Pricing for PMA vs Drymounting

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Rozmataz

Rozmataz

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Joined
Jun 13, 2002
Posts
2,773
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Fingerlakes Region of NYS
Just used PMA for the first time. It's an interesting product....

First, how do you price for this vs drymounting? same, less, more? UI? Sq In?

Second, how do you keep the adhesive off the edges of the piece? Gets a bit messy... or is it my newbie technique!

Thanks, Roz
 
Oops, I didn't mean to use that "funny" smiley.... how can I edit it! Just wanted a smile! :confused:
 
Roz, you edit the Graemlins, whether they are in the title or in the message, the same as you do any other editing. Push the edit button and make your changes. People also don't seem to realize you can edit the title of a new thread you've started the same way if you later discover a typo.

I'm a stickler about some kinds of typos - not because I'm such an ace typist but because it simplifies any search done for the thread later on. Imagine looking for references to "Cyro" and missing a key one because somebody (like Less) was calling them "Cryo" instead. For this reason, I will go in and correct certain kinds of typos, especially in the titles, of other people's posts. If anyone is bothered by that, let me know.

Regarding the pricing of PMA vs dry mounting: I don't use PMA, but I use Perfect Mount on Super Smooth, which is substantially more expense than fomecore and mounting tissue. So when I do my cost of materials analysis, I base all my prices for permanent mounting on the more expensive product. I suppose I'm over-charging for tissue mounting, but I don't want too many pricing levels and I don't want anyone requesting heat mounting on anything that should be pressure mounted just to save a buck or two. So I charge the same and use what is appropriate. Obviously any type of C/P mounting is a different deal altogether.
 
Ron -

Thanks for the edit info.

And, how does the PMA differ from the product you use? Price not being the most important aspect of the use of it!!!

I was getting the "orange peel" affect as was stated in another thread.. and practiced with my own photos - only to discover that older photos don't seem to have the same poor surface after drymounting. Hmm?!

I really like the PMA approach - but am certainly open to better ways of doing it!!

Thanx!
 
Roz, I charge the same as a standard dry mount.

In most cases it is actually faster, but why should we not profit from that.

You will quickly become better at avoiding the mess. A thread on the technique of using PMA would be interesting.

Ron, I rather enjoy having you clean up my mess. Someone has to do it. Did I say thank you yet?
 
Roz, 3M's PMA - Positionable Mounting Adhesive - and Crescent's Perfect Mount are both popular products that work well. I haven't found that either is particularly repositionable, so I don't count on that. The Perfect mount comes in 32x40 sheets for application to a variety of substrates. It also comes pre-mounted to x-board, 3-x board, 3/16" fomecore and Crescent's Super Smooth. This last product is pricey and can be hard to find, but it is the one I use most often for cold mounting to avoid some of the problems you mentioned. The PMA comes in rolls in 2 sizes and has an applicator available which is handy, but unnecessary. You can put either in a cold mount press, but I don't do this with high-gloss papers and photos.

It may just come down to which is more readily-available from your distributors.

Less, you're welcome, but I won't always be there to bail you out, so try and be more careful. ;)
 
I find the 3M PMA very repositionable, and even have had success pulling photos back up after burnishing. A little scary though.
 
Roz,

Like Ron, we didn't want too many tiers of mounting prices, so manually priced "Cold Pressure Sensitive Techniques" as we would price our Dry Mounting (ColorMount - Seal Press). We recognized that the material expense with Perfect Mount is higher.

Today, it is easier, as we have set up multiple mounting procedures on our Specialty Soft Point of Sale software. We have one for Dry Mounting, another for Dry Mounting on Foam centered boards, and another for Perfect Mount. What's great about this system, is that you can create new charges on the fly. (Just last night we added a tenth mounting table for sending our oversized projects to a local map company.)

In all situations, the frame designer makes the decision on what is the appropriate procedure and selects that option. The POS then clearly identifies the procedure, and charges the appropriate amount!


By the way, we also prefer stocking Perfect Mount over 3M's PMA. It's a bit more user friendly. A bit of "fly-away" PMA stuck somewhere where you don't want it, can be a real PIA! :mad:

John
 
Way Back in the early days of my framing career (1981) we used PMA at the shop where I started. We had a few problems with pieces bubbling.

Fast Forward to 1987 when I started my own shop; I discovered a great use for PMA. I ordered a 12" roll of it and use it for the back of marbled or otherwise patterned paper that I plan to cut into strips for panels on mats. I found that the papers with adhesive already on them stuck too aggressively and were not repositionable. PMA has just the right amount of tack. It is easy to apply and plus you get to use that cool little blue squeegee. I apply the adhesive first, then cut into whatever width strips I am in the mood for that day, then peel off the white paper backer and stick it down! Then just for yucks and insurance, I use that squeegee to "burnish" down the panel on the mat.

(That could be a whole other thread, couldn't it? 101 uses for that little blue squeegee...)

edie the squeegee goddess

P.S. This is one of my "trade secrets," so keep it just among us, okay? Thanks!
 
I have used the PMA, and while not overly fond of the material, I found that it works pretty welll when you have to mount something like a digital photograph that would melt in a heat press. I presonally prefer to use the Perfect Mount by Crescent, as it is low mess. I also notice that the "repositionable" aspects of the material are somewhat suspect, as very VERY rarely have I been able to adjust what goes down. That's why I always cut the board at least an inch larger than I need, so that I don't have to worry so much about hitting center first try.
 
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