Question Pocket Hole Jig

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I like mine.
 
I have the standard size Kreg pocket cutter and an older Porter Cable portable pocket cutter (no longer made). The Jig you are looking at is used in conjunction with the standard Kreg system, I don't believe it is a stand alone product.
The standard system will work in woods 1/2" thick and thicker and are fine for strainers.
The only drawback is that the drill bits are proprietary and not all that easy to sharpen (but it can be done).
The standard setup comes with a vaccuum attachment which works well with my small Oreck or Dirt Devil hand held vac. Before we started using the vacs, we had to move the operation outside because of the wood chips getting everywhere.

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The photo shows the jig I have. The micro jig replaces the guide being used in this instance (where the drill bit enters the bit guide).

I have also found that using N0.6 X 1" and 6X1 1/4" fine thread sheet rock screws work just fine. Unless you are making hardwood furniture with this, I don't think the pocket screws are necessary.

We use strainers on all work done for the local museum regardless of the size. It makes it so much easier for them to access the art if they need to, and with the relatively narrow frames they prefer, it provides a good surface for the hanging hardware.
 
That's what we use for strainers. Using a shim you can do 3/8" thick material, or I understand they make a micro one that will do 3/8 (or maybe 1/4"?).

We use the "proper" pocket hole screws, as precise depth control is critical when your moulding only has a 5/16 to 3/8" wall thickness.
 
The Micro Guide is what the OP was inquiring about. From what I can make of it on line, its advantage is allowing closer proximity between 2 holes (2 in a piece of 1/2" x 1" stock for exampple).
I don't see a great advantage for normal framing applications, and since you have to have the standard jig anyway, would suggest the OP get that and see if it doesn't serve the purpose before buying the additional Micro Guide.

Dave, with that thin of a side I would use the more accurate screws too, most of what I'm sinking screws into is 1/2" or more.
 
I also have the standard Kreg jig. I mounted mine to the middle of a 12" x 48" piece of MDF and built up supports on either end so that I have to worry about the board not being flat in the jig when running strainer though it.
 
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