I have a Fletcher 2100 mat cutter with the production stop feature. Is there any sort of tricks to setting the stops to ensure perfect cuts, or do the stops have to be reset for different kinds of matboard (because of thickness). Any thoughts appreciated. Thanks.
PRODUCTION STOP TRICKS
- Thread starter Jason
- Start date
Ron Eggers
SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God
My trick was to remove the stops altogether and resume marking the back of the mat with an Incra rule.
I reluctantly re-installed the parallel mat guide so I could cut the occasional v-groove.
I reluctantly re-installed the parallel mat guide so I could cut the occasional v-groove.
No tricks I know of. What I'll do is make sure the blade depth is good first then take a scrap I know is perfectly squared up. I'll cut a 2" wide mat starting with cutting 2 opposing ends. Then the third cut will cross over the other 2 and I can check for any over or undercuts, make fine tune adjustments, and cut the 4th side to make sure all is well.
Wow, since I got my Wizard it's been a almost 10 years since I've done that. I almost miss it.
Wow, since I got my Wizard it's been a almost 10 years since I've done that. I almost miss it.
John Ranes II CPF GCF
SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Jason,
Although you typically have to adjust stops for different thicknesses of matboard, the minor differences between Crescent RagMat, Bainbridge Alphamat, paper mats and similar boards are minor enough that one accurate setting should hold for these boards.
Now when you switch to a Bainbridge Suede or Moorman board, indeed you'll need to recalibrate. If you find yourself switching frequently, then the investment of a second set of stops may well be the way to go.
When calibrating stops, do make sure that the guide is perfectly parallel first. This is paramount, as it will throw off both stop settings.
As you're using a Fletcher F-2100 with Measuring Stops, one little "trick" is to make sure you remove the stops (after calibration) and tighten the locking screw on top and bottom stops <u>while the stop is removed</u> and not on the machine. This way you'll exert enough force for the locking screw to hold your setting. If tightened while on the machine, they can dislodge too easily.
Regards,
John
Although you typically have to adjust stops for different thicknesses of matboard, the minor differences between Crescent RagMat, Bainbridge Alphamat, paper mats and similar boards are minor enough that one accurate setting should hold for these boards.
Now when you switch to a Bainbridge Suede or Moorman board, indeed you'll need to recalibrate. If you find yourself switching frequently, then the investment of a second set of stops may well be the way to go.
When calibrating stops, do make sure that the guide is perfectly parallel first. This is paramount, as it will throw off both stop settings.
As you're using a Fletcher F-2100 with Measuring Stops, one little "trick" is to make sure you remove the stops (after calibration) and tighten the locking screw on top and bottom stops <u>while the stop is removed</u> and not on the machine. This way you'll exert enough force for the locking screw to hold your setting. If tightened while on the machine, they can dislodge too easily.
Regards,
John
printmaker
CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
Haven't used the stops since we got a CMC, but here goes my 2 cents worth:
Firstly, I loved the stops. Once you get used to them, they are faster than marking mats the "old way" (IMHO). Admittedly, I never (ever) locked down the left stop ... just held it in place to start the cut ... and this made for quick (and accurate) cuts.
One thing when using stops, be careful that your blank is square, especially at the corner where it comes into contact with the guide...
A small "hook" on the end where the edge of the mat comes into contact with the guide, can throw off your "perfect cut", as the actual distance from the edge of the mat to the cut will be off...
These "hooks" are quite common when using wall mounted board/glass cutters to cut your blanks.
Hope this helps. Also hope it made sense.
J Phipps TN
SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
I always thought the stops would be a pain if you weight the bottom mat as I do on everything. Is that true?
JEnnifer
JEnnifer
johnny, that's the way I do it. I hate marking mats. Of course, if I am cutting more than one opening I still do. I have never (yet) had to reset for different mats, but then again there has been no real difference in the thickness of the mats I have been cutting. Blade depth can give you massive overcuts. Take that into consideration when calibrating the stops.
BTW Jennifer, What does it mean to weight the bottom mat?
(*duh*)
BTW Jennifer, What does it mean to weight the bottom mat?
D
Dermot
Guest
Over size the mat so that all sides will be equal…..cut the window …..then trim three sides……result……a weighted bottom…..
Rgs
Dermot
Rgs
Dermot
I have gotten very dependent on the production stops for quick, accurate windows. If the bottom is to be weighted, I lightly write in pencil the meaurements for all four sides as a reminder of the setting for the stops. This works for me.