potentially neat needlework mounting method I fround in a customer's frame

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I tried to choose a topic heading that woudldn't draw a lot of "Can't you just look in the archives..." responses.

A client brought in two lovely, small (approx. 5" x 7")crewel pieces in what were probably very lovely frames at the time they were made but now they look a little too narrow and the mats begged to be changed. But that is not the poit of this post.

These pieces are stitched on very fine linen (about 28 count) the original fabric is trimmed very near the widest portions of the design. The previous framer seems to have made essentially a small muslin pillowcase the size of the desired frame. The needlework is basted around its perimeter onto one side of the pillowcase, which is then slipped over a piece of 3/16" foam center board. The open end of the case is whip stitched closed over the end of the board. I'm interested to know what some of our more expert resident experts think about the merits of this method (substituting fluted polypropylene for the foam board, of course). It seems to me it might go faster than lacing, and since the crewel is more forgiving than cross-stitch it might be fine.

(I would skip the step where paper mats are stuck directly to the fabric with ATG)

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thank you in advance.

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Meghan C. McCord, CPF
J. Pocker & Son
Rye, NY
mcm87@att.net
 
Meghan;
I'll stick my neck out first although I am a long way from the "Resident expert" classifcation.
The method you are describeing(Baring any CUTTING the work )Is the method I was taught to mount Old antique stitchery.
Old work is often frail and brittle and as such will not withstand any stretching,even Lacing. So what is recomended is that a neutral sleve such as muslin is slipped over a C/P board and the work is Blind stitched to the sleveusein a thread similar to the fabric so that it will give with or before the work does .An old technique that my dearly departed Mother taught me ,that was done in her day, was to remove a thread from the work and use that but that might be just as frail or brittle so we use something of similar strength and texture. Then the open end of the sleve is stitched closed .The work can then be matted and framed in the appropriate C/P methods.The work I saw done in this method was an antique sampler and it was mounted in a floating like method.
Previously when I said "Barring CUTTING " I was refering to "the original fabric is trimmed very near the widest portions of the design." this should never be done with work of the antique type and even when it is a mere quicky needle work project there should always be appx. a 3 in. finishing boarder left by the stitcher and by NO means should the work be trimmed that close by anyone.
Now that I have exposed my ignorance I'll set back and read what the TRUE experts have to say.
BUDDY

[This message has been edited by BUDDY (edited January 17, 2002).]
 
In the past I have basted old stitchery to muslin, then stretched the muslin over a backing board - but this method sounds better. It would support the piece without putting any stress on the antique fabric.

Now, all I need is a customer with an old piece of needlework so I can try it out.

Thanks, Meghan

Kit

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Time flies like an arrow; fruit flies like a banana
 
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