• Welcome! You will have to REGISTER a free account, before you can access the system. If you already registered, please LOG IN. (top right)
    If you can't remember your password, CLICK HERE to reset it. If you have questions, feel free to click the CONTACT US link at the bottom of this page.
LifeSaver Cloud from LifeSaver Software, Inc.

Problems with "Super Steel 1 Hangers"?

Echobelly

Grumbler in Training
Joined
Nov 7, 2019
Messages
11
I like using the super steel hangers from Larson/Juhl on frames with very narrow backs. They have holes in the back of each for two normal screws or two very small screws and a tab stamped out and angled up to tie your wire to. Recently a medium sized picture with glass that had only been framed a month or so fell off our gallery wall because the wire broke. I looked at it, and the wire had actually been cut through by the somewhat sharp edge of the hanger. We use vinyl coated wire, so this surprised me. I'm concerned with customers work I've used them on. I try to avoid them now, but have occasionally needed to on heavier frames that can use the added strength of the second screw, so I wrap the part the wire is tied around with heavy cloth tape to give it extra cushioning. I was just looking at the packaging they come in and it says "do not double loop". I don't see how a single loop would prevent this problem, I always use a framers knot to tie the wire. Has any one else had this problem?
 

Larry Peterson

PFG, Picture Framing God
Forum Donor
Resource Provider
Joined
Apr 8, 2003
Messages
8,449
Some suggestions.

1. Switch to Flangers.

2. Switch to acrylic on heavier frames with narrow mouldings.

3. Try Super Softstrand
 

wpfay

Angry Badger
Forum Support Team
Forum Donor
Joined
Sep 1, 2000
Messages
10,761
Questions:
How tight is the wire across the back of the picture?
What was the weight of the picture?
What weight wire were you using?
 

nikodeumus

MGF, Master Grumble Framer
Joined
Apr 21, 2015
Messages
578
How do you paper the back of the frame with the Flangers.
Doesn't the cleat over the back edge make that difficult?
 
Rian Fabrication Services  www.rianfabrication.com

Framar

WOW Framer
Joined
Jul 24, 2001
Messages
25,348
Paper and Flangers present a difficult task. You kind of have to apply the paper with a bit of "give" in it so the cleat does not punch through. Sometimes I stick a bit of J-Lar in the spot to reinforce the paper. (I don't use them that often - got 2 free boxes way back when after getting my story published in "Nightmare on Framestreet." Most of the time I forget I even have them.)
 

David Hewitt

CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
Joined
Feb 26, 2009
Messages
402
super steel hangers from Larson/Juhl
packaging they come in and it says "do not double loop". I don't see how a single loop would prevent this problem, I always use a framers knot to tie the wire. Has any one else had this problem?
They do have a sharp edge, deburring and sanding with emery paper will smooth the surface.
The manufacturer is AMS, I called them once on the single loop theory, they said they did a test and that the single loop held better.
I personally like the locking of the framers knot, but because of a possible liability problem when using the Super Steel hanger I do the single loop. ( Following manufacturers recommendation)The single loop with stainless steel wire (Soft Strand) needs many more wraps Think 21 like the card game. If you don't do a lot of wraps with SS you will be able to unwrap it with little pull on the wire, try it you'll be surprised.
 

Joe B

PFG, Picture Framing God
Forum Donor
Joined
Mar 29, 2008
Messages
5,117
I'm not a Super Steel Hanger fan - they do cut the wire with the sharp edge. If the customer moves the framing to often causing the wire to run up and down that U portion, the sharp edge will sooner or later cut the wire. There are some applications where the Super Steel Hanger is necessary but I use D ring hanger whenever possible, even on thin frame. On the thin frames I just put the the base of the small D ring hanger to the grinding wheel and grind off a portion so it fits the frame without being seen from the front.

When I do need to use the Super Steel Hanger, which I also purchase from Larson, I cut a 3/8" piece of "Duck" Duct Tape about 1 inch long, fold over one end to make it easier to insert through the "u" portion of the hanger and wrap it 2 or 3 times. I make sure the tape is very tight. I cut off the folded portion of the tape and then install my wire - it take a few minutes longer this way but I have never had a wire failure since I started doing this.

I have not used the Flanger Hanger so I cannot comment on those about how good they are or if they would cut the wire. I believe that I would have a problem with the Flanger Hanger because of the piece (cleat) that folds over the inside edge of the frame possibly cutting the dust cover, but that is just my thoughts.

IMG_1036.JPG
 
Last edited:

Framar

WOW Framer
Joined
Jul 24, 2001
Messages
25,348
I agree. I far prefer D-rings. And I take tin snips to clip off any part that would be visible from the front, then file down the rough edges just in case. And the rings are made of round metal so they do not cut through the wire.
 
LifeSaver Cloud from LifeSaver Software, Inc.

JFeig

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Joined
Oct 13, 1999
Messages
4,534
This has been a problem with several stamped hangers over the years. There is a very basic standard process for deburing metal stampings for years. It is called a tumbler where that parts are inserted into a vibrating tub with abrasive ceramic "stones" with some water and detergent. After a predetermined time the parts are removed by a magnetic belt without burrs. Yes these machine can debur tens of thousands of parts at a single time depending on the size of the tub. I have no idea why this technology is not being used by the picture frame hardware manufacturers.
 

Framar

WOW Framer
Joined
Jul 24, 2001
Messages
25,348
I bought a bag of 1000 tapped corners from Decor and was surprised to find a handful of little round ceramic "peas" included. These must be what is used in the deburring process. Took me a bit to figure out what the heck they were. They were ranging in size from maybe 3/16" to 3/8" diameter.
 

Echobelly

Grumbler in Training
Joined
Nov 7, 2019
Messages
11
Some suggestions.

1. Switch to Flangers.

2. Switch to acrylic on heavier frames with narrow mouldings.

3. Try Super Softstrand
I do use Super Softstrand wire, #6 was on this pic, which is about 2x3 ft. I can't switch to acrylic on most pics, the customers don't want the extra cost, and we're not talking about huge pics.
 

Echobelly

Grumbler in Training
Joined
Nov 7, 2019
Messages
11
I'm not a Super Steel Hanger fan - they do cut the wire with the sharp edge. If the customer moves the framing to often causing the wire to run up and down that U portion, the sharp edge will sooner or later cut the wire. There are some applications where the Super Steel Hanger is necessary but I use D ring hanger whenever possible, even on thin frame. On the thin frames I just put the the base of the small D ring hanger to the grinding wheel and grind off a portion so it fits the frame without being seen from the front.

When I do need to use the Super Steel Hanger, which I also purchase from Larson, I cut a 3/8" piece of "Duck" Duct Tape about 1 inch long, fold over one end to make it easier to insert through the "u" portion of the hanger and wrap it 2 or 3 times. I make sure the tape is very tight. I cut off the folded portion of the tape and then install my wire - it take a few minutes longer this way but I have never had a wire failure since I started doing this.

I have not used the Flanger Hanger so I cannot comment on those about how good they are or if they would cut the wire. I believe that I would have a problem with the Flanger Hanger because of the piece (cleat) that folds over the inside edge of the frame possibly cutting the dust cover, but that is just my thoughts.

View attachment 35030
I have been covering the flange with tape since this happened. Glad to hear I'm not the only one having this issue. Of course I use D-rings most of the time, but sometimes the Supersteel is needed.
 
Rian Fabrication Services  www.rianfabrication.com
Top