Polystyrene Molding

[rickclick]

I'm sure this has been covered before, but I am new to the Grumble so thanks in advance for your assistance.

I have been purchasing polystyrene molding from Wall Molding. The quality is very good and it's easy to work with (once you get the hang of it!). My question is this, is this type of molding acceptable for conservation framing? Does it require the same treatment as wood or something different.

I was at the WCAF show in Las Vegas. Please, if your considering polystyrene molding don't listen to the advice of most of the vendors, they don't have a clue on the proper way to cut and join. If any of you are interested I'll post instructions for the best techniques for working this type of molding, I've been using it for nearly 5 years with great success. There are vendors that do know what they are doing and they've been a great help!

Thanks,
Rick

 

[b3enthusiast]

RickClick,

PLEASE post your instructions……I just got 4 sticks of poly in and would love any pointers you may have……

Thanks,
b3

 

[auntiesarahjayne]

not knowing the chemicals used to make Polystyrene moulding, or the toxicity of the glue used to join the frames; I would err in caution when doing conservation framing and use aluminum barrier tape on the interior of the frames.

 

[tedh]

Here's something I posted a while ago:

"The appropriate glue for plastics has been debated here for years. My choice is that yellow glue used for black drain pipes - the plumbers stuff. $5 a can. Perfect for the application. I've used it on hundreds if not over a thousand frames in the past ten years.

Apply it with that fuzzy ball on the end of the metal rod. Keep the glue at least 1/8th of an inch away from the top edge, or it will squeeze out and destroy the finish. I apply it only on one face, and only on one corner at a time. Apply a thin coat.

V-nail away from the outside corner - start at least 1/2 inch away from the outer corner. Only once have I had a frame crack - the molding was stored outside below freezing, and it was too brittle.

Practise on some offcuts - glue a joint, wait ten minutes, then break it. The broken corner will be really ugly - the plastic stays glued, and the glued part comes away from the molding.

The manufacturer I buy it from sells to the big framing factories in Toronto - the ones that supply hotels, big boxes and starving artists selling sofa sizes. They mix a glue concoction of acetone and the powder that goes into the manufacturing of the moldings. They don't waste their time buying pipe glue.

If you have any questions, PM me and I'll send you my phone number. I can tell you more about plastics based on making every mistake in the book with the stuff. I've also made a lot of money with it. "
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The only difference from when I posted that is that now I'm using dollar-store Q-tips to apply the glue - it makes the glue easier to apply.

 

[Prospero]

Interesting point about the frame affecting the artwork in a conservation context. I would say that polystyrene is no more harmful than wood. In some cases less so. In any case, you can't really claim to have framed paper-based art to conservation standard if the frame is in close proximity to the edges of the art.
But the question arises as to where the frame ends and the outside world begins. Whatever level of conservation you employ comes to virtually nothing if the frame is hung on a damp wall.

I used to work at a plastics factory. Making all manner of components including medical stuff. Styrene is relatively innocuous. Think of all those little plastic knives and forks. They are styrene. The nastier varieties when it comes to offgassing are nylons and acetals.