PRODUCTION STOP TRICKS

Jason

CGF, Certified Grumble Framer
Joined
Dec 3, 2004
Posts
198
From
Iowa
I have a Fletcher 2100 mat cutter with the production stop feature. Is there any sort of tricks to setting the stops to ensure perfect cuts, or do the stops have to be reset for different kinds of matboard (because of thickness). Any thoughts appreciated. Thanks.
 

Ron Eggers

SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God
Joined
Jul 6, 2001
Posts
16,932
From
Wisconsin
My trick was to remove the stops altogether and resume marking the back of the mat with an Incra rule.

I reluctantly re-installed the parallel mat guide so I could cut the occasional v-groove.
 

johnny

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Joined
Jun 7, 2004
Posts
3,601
From
Ohio
No tricks I know of. What I'll do is make sure the blade depth is good first then take a scrap I know is perfectly squared up. I'll cut a 2" wide mat starting with cutting 2 opposing ends. Then the third cut will cross over the other 2 and I can check for any over or undercuts, make fine tune adjustments, and cut the 4th side to make sure all is well.

Wow, since I got my Wizard it's been a almost 10 years since I've done that. I almost miss it.
 

John Ranes II CPF GCF

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Joined
Jun 7, 1999
Posts
3,807
From
Appleton, Wisconsin, USA
Jason,

Although you typically have to adjust stops for different thicknesses of matboard, the minor differences between Crescent RagMat, Bainbridge Alphamat, paper mats and similar boards are minor enough that one accurate setting should hold for these boards.

Now when you switch to a Bainbridge Suede or Moorman board, indeed you'll need to recalibrate. If you find yourself switching frequently, then the investment of a second set of stops may well be the way to go.

When calibrating stops, do make sure that the guide is perfectly parallel first. This is paramount, as it will throw off both stop settings.

As you're using a Fletcher F-2100 with Measuring Stops, one little "trick" is to make sure you remove the stops (after calibration) and tighten the locking screw on top and bottom stops <u>while the stop is removed</u> and not on the machine. This way you'll exert enough force for the locking screw to hold your setting. If tightened while on the machine, they can dislodge too easily.


Regards,

John
 

printmaker

CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
Joined
Mar 4, 2003
Posts
356
From
Richmond Hill, Ontario, Canada
Originally posted by Jason:
... Is there any sort of tricks to setting the stops to ensure perfect cuts...
Haven't used the stops since we got a CMC, but here goes my 2 cents worth:

Firstly, I loved the stops. Once you get used to them, they are faster than marking mats the "old way" (IMHO). Admittedly, I never (ever) locked down the left stop ... just held it in place to start the cut ... and this made for quick (and accurate) cuts.

One thing when using stops, be careful that your blank is square, especially at the corner where it comes into contact with the guide...

A small "hook" on the end where the edge of the mat comes into contact with the guide, can throw off your "perfect cut", as the actual distance from the edge of the mat to the cut will be off...

These "hooks" are quite common when using wall mounted board/glass cutters to cut your blanks.

Hope this helps. Also hope it made sense. :eek:
 

Mecianne

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Joined
Jan 7, 2005
Posts
2,229
From
Alabama
johnny, that's the way I do it. I hate marking mats. Of course, if I am cutting more than one opening I still do. I have never (yet) had to reset for different mats, but then again there has been no real difference in the thickness of the mats I have been cutting. Blade depth can give you massive overcuts. Take that into consideration when calibrating the stops.


BTW Jennifer, What does it mean to weight the bottom mat?
shrug.gif
(*duh*)
 
D

Dermot

Guest
Over size the mat so that all sides will be equal…..cut the window …..then trim three sides……result……a weighted bottom…..


Rgs

Dermot
 

Mecianne

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Joined
Jan 7, 2005
Posts
2,229
From
Alabama
oh...okay. Yeah, then the stops are sort of a pain, because you have to flip flop the settings. It's not too bad as long as you aren't scatterbrained like me & get the measurements mixed up.
 

Sister

MGF, Master Grumble Framer
Joined
Apr 18, 2004
Posts
945
From
Alabama
I have gotten very dependent on the production stops for quick, accurate windows. If the bottom is to be weighted, I lightly write in pencil the meaurements for all four sides as a reminder of the setting for the stops. This works for me. :D
 
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