Perfect Mount Questions

Phoneguy

MGF, Master Grumble Framer
Joined
Dec 1, 2004
Posts
678
Loc
New Westminster, B.C. Canada
OK, I am considering that I should be trying to mount some of the things that up to now I have hinged, photos, posters etc. I do not have a heat press (and really don't have a lot of extra room for one) so I am thinking of the perfect mount system.

Crescent sells Perfect Mount on boards and by the roll. I am assuming the roll is more economical. I have never actually used it. How does it work? Besides the raw materials what else would I need? Some kind of roller (brayer) to apply pressure? Is there a special applicator or can I just pull a length off of the roll and apply by hand? Any pointers or experiences would be appreciated!

On another (related) tack. When you mount something on a board, is it common practice to cut the board to the size of the frame and try to line up the image precisely. Does one trim the board to the edge of the image and then suspend it in the frame, perhaps to a back board (I guess hinging it)? I imagine if you were to cut the mount board oversize and then square up to the image after mounting that would be the plan? I have V Kistlers series of books, the one on mounting does not seem to cover this.

Thanks
James
 
Hey John
Humour like that we need you on the UK forum.
Please join us as well
 
Originally posted by Merlin Framers:
Hey John
Humour like that we need you on the UK forum.
Please join us as well
I didn't know we had one - please paste details, I'll google it meantime, but didn't find anything last time I tried it!
 
Originally posted by RoboFramer:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Phoneguy Canuck:
Besides the raw materials what else would I need?
Hair restorer and valium - good luck! </font>[/QUOTE]I still have a full head of hair, most of it is brown, couple of strays been creeping in the last couple of years. As to the valium, Many people wonder if I am dead already, pretty even keel until I get really cranky, (I save it up for a really good one I guess)..

If there was more to the statement than just humor, I didn't get it!

Thanks tho
James
 
James,

This may not help you but here's what I've been doing...sorry for the long-winded answer.


I have been using the Perfect Mount on boards (1x and 3x) and foam core but have not tried the roll yet. For the most part, it has been ok for me but I will forewarn you not to try it with newspaper. That did not work well and I ended up frantically calling the newspaper trying to find another copy of this issue. This probably applies to any other thin, fragile paper since the adhesive is so sticky. Once it's on, it's on and you've got to get it right the first time. They say it's repositionable but I've never been able to reposition anything on it.

When I use Perfect Mount Foam Core, here's the steps I follow:
- cut the board to the size of the frame
- position the image on the board according to the mat opening and mark the corners where it will go
- use my mat cutter to cut an opening in the cover paper by setting the blade just deep enough to cut the paper but not cut any of the foam core
- peel off the cover paper (rolling it around a mailing tube and pulling it off a little at a time makes it easier to position the print to fit in the opening you've made)
- apply the print (or whatever) by laying the cover paper I peeled off over the image and using a brayer (roller) to roll out any air bubbles from the middle out

The problem I have with this method is that the cover paper is still there around the print with all the instructions/writing on it. It drives me crazy and I can't think of a better way to do it b/c I prefer not to attach the mat to the Perfect Mount.

With the thinner board, you could probably do the way you mentioned of cutting it down to the size of the print and then hinging it but this seems a little redundant. You may as well just hinge the print, right?


I would like to try the roll version but haven't located a convenient place to buy it from or instructions on how it works. I think it would alleviate the problem I mentioned above b/c you would just cut the Perfect Mount to the size of the print and position your print on whatever backing board (cut to the size of the frame) you're using and attach with the Perfect Mount.

Hopefully, others have some more suggestions. If you have success after trying, please post it so I can try your method. Good luck! :D
 
James, I use Perfect Mount on a few items where other mounting options aren't so suitable.

I would recommend purchasing the boards, rather than the roll. Getting the film down very smoothly and uniformly can be tricky.

I buy the x type boards, rather than the foam boards. I have found that the film is often poorly applied to the foam. In addition, if you dent the foam, you aren't going to get the picture off of it easily. I feel that it is better to use the stiffer board, and then back with foam.

Read the directions and practice on some posters and photos before using Perfect Mount on a customers art. It can be very aggessively tacky on some types of items. The bond sets up with time, so you have to plan to have at least 24 hours for the item to set before framing. Also be aware that the tissue can separate from the paper backing surface due to certain conditions.

If you are mounting an item that doesn't have a mat, cut the board to the size of the frame.
If you have a mat, mount on a bigger board, then place the mat on after mounting and trim to fit.

Be sure and put that release paper back on top of the item before you apply pressure. You can use a roller or brayer, or a cold vacuum press. I have found that some items will show pressure marks from a roller applied directly to the release paper, so you can put a piece of matboard over it and apply pressure that way. If you are mounting to a bigger board (using a mat, for instance) be sure to put the release paper over the entire board surface before putting it in the press or rolling over it, including the part to be covered with the mat.

When I have a mat around an item, I will usually cut an opening in the release paper that exposes the item, but keeps the mat from sticking to the board - just in case someone wants to change the mat at some future time.

Hope this helps.
 
Originally posted by Phoneguy Canuck:
If there was more to the statement than just humor, I didn't get it!
We do not like doing things that are not reversible. Most dry mounting methods, you get just ONE chance. There is a topic running currently about a framer looking for a replacement print that has been ruined, and that was in a press.

Dry mounting by hand is a dodgy practice in my eyes - nay - from my experience!

Once more than the very edge of that print hits the board it is no longer in its 'original condition' and from then on it's down to you, down to you to trap no air, down to you to make sure their are no foreign bodies under there - even the tiniest becomes Everest, down to you to make sure the print is postioned right and doesn't go over the edge of the board, down to you to realise that any existing creases may be simply emphasised

It has took me eleven years to take on dry mounting, and I still would not have were it not for 'artcare restore' I have written off 25 jumbo sheets of the stuff practicing before I dare tackle any customers' work. If I never wreck a customer's print (etc) I will be defying the laws of average, even if artcare restore is reversible, heat isn't, one day I might apply too much of it to the wrong surface, or just forget to insert the right type of release whotsit or foam thingy.

So you and I are the same, both rookies on the sticking down process. My mistakes, I hope, will be reversible, will yours?

I used to have grey hair - I'm JUST starting to go brown!
 
I use the roll material every once in a while. I just cut off a length and put it on a foamcore board. It comes with instructions and a squeege.

Whether using roll or sticky board, I usually make the board larger than the piece I'm working with so I don't have to be so careful to get it straight - then trim after finished.

I've used the roll material with newspaper articles on black foamcore with no problems.
 
Whenever I mount anything, whether it's perfect mount, regular heat mount or hinging, I always mount to a board larger than the frame size. I think it is MUCH easier to then lay the mat on top and center it and square it to the print and then cut to frame size.

The procedure I use when using perfect mount is as follows:

I pull the release paper off and lay it back on the mount board exposing a few inches on the left side.

I brush of the bottom of the print to be sure there isn't any dirt and then lay it on the release paper with an inch or two on the bare mount board.

Then I lay another release paper on top of the print.

Then I smoothly press that inch or so of the print onto the mount board with my flat hand sliding over the top release paper from edge to edge.

I pull the bottom release paper to the right to reveal a couple more inches of the perfect mount and then smoothly press the print onto the perfect mount sliding my hand back and forth starting from where it is already stuck down.

After I get all the way across I use a squeegee over the top release paper to carefully put pressure on the print to stick it down to the perfect mount.

Then I pull the release paper back and check that everything is mounted down well. There may be a spot that's not quite stuck down, so I rub that spot with my finger over the release paper to apply pressure over that spot (this is especially true if the print originally had any creases. Applying pressure right over the crease makes it stick down).

Then I put the mounted print under weight overnight.

One tip-don't use a roller on perfect mount foamcore. You will put marks in the print as the foam compresses as you roll over it.
 
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