For Sale: PIstorius double-miter saw -good condition: $450 obo

[Sierra FrameWorks]

Selling my old faithful Pistoriius MN100 double-miter frame saw. Retired and can't justify the room this good ol' workhorse takes up in the garage! Pistorius machines are built to last. Extra heavy duty cast iron and steel construction throughout. Beautiful, precision miters. These quality machines are designed and
constructed to withstand continuous high speed production and are built with the finest
craftsmanship and components available. These machines are virtually maintenance free.

Comes with two 10” blades, oil spray system(for cutting aluminum) and measuring bed(for fast & accurate sizing). The saw is working and is in good condition. It is wired for 220v but will also run on
110v.

I can deliver within a 2-3 hr. drive from 95667(Placerville, CA) for a reasonable fee based on distance. If you opt to pick-up bring your strong buddy. It weighs ~600lbs.

Call or text Ken at 530-626-5530

 

[Huckleberry]

I am replying because you mentioned cutting aluminum and maybe you would pass on some wisdom? For cutting metal frames I used to just change bIades and use water and anti-rust mix in the sprayer system but had my Pistorius taken apart and cleaned up recently as well as motors cleaned and serviced. There was lots of caked up aluminum in there and the mechanic said he didn't think I should cut metal on it. (I'm not sure what people are using to chop metal frames and I'm curious. I worked in a shop once which had small metal choppers in the back room but got rid of them to be mass-produced at a warehouse.)
I still have a drag or dwell problem on the Pistorius left side at the point of the blade returning (up.)
That is shown by a burnt end or chunked-out edge on softer wood. Has anyone successfully remedied this problem?
Thank you,
Huckleberry.

 

[alacrity8]

I am replying because you mentioned cutting aluminum and maybe you would pass on some wisdom? For cutting metal frames I used to just change bIades and use water and anti-rust mix in the sprayer system but had my Pistorius taken apart and cleaned up recently as well as motors cleaned and serviced. There was lots of caked up aluminum in there and the mechanic said he didn't think I should cut metal on it. (I'm not sure what people are using to chop metal frames and I'm curious. I worked in a shop once which had small metal choppers in the back room but got rid of them to be mass-produced at a warehouse.)
I still have a drag or dwell problem on the Pistorius left side at the point of the blade returning (up.)
That is shown by a burnt end or chunked-out edge on softer wood. Has anyone successfully remedied this problem?
Thank you,
Huckleberry.

We have one Pistorious dedicated to Wood, and one dedicated to aluminum.
This is to avoid cutting the blades.
We had planned on installing a lubricating system on the Aluminum Saw, but we were told it might not be necessary with the proper blades.
5 years on, and no problems. Without the oil, the Aluminum isn't caking on the inside of the saw.
This is with cutting at most 20 frames in an hour once a week.

 

[framah]

Never used the lubricator on my machine.

I use carbide blades and they cut just fine.

 

[Huckleberry]

Never used the lubricator on my machine.

I use carbide blades and they cut just fine.

Thank you, so you use the same machine for wood AND for metal? I am trying to find an alternative to having aluminum shavings in my newly overhauled old Pistorius.
Huckleberry.

 

[JFeig]

Use a vacuum cleaner with a crevice tool to get into those tight spots..

 

[framah]

Thank you, so you use the same machine for wood AND for metal? I am trying to find an alternative to having aluminum shavings in my newly overhauled old Pistorius.
Huckleberry.

Yes, I do. i have carbide blades and they work fine for both.

 

[wpfay]

Yes, I do. i have carbide blades and they work fine for both.

There are three different tooth configurations and designs. One each for: cutting non-ferrous metal, cutting wood, and what is referred to as a combination wood/metal blade.

My experience is different than Framah's. Dedicated blades do a much better job than combo blades, and wood cutting blades dull quickly cutting metal, whereas metal cutting blades generate more friction, often burning the miter of a wood moulding. This has to do with the rake of the tooth as well as the size and frequency of the gullets in the blade.

I have 2 saw setups. A Phaedra bench with a Makita saw for cutting metal (I use a beeswax stick for lubricating the blade) and Brevetti Prisma Maxi for wood.
I do use the Phaedra setup for occasional multi sided frames, including irregular quadrilaterals, but I always change out the metal cutting blade for a wood cutting one.
All blades are serviced by Quinn Saw.