Protection for a canvas painting...

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Janis

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Is there a spray or something that can be used on a canvas painting to protect it?
 
Generally, not always, I use Damar Varnish if it is painted in oil.
I don't varnish acrylics.
 
Is it an oil or an acrylic?

If it is an oil then a removable synthetic final picture varnish from a trusted supplier like Winsor & Newton, Liquitex or Gamblin would be my recommendation. These varnishes are removable with mineral spirits and can be brushed on or applied by airbrush.

If it is an acrylic, the general consensus among conservators is that they should not be varnished.

The best conservation practice with either type of painting is to use glazing in the frame. However I personally don't like glazing over canvas paintings except when placed in a public location.
 
Janis said:
Is there a spray or something that can be used on a canvas painting to protect it?
Click to expand...

Are you asking about your own original art, or something coming into the shop?

Oil, Acrylic, or Print on Canvas?

If it's something coming into the shop ... don't spray or brush anything on it.
No matter what you think, if it's not your work, you don't know what chemical or other interaction might occur.

Recommend some form of glazing (acrylic would be best, but glass is better than nothing) with a spacer or other form of standoff.

P.S. I guess Dave was posting as I was typing ;-)
 
Gilder said:
Generally, not always, I use Damar Varnish if it is painted in oil.
I don't varnish acrylics.
Click to expand...

Damar varnish is a tried and true natural varnish, but does yellow over time and is not as easily removed as modern removable varnishes when cleaning and revarnishing a painting.
 
Dave said:
Is it an oil or an acrylic?
... However I personally don't like glazing over canvas paintings except when placed in a public location.
Click to expand...

Dave, I tend to agree relative to Oils.

My understanding is that acrylics dry very porous. Essentially, under a magnification they look like a sponge. These "pours" collect dust and can not be cleaned like an oil can. Therefore, it is added reason to glaze acrylics that should be explained and understood.
 
Acrylic is a polymer, softens when it's warm or humid. Also produces static electricity. I agree with Damar Varnish, should buy something better, just can't
get rid the idea everything natural better than men made.
 
The removable varnish that Dave mentions is used more for evening out the finish than protection. Some artists are a bit inconsistent with their mixes and paintings can have shiny and matt patches. It is often termed "Retouching" varnish. It can be removed using turps.

The 'hard' varnishes can be removed in theory using acetone. However, it's a skilled job to do this and if the painting is done with heavy impasto, almost impossible.

Also consider how long the painting has been completed. Six months is a often quoted period to leave a painting before hard varnishing. But according to how thick the paint is and how it was mixed, it could need much longer. Oil paint cures over a very long time. If you varnish it too soon there is the danger that the varnish will bond into the paint surface and make it impossible to reverse.

In general, don't varnish unless:

The painting is of no value and wouldn't be missed.
The artist asks you to do it.
 
Janis said:
Is there a spray or something that can be used on a canvas painting to protect it?
Click to expand...

Others have asked important questions. Without those answers, we can only suggest blindly.

What do you want to "protect" against?

If the painting is oil and all you want is protection from dust and airborne soils, varnish will serve the purpose. After the applied layer becomes soiled it can be removed and replaced, taking the soil with it.

If the painting is acrylic, any coating you could apply probably would do more harm than good, over time.

If you want to protect against abrasions, punctures, damage from light, damage from flexing due to impacts and vibrations, damage from expansion/contraction cycles due to temperature and humidity changes, and damage from reactions with airborne chemical pollutants, the only choice is glazing with glass or acrylic, and an air space. In that case, optically coated, anti-reflection glazing can be almost invisible when displayed proper lighting. No matter what you do on the front, closing the frame with solid backing (no venting) is recommended.
 
prospero said:
The removable varnish that Dave mentions is used more for evening out the finish than protection. Some artists are a bit inconsistent with their mixes and paintings can have shiny and matt patches. It is often termed "Retouching" varnish. It can be removed using turps.

...
Click to expand...

I'm not referring to retouch varnish which should not be used as a final varnish.

All three manufacturers I suggested make final synthetic removable varnishes.

My personal preference is W/N's Conserv-Art varnish. I like a satin finish so I mix two parts matte to one part gloss. It flows on smoothly and is removable with mineral spirits.
 
Uh oh, here we go. Yes, there are protective sprays. Krylon has come out with a nice line they call the Gallery Series. Their claims include non yellowing, uv protection, removability etc. The question of when & how to use them & the possible result is important to clearly discuss. Re: acrylics, While the argument for glazing is compelling I'd still say that a protective varnish would be a good idea, a better idea even than nothing at all & probably even along with glazing. Again, the question of who should take responsibility for that might be another matter. The best practice I've heard of is to use a water born isolation layer followed by a removable top coat.
 
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