work out the registration of the windows with your CMC.
 
Rick Granick said:
THIS COMPANY specializes in creating rubdown transfers (like they use to put text on museum walls for art exhibits, etc.).
I have used them many times to create names for photo mats for schools, synagogues, etc. You send them your word processing or graphic file and they send you the completed transfer.
This is all they do, and they do a great job.
:cool: Rick
Click to expand...
Rick you are a lifesaver! Thank you for this suggestion--I didn't even know about rubdown transfers! This is incredibly helpful. I am working with one of the oldest synagogues in the South on re-framing all of their Presidents' photos and haven't found anything close to this. Many thanks!
 
Rebecca Finger said:
Rick you are a lifesaver! Thank you for this suggestion--I didn't even know about rubdown transfers! This is incredibly helpful. I am working with one of the oldest synagogues in the South on re-framing all of their Presidents' photos and haven't found anything close to this. Many thanks!
Click to expand...
Welcome to the Grumble!
Pretty neat that a message thread that is literally ten years old to the week is still useful.
 
Rebecca Finger said:
Rick you are a lifesaver! Thank you for this suggestion--I didn't even know about rubdown transfers! This is incredibly helpful. I am working with one of the oldest synagogues in the South on re-framing all of their Presidents' photos and haven't found anything close to this. Many thanks!
Click to expand...
Hope that works for you. A few tips:
• When applying the lettering, rub firmly but gently, to avoid cracking the fragile lettering. Once it is applied, use a piece of the cover tissue to shield each name as you do your final burnishing.
• When framing a mat with transfer lettering on it, use a spacer of some kind to keep the glass from sitting directly against the mat surface, or there is a possibility the text could eventually stick to the glass.
• When creating your file to send for creating the transfer, have some extra text that you can practice applying and burnishing on a separate piece of the same matboard you are using, to perfect your technique.

If you can find a Chartpak burnishing tool like this one, it is the perfect tool for the job. The ball end is for applying the lettering, and the blade end is for final burnishing. It has adjustable spring tension to help control application pressure.
Screen shot 2025-02-13 at 2.53.02 PM.webp


:cool: Rick
 
Transfer lettering is a job for experts. It's not easy to make it look professional and it's so time-consuming.
I've had great results outsourcing to a flatbed printer. They can print on any material from matboard to plywood.
Not only for text but images. I had one customer request an image of a crashing wave. With a high-resolution image results are very good.
 
I wouldn't say you have to be an "expert" to do the transfer application, but it does take practice to get the technique right. I'm old enough to have used Letraset transfers in my design school career, and when I first opened my shop (in the days before desktop publishing) I used to do my own add copy using transfer lettering, borders, etc. Today's technologies are definitely beneficial and far more versatile, and yield better results.
:popc: Rick
 
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