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J

Jana

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Joined
Aug 12, 2000
Posts
2,396
Loc
Mansfield, Ohio
Does anyone know of a source for bulk stainless steel straight pins for use on needlework? I can get small packs at JoAnn fabrics, but we go through them too fast.

Also, do the nickel-plated pins rust over time? Thanks.
 
You should try lacing, then you won't have any problems with pins corroding and causing damage. Its much easier to get the lines straight too!
 
I am converted thanks to you Osgood, lacing is certainly easier and allows for adjustments to be made quite simply, even after the final tensioning has been applied.
Corrections using the pinning method seemed to create a trickle along effect which was more time consuming to correct.


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"Thinking INSIDE the Square"
 
Yeah, we're working on perfecting the lacing method, too, but my coworker prefers pins. She achieves super straight grain, and lacing always seems to shift a bit.

Still looking for a source for pins!
 
The stainless steel pin source is:
American & Eiford
1-800-778-3083
Catalogue # MR-33120
Superfine stainless steel 1 1/16"length
The great thing about stainless steel pins is that you just leave them in...and nothing happens.
The other ones will eventually rust and corrode anything they touch. Good pinning!
 
I recently took apart a cross stitch that we framed 19 years ago to change the mats. It had been stretched with nickel plated steel pins (not Stainless). There was no corrosion at all - it was completely clean. And it had hung beside a well used shower in a bathroom all those years!
 
We use nickel-plated brass, too. These pins are considerably less expensive than stainless steel, but will never rust or corrode.

Our source is Singer Cutters Exchange Division, 615-213-0880.

Today I placed an order for their #17FB, which costs $39.45 for a 5lb. box. That's a lot of pins -- roughly a two-year supply for our little frame shop; we pin three or four cross stitches a week.

HOWEVER, I was told that most of their nickel-plated brass pins are being discontinued! They have two more boxes left...call *now*.
 
We use nickel-plated brass, too. These pins are considerably less expensive than stainless steel, but will never rust or corrode.

Our source is Singer Cutters Exchange Division, 615-213-0880.

Today I placed an order for their #17FB, which costs $39.45 for a 5lb. box. That's a lot of pins -- roughly a two-year supply for our little frame shop; we pin three or four cross stitches a week.

HOWEVER, I was told that most of their nickel-plated brass pins are being discontinued! They have two more boxes left...call *now*.
 
1 1/16" seems so looooong to me. I prefer 1/2" sequin pins from Mangleson's.

While we're on the subject (more or less), I always pin the four corners first, then go back and do the middles. Everyone else I've talked to pins - or laces - the middles first. What's the majority opinion? Kit

[This message has been edited by Kit aka emrr (edited April 20, 2001).]
 
So what is expensive? I just bought 10,000 stainless steel pins for $36.00. Thats just 36 cents for 100 pins. Doesn't your archival needlework framing deserve this?
 
I guess we all have our own preferences and I cannot be convinced that pinning is better than lacing.
As a matter of interest what do you 'pinners' stick your pins into? (backing?)

Someone said that lacing always shifts. No way does it shift if it is tensioned correctly, unless the 'lacer' shifts it using a rubber type glove.

Another advantage that lacing has is that it always keeps some tension on the piece even if the needlework fabric relaxes.
I have seen several pieces of needlework, framed many years ago, (using staples) that have relaxed and become wavy. Stapling and pinning both rely on the tension in the needlework fabric itself remaining there. Lacing eliminates this risk as the tension is in the threads and extra material sewn on as well.
 
The shop I work at only uses pins; frankly I've never seen lacing, but it sounds like a good option. *sigh of longing*

Osgood, we pin into acid-free foamcore...everyone I know, Janet, pins into the middle of all four sides first. Don't know why, really--that was the way I was shown to do it. LOL I pin the four "middles" first, and then pop it into the frame to make sure it's completely square....and can I just say that I much prefer ragged edges on needle-art than straight ones. *grin* The only time I enjoy stretching is when I feel like sitting down; I'll pull up a chair in the back, and settle in with my pins and stitchery.

It's the only framing I don't stand for.
wink.gif


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I don't care what color your sofa is.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Audrey Levins:

Osgood, we pin into acid-free foamcore...
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
I used to use acid free foamcore, but gave up using it some time back when it was pointed out that the foam itself might be a problem with outgassing. Have you noticed when you open a new box of foamboard that the fumes are very strong? It can't be good for artwork!

*** I started out with nothing.
I still have most of it left. ***
 
Audrey,
I think if you'll look back at the beginning of the thread, it was posted by JANA (not JANET). I was also under the impression that y'all use regular foam board in your shop for needleart.
Janet

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How cheap do you want it to look?
 
Janet--

Sorry!
smile.gif
You're always a source of info on needle-art, so I think I just assumed you were the one who posted that. LOL (Sorry, Jana, too!)

And how on earth did you get the idea we use regular foamboard? LOL I never even knew I mentioned it. No, we use the acid-free kind, although Osgood's point about the foam itself is thought-provoking. We do carry regular foamboard, but we don't use it for stretching stitchery. Mainly for dry-mounts; I consider acid-free foamboard on a dry-mount a massive waste of money....

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I don't care what color your sofa is.
 
I don't understand why you would think that acid free faom-core would be a waste of money. When you do dry-mounts, don't you use archival tissue? Why would you use a acidic board? I have seen the acid burn go through the tissue and ruin a poster, why risk it?

I don't even carry the regular foam core in my shop. (Nor any sticky-board.)

I pin stitchery on Acid-free foam core, or sometimes I will temporarly pin on to acid free mat board and then lace. (I know... it may seem to take longer, but I pin very fast, and if I am going to lace, I don't do the complete pinning job... just enough to hold it still.)

Good O'l Sue
 
Maybe I didn't learn to lace properly. I like the look I get with pins better. Of course we get about as many x-stitch in a year as Jim gets in a week. Most of the ones I have framed have been my own. It's not a popular pastime here.

While we're on this - what do you all feel about batting?
 
Batting- it's a Love/Hate relationship.

I love to hate it. But seriously, if the stitchery has a Million knots on the back, i will use it. But I hate to use it with a mat, as the slightest over-cut will be pushed open.

Practice the lacing... it's worth the time and effort.


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Sue May :)
"You want it when?!?!?"
 
Susan,

I don't really see the point of using acid-free foamcore on a drymount because most of the time a drymount is used for what I call "disposable" framing, i.e., posters, prints, etc. When someone wants a poster of Britney Spears dry-mounted, I fail to see the point of archivally framing it unless the customer requests it; they're going to be tired of Britney long before the poster becomes chemically damaged. It's cheaper for them to drymount it on regular foamcore, and just as effective.

And honestly I don't have a whole lot of call for dry-mounting something archivally, anyway; if you want to preserve it, why would you drymount it to begin with? I never recommend a drymount for anything of real value. The only difference between archival and non-archival drymounting is that one is reversible; if you eventually want to reverse it, why would you bother at all?

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I don't care what color your sofa is.
 
Audrey, You have a good point there, but do you think that there is really a large enough price difference between regular and Acid-free Foam core? Our prices were so close, that I stopped carrying the regular foam core.

Also, I don't make the decision about whether or not a poster is disposable. I let my customer decide that. If it is truly disposable, they often ask for a dry-mount and hang without a frame.

Sue
 
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