Problem joining Nielson moulding

Create a Post
J

joe

CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
Joined
Nov 19, 1998
Posts
399
Loc
whitewater,wi.53190 usa
I am having trouble joining a 1" moulding. I am using nielson hardware, but when I tighten down the lengths are not tight and can be moved apart. Tightening the screws also moves the pieces apart. Any ideas?

thanks
 
Two pieces of hardware with the writing of both facing the front of the frame ?
 
Maybe the moulding was chopped crooked. If you lay them out on a flat table without the hardware do they seem to form proper corners?
:cool: Rick
 
Joe, In your last life did you work for me? LOL
 
I'm curious as to the size of the piece. Also, did you cut
the frame yourself or have it cut elsewhere?
 
Jeff Rodier said:
Two pieces of hardware with the writing of both facing the front of the frame ?
Click to expand...

You didn't answer this, so I'll ask again.

Are you using both the hardware with the screws AND a back plate piece of hardware? The screws push the back plate against the back of the metal frame. Without the back plate, tightening the screws would get the results you mentioned.
 
Joe, are you using the new Quick Corner hardware by Nielsen ? As I am having a spot of bother joining their frames at present using the above which has screws already threaded into the L bracket.
I have joined thousands of aluminium frames over the last .... Thirty years.
 
By 1" square I take it you mean the Nielsen N97 aluminium profile?

News Flash - something I have long known and my suppliers have long denied is that different batches of this moulding will not line up properly when you join them. The thickness seems to vary so that you will get an untidy step of up to a millimetre in the corners.

The only solution I have come up with is to mark or scratch a date on the back of all the offcuts so I can match them up when using them. Sometimes the ribbed markings in the channel at the back can be used as a guide to compatibility but, usually, I test join all offcuts before cutting them. It is a P.I.T.A. but this stuff is too expensive to waste and too useful to give up.
 
I am using the back plate when I join the pieces. The hardware is the same I've used for years. The size of the picture is 16x20. I did cut the lengths. Moulding is a Nielson N75-20. The cuts look ok. Guess I'll have to call Gemini and have them chop and join.
 
I use a Clearmount Single Saw to cut my metal mouldings. I’ve found that the “hold down” clamp for profile #75 is touchy. The rods that are supposed to clamp the interior rabbet actually first touch the top part of the channel and ever-so-slightly push the moulding up such that the bottom of the moulding no longer lies flat against the table.

I’ve had to “shim” the bottom of the hold down clamp with a small strip of typewriter paper to get the clamp to align properly. That, and adjust the tension of the hold down clamp so as to exert very little pressure.

I suspect that something similar is happening to your moulding in that the profile is rocking up slightly out of square before you make your cuts … if that makes any sense. :o
 
Create a Post
Back
Top