Pointers for working with High Gloss Black Floater

Create a Post
M

mahaha

True Grumbler
Joined
Apr 6, 2010
Posts
73
Loc
San Francisco, Ca
Business
Hanson Digital
Oh ye framing gurus, i'm hoping for some tips on working with High Gloss Black - other than don't ;-)

The box isn't in yet so I haven't really worked with this material yet, this is all preemptive neurosis, ha ha.

I searched the forums and there are lots of tips about touching up miters with nail polish, i'm sure I'll be taking advantage of that one.

We're creating floaters with Larson #322450 it's a 2 1/2" tall gloss black floater and I'm scared to death with how to cut these miters without scratching the surface of the moulding. The sample I have, was pretty clean and I literally just wiped a finger across the surface only to see a bunch of tiny scratches to appear.

What do you guys recommend when cutting these miters to protect the surface while cutting and working with the moulding? Perhaps a plastic protective film?

I feel like I need to get some of this film anyways to protect the frame after it's joined and fitted. Let me know if there are any products you like. I've done a search and have found glass protective films in a 3" roll.

I was thinking maybe putting felt on our miter saw fence, not sure if that will create more vibration or not. I doubt our morso will cut this moulding without chipping.

Any tips are appreciated.

thanks much!
Mark

 
mahaha said:
I was thinking maybe putting felt on our miter saw fence, not sure if that will create more vibration or not. I doubt our morso will cut this moulding without chipping.
Click to expand...
A felt pad can contain contamination of particles that will scratch the surface.

Not knowing the condition of how you maintain your "hollow ground" chopper blades and the specific moulding quality, I can only suggest that they have a limited time of being "very sharp". There is also the issue of taking small cuts at the very end of the cutting process to reduce the tendency for "rip out and chipping".
A few test cuts from some short pieces is definitely recommended.
 
JFeig said:
A felt pad can contain contamination of particles that will scratch the surface.

Not knowing the condition of how you maintain your "hollow ground" chopper blades and the specific moulding quality, I can only suggest that they have a limited time of being "very sharp". There is also the issue of taking small cuts at the very end of the cutting process to reduce the tendency for "rip out and chipping".
A few test cuts from some short pieces is definitely recommended.
Click to expand...
fair point and after the first miter saw cut or two, i'm sure the saw dust will attach itself to the felt anyways and create a catastrophe anyways.

thanks and yes to the testing for sure. I have a couple extra sticks to mess around with before diving in.
 
I've not used this profile in particular, but some of LJs more easily scratched finishes, like the Harlow line with the plastic mirror finish, have a protective plastic film on them already. The corner sample would not.
The film can remain on the frame until the final fitting process, and with the floater you would only have to remove enough on the lip to attach it to the stretchers.
Wait and see. If no plastic wrap, I would be hesitant to add one, especially one with solvent based adhesives on them. The products designed for glass, like Glass-skin, which is designed to keep the shards from doing damage should the glass break in shipping, would probably be too aggressive for lacquer.
 
In addition to what the others said, I do two more things for high gloss black mouldings.

1. Wear cotton gloves at all times when working with the moulding.
2. In addition to my carpeted finish table, I lay down a large piece of fleece to further protect it. Its cheap and worth the investment and available from your local craft/fabric store or online. https://www.amazon.com/Charcoal-Gra...qid=1730388531&sprefix=fleece,aps,113&sr=8-28
 
I came to mention the plastic film that comes on LJs Bauhaus line, but Wally beat me to it.
Ditto as well to Larry's cotton gloves advice for once it's unfilmed.
The last bit I would add, is when I'm working with a really soft/delicate finish and I'm about to put it in a clamp, sometimes it will emboss the edge, so I will put a clean bit of matboard between the outer edge and the metal clamp to soften the bite.
 
Mary Beth van der Horst said:
The last bit I would add, is when I'm working with a really soft/delicate finish and I'm about to put it in a clamp, sometimes it will emboss the edge, so I will put a clean bit of matboard between the outer edge and the metal clamp to soften the bite.
Click to expand...
Agreed, except I do this for all mouldings that I glue and clamp, not just the ones with fragile finishes.
 
Hi Everyone,
I am so sorry to disappear. I had clicked watch this thread for replies and the only notification that I received was from JFeig.

Anyways, all good pointers that I wish I knew were thrown out. And it was such a push to get this job done, I've been "down in it" so to speak.

So here is what I did in case this helps anyone.

The material didn't come with a plastic mask on it unfortunately. It was double wrapped though with a thicker material that I'm used to from them. And all in all, the box I got so far has been pretty good.

My tip for anyone needing such a thing is using this:

Glass Protection Tape - 3" x 200' S-19222 - Uline

Uline stocks over 42,000 shipping boxes, packing materials, warehouse supplies, material handling and more. Same day shipping for cardboard boxes, plastic bags, janitorial, retail and shipping supplies.
www.uline.com www.uline.com

It's a glass protection film and it comes in a 3" roll. We already use this material in wider form to put back over acrylic when we are facemounting.

I unwrapped the moulding, then instantly put the tape on and cut the miters. Then I took it to the hoffman to do the routing.

Then removed the tape, cleaned up any edges i needed to and joined. It joined really well.

100% Isopropyl and a lint free rag cleans it really well.

The only thing I wish I had or could figure out is how to put the glass protection tape on smoothly. A small grip.

@Larry Peterson thanks for the tip on the fleece material. I just used bath towels when I was screwing in the strainers ha ha.

And yes to the gloves. Looking at this moulding produces finger prints sheesh...

thanks again everyone!
Mark
 
Hi all,
Just a follow up on this gloss moulding from Larson. About 25 frames in, it's pretty easy to put small surface scratches in the finish if you're not careful. What I found though is it buffs pretty nicely with a car buffer and some polishing compound. Just in case someone else gets in a jam... The body shop days came to the rescue!

Happy new year everyone!
Mark
 
Create a Post
Back
Top