I know that some of you prefer to use lacing for mounting stitcheries, but I would like some feedback from those of you who use pins.
Pins, Madam...
- Thread starter Susan May
- Start date
Kit
SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
I voted for the 3/4" length, but only because the 1/2" sequin pins that I really like weren't one of the choices.
Saltpeter.
Kit
Saltpeter.
Kit
SCFramer527
CGF, Certified Grumble Framer
Looks like most folks don't realize you asked us to "Pick 2" for question #3, or they are only interested in one of the 3 types described.
Framerguy
PFG, Picture Framing God
OK, this may seem dumb on the surface but, if you pull out the pins after you spent all that time stretching and lining up the "needleart" (I am assuming that we are talking about pinning "needleart" vs. lacing "needleart), uh, ................. where was I, ........ oh, if you pull out the pins, what the heck is holding the "needleart" on the board???
Are you doing a "dry run" with the pins and then lacing the fabric onto the board prior to pulling out the pins or just what have I missed here?
Oh, and just what is a "fern pin"? I know the obvious answer but there has to be another more sensible answer out there somewhere.
Framerguy
P.S. And where was the "tacky glue" choice??
Are you doing a "dry run" with the pins and then lacing the fabric onto the board prior to pulling out the pins or just what have I missed here?
Oh, and just what is a "fern pin"? I know the obvious answer but there has to be another more sensible answer out there somewhere.
Framerguy
P.S. And where was the "tacky glue" choice??
Tom, a Fern Pin is a double prong pin used in floral aranging. It has an "S" shape on the flat end, and two prongs that are normally about 2" long. They are used to pin on both sides of stems, and hold the stem in the middle.
Sorry about missing the Tacky glue, but this is a question about pins.
As for keeping the pins in, or removing them... some people use the pins to hold the fabric while lacing. (Not me.)
Sorry about missing the Tacky glue, but this is a question about pins.
As for keeping the pins in, or removing them... some people use the pins to hold the fabric while lacing. (Not me.)
oh... Thanks Kit. 
Tom ,not that I do either (Pin or remove them) but I do use a mounting system that incorporates fome board and cutting a counter sunk window on which the needleart is stretched and reinserted that is taut enough to hold most fabrics even if the needles are removed(I first saw this demonstrated by Kay Evans). The only difficulty is that they(the pins) must be placed in the face of the work ,preferably in the stitching (so as to conceal any holes streched in the fabric by the pins).If this is done then they can indeed be removed and the fabric will remain resonably taut and can be at a safer distance from any wood moulding (as much as 1/4 inch less than the mat width).However if they are inserted in the edge of the center board and then reinstalled back in the window you can't even see them much less remove them.
But then as I said I don't do either so you know what my opinion is worth.LOL
BUDDY
But then as I said I don't do either so you know what my opinion is worth.LOL
BUDDY
Framerguy
PFG, Picture Framing God
Buddy,
That happens to be the procedure that I have been using since I switched to stainless steel pins to mount needleart. I countersink the mounted fabric into the surrounding mat but I edge pin the fabric onto the foamcore so that the heads are concealed in the kerf of the inlay.
I guess there are good and bad points to every type of mounting that we use in framing so I am not going to debate the benefits of one over the other. It all boils down to what works best for each framer as long as it doesn't do harm to the object being mounted.
Framerguy
That happens to be the procedure that I have been using since I switched to stainless steel pins to mount needleart. I countersink the mounted fabric into the surrounding mat but I edge pin the fabric onto the foamcore so that the heads are concealed in the kerf of the inlay.
I guess there are good and bad points to every type of mounting that we use in framing so I am not going to debate the benefits of one over the other. It all boils down to what works best for each framer as long as it doesn't do harm to the object being mounted.
Framerguy
Rick Bergeron - CPF
SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
We choose nickel plated brass over stainless pins because I have seen too much stainless steel rust over the years. I have seen 304 stainless rust in a matter of days when in a saltwater environment. The best example that I have of stainless steel rusting is the grill and burner in my barbque pit. They advertise the heck out of the parts being stainless, but I was changing out rusted burners every year and grills every other year.
Kathleen buys nickel plated, brass straight pins by the pound and nickel plated, brass T pins by the half pound.
I also agree with Framerguy's point...
[ 01-09-2004, 03:06 PM: Message edited by: Rick Bergeron - CPF ]
Kathleen buys nickel plated, brass straight pins by the pound and nickel plated, brass T pins by the half pound.
I also agree with Framerguy's point...
[ 01-09-2004, 03:06 PM: Message edited by: Rick Bergeron - CPF ]
Rebecca
SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
I didn't vote because the heads on the pins I like aren't listed. Then again they wouldn't be as I think I'm the only one who uses the black lacquer pins. They have a nice little round head, dirty brown/yellow color that blends in nicely with old linen.
Like others, I don't use stainless pins after I saw how well they rusted. I think it is possible to make a non-rusting stainless (like my good kitchen knives), but most of the stainless alloys do rust, especially if they have a scratch or nick in them.
Rebecca
Like others, I don't use stainless pins after I saw how well they rusted. I think it is possible to make a non-rusting stainless (like my good kitchen knives), but most of the stainless alloys do rust, especially if they have a scratch or nick in them.
Rebecca