Plexi-glass (or whatever)....help!

FrameItEtc

CGF, Certified Grumble Framer
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Jan 6, 1999
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Hi. A customer (artist) just left my shop and asked if i could start framing using ONLY plexi-glass (or substitute). I told her i would find out more about it. Serveral years ago, i started offering plexi-glass and HATED :eek: the stuff. When the protective film was removed, it was like a super vacuum :mad: cleaner....it would collect dust and dust and dust. I purchased a "static brush"... it helped, but was nothing to get excited about. Qusestion: 1. Do you use plexi-glass or something similar to it? If so, what is the name of it and where do you buy it? 2. How do yo get the "super vacuum cleaner" (lol) to stop working? What type of "static brush do you use? 3. Any :confused: suggestions???

Thanks... ajhohen
 
ajh,

I've used two kinds of plastic glazing in my shop. The first of these was Lucite or similar from Home Depot. My experience was pretty much as you describe. I swore I'd never again glaze anything with plastic.

More recently, I framed 17 very large matted prints with Cyro Acrylite. I chose the OP-3 with the UV filter, since the prints are valuable and hanging under flourescent lighting.

I found this stuff easier to work with than glass. I cut it with my Fletcher 3000 wall cutter. The cover sheets removed fairly easily and I did NO CLEANING WHATSOEVER. This stuff cost a lot more than the Lucite, but was worth every penny. I got it from Larson-Juhl, but there must be a plastic supply place in your neck of the woods that carries it.

To help keep the dust and static down, I used (and continue to use) a commercial air cleaner in my shop. In the winter when it's very dry here, I run a humidifier. I have an anti-static brush from United, but I never used it on the Acrylite.

Good luck. I've become a born-again plastic glazer.
 
Cyro is also what I use. I get it from my local plexiglas supplier. I mainly use it on the larger frames so they cut it for me. They have a cleaner that cuts way down on the static. I don't know the name of it off the top of my head, but I'll check on it when I get back to the shop. I probably wouldn't need to clean it either, but there's just this habit thing that kicks in!

Betty
 
I also use cyro acrylite. I use an anti-static cleaner, can't remember the name, but I read an article in the Framing Business News, April issue, that said you can simply wipe down the acrylic with a damp cloth and eliminate the static without leaving any residue.It said that the static charge will not come back untill you rub it with a non-damp material. I haven't tried that but I will on the next plexi job..
 
I would love to learn of an anti-static anything that would really work.

I find I am using more and more plexi as glazing: large pieces; artwork for childrens' rooms; anything that is going to be mailed.

My current method is to roll one side of the paper coating off on a mailing tube, quickly flip the plexi over onto the art work, then roll off the paper from the other side.

When I think of it, I try to discourage the use of black suede mats on anything that is going to need acrylic glazing.

Kit
 
We learned from a pastel artist to thoroughly wet the surface of the acrylic with denatured alcohol and wipe dry. This really does eliminate static; I was surprised. Many pastel artists don't use fixative so that static charge would ruin their work. give it a try.
 
It should not be necessary to CLEAN the paper mask acrylic if you carefully remove the masking, as stated. If you are cleaning, we recommend Novus and we think it's the best on the market. To remove finger prints that are serious you can use a misture of 1/2 denatured alcohol and 1/2 water. I am NOT in favor of using the alcohol straight for several reasons. You can call me and I'll explain them. It's too long to post here. You can use simple mild soap and water to clean acrylic and then there's the static issue. The commercial cleaners are designed to reduce static, cleaning and rubbing the surface creates and promotes static. There are some other things that can be done depending on what you are framing. We think Cyro is the best product on the market for picture framing and they are the only manufacturers that make a line of products especially for the industry. Do I sound like a commercial? Well so be it, it's all true. I can even tell you why. Wanna know?

Give me a call,

Lois
Toll Free (877) 422-7954

877-4-acrylic
 
By the way, I could do such a commercial here, but I'll be good and save that for another time.

Courtney, you tell 'em.
 
Originally posted by naturephotographer:
We learned from a pastel artist to thoroughly wet the surface of the acrylic with denatured alcohol and wipe dry. This really does eliminate static; I was surprised. Many pastel artists don't use fixative so that static charge would ruin their work. give it a try.
Do you typically use acrylic glazing on pastels, naturephotographer? I'd love to be able to do that on some of those big-honker pastels, but would never dream of doing so. Maybe I'm missing the boat here. (If this turns into a big discussion, maybe it needs to be a new thread.)
 
Most of my pastel artists HAVE to use acrylic for show entries and have to find a way to minimize the static problems.
We usually use a double mat that is spaced at least once so that the acrylic is a little further away from the work and this also gives a pocket for the loose pastel to fall. I also wipe down the inside of the Cyro with a 3M cloth since the pastel has been known to adhere in funny patterns(possibly from the paper removal).

I have to stock acrylic since most of these artists have realised that the cheap plexi is just that. :eek:
 
I have used a variety of acrylic glazing products and until recently did no cleaning prior to installing it in the frame. This resulted in seasonal variables in difficulty from static/humidity issues.
I have started using a product called Brillianize on the acrylic before installation. It acts as an anti-static and glazes the surface of the acrylic making it much easier to work with.
The question is whether or not the glazing residue has any negative indicator in c/p application. Feedback from Cyro or Preservator would be appreciated.
 
It doesn't matter what you do to plexi to reduce the static before you put it in the frame. Plexi will always generate static and eventually attract the pastel dust from the art. Forget about using it on pastels no matter the size. On the really big ones, just use double weight glass and a heavy enough frame to support the weight. The largest pastels I frame are 50 by 71 and I use a 1/2" foamcore spacer between the art and the mat that helps reduce the amount of dust attracted to the glass. Always clean plexi both sides with an anti-static plexi cleaner. Just the act of peeling the paper off will attract stuff. Why take the chance?
 
As the production paper is removed from acrylic
sheet, the removal process creates a static charge. Removing tape from glass will do the same
thing. The simplest and safest way to clean it
is with a damp, well-washed chamoix or wash leather. The skin removes the dust and the water
kills the charge. Commercial anti-static solutions
work by drawing moisture from the air and thus,
will only work if a film of the solution has been
left on the surface. Not knowing exactly what is
in them makes leaving them on the surface a bit
risky. The properly washed acrylic will not have
a charge until something dry is brushed across
its surface, but it should not be used with friable materials such as pastel.

Hugh
 
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