Pasting Prints down onto Mount Board

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Framing77

Grumbler in Training
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Mar 8, 2018
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Dublin
Hello,

I’ve been framing some prints from a gallery recently . A number of these prints (240gsm Satin paper) have revealed both major and minor creases.

I would usually top-hinge all prints.

As an experiment I pasted one of the more creased prints down onto mount board with a small amount of fish glue.

This did eliminate all of the visible creases, but pasting is not something I have ever considered or am familiar with as a practice.

- Is pasting prints to eliminate creasing / movement when hinged from the top common?

- What are your thoughts on this practice? What are the best-practice methods for pasting prints to mount board?

Appreciate any feedback, thanks.
 
In general, if there is any value to these prints, I would not permanently mount them. Fish glue does not sound like the right application for a paper print.
You can dry mount prints or use a glue that would be more appropriate. But if these prints have value, you have now lowered their value.

I usually hinge from the top. I don't know how you applied the hinges, which materials did you use? Which techniques? Did you use a mat?
 
Wet mounting is a thing and you might want to study up a bit on the traditional methods used by the Japanese.
I'm not sure what fish glue is, but animal protein glue is prone to oxidation and discoloration and is usually avoided.
The starch pastes used in hinging (rice, or wheat) and some synthetic starches (Klucel-G) are probably preferable.
The starch pastes are also used in the repair of paper borne art, especially notable with the vintage advertising posters of the late 19th century.
You would be wise to consult with a paper conservator before venturing too far into this.

Edit: Fish glue is used by luthiers in building and restoring stringed instruments.
 
Thanks for all the feedback. These are $35 dollar prints, easily replaceable. I wouldn't consider pasting down anything that wasn't easily and cheaply replacable. As mentioned the prints had been top-hinged, which with museum grade boards and following conservation level standards would be my usual process, but with this creasing recurring with prints for the shop of this gallery, I am looking for alternative methods. Fish glue was simply the most suitable glue to hand to test if it would eliminate the creases, I use it in other woodwork regularly.

Wpfay- Thanks for tips re starch glues, I shall have look into these, certainly a better match for paper.

Thanks again.
 
At that value, I would dry mount the pieces.
 
In general I find it best to attach the art minimally (hinging) or maximally (dry mounting).
Certain adhesives (Spray Mount) can mount unevenly, and eventually will have areas that start to release from the mounting board, while the are next to it will stay strongly attached. This will make repair (In 20 years when the print is no longer available) a pain in the butt.
I would stay away from experimentation with mounting, at least until you know what works, and what doesn't.
I would not try to hinge and mount. This can cause area where the hinge embosses the art, and it can cause areas where the adhesive under the hinge doesn't mount.
Often, after mounting the art, the mat is hinged to the backer.
 
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