Opinions Wanted painting on an old huge circular saw blade

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YooperFramer

YooperFramer

MGF, Master Grumble Framer
Joined
Jul 28, 2004
Posts
864
Loc
marquette michigan
SO, I have this huge, old, greasy circular saw that I need to paint a scene on.
First I need to clean it. With what?

second, I prime it. With what?

Third, I need to Paint it. With what (i was hoping acrylic)? It is to be hung outside on a tree all year round.

then varnish it...

Does anyone have any advise for me??
 
I think any mineral spirit will clean it. Primer for metal you can buy in any hardware store, then prime it with oil based Kilz, a couple coats and let it dry. Than paint it with oil based paint and not acrylic. Varnish
with synthetic varnish like Arkon P90 for example. Hope it helps.
 
I would remove as much rust as possible (wire brush, sand blast, naval jelly) and do a treatment of Ospho, http://www.ospho.com/ ,(Phosphoric acid) to stabilize whatever rust is left before priming the metal.
 
Acrylics will be perfect for painting on the blade after it is cleaned. As for a primer, go and check out your local craft store, if you can find someone who remembers how to do Folk Art, they should be able to help you find what you need. Rustolium (if that is spelled correctly) is a brand of spray paint, and they should have a good primer. It will help seal the blade against future rust. Acrylic paint will be fine on top of it. BUT, you must remove all the rust and oil first.


While oil paints can be hardy, Acrylics were designed to be durable outside. Stay away from the El-cheepo brands. If it's 99 cents a bottle, walk away. Ceramcoat acrylics are a good brand to use, if using bottle paint. They have been used for many years on things like bird houses and saw blades for outside decoration.

If you prefer to use tube paint, Grumbacher is a good brand.

Stay away from brands like Rose Art and other no name brands. They don't have the pigment content needed for coverage, and long lasting color.

Make sure that the varnish you use is designed for outside use. It can be a spray on or a brush on. If you use a spray for the varnish or the primer, remember to use a few light coats. Not one heavy one.

Good luck.
 
Ask Nic (Blackiris) how she did it - she kvetched her way through painting a sawblade a while back as I recall. Turned out real good, though, for a sawblade.....:shutup:
 
Acrylics... glazed? Acrylics are permanant. They don't actually NEED a sealer, but most sealers make the surface easier to clean. Especially if the sealer is a semigloss, or a gloss.

I'm not even sure why anyone would use a glaze, unless they really like a high gloss. (Unless you are using the term glaze to mean seal.)
 
If it's really greasy, get a can of brake parts cleaner from an auto parts store for the first cleaning step.
Wear protective gloves or try not to get it on your hands. It evaporates very quickly and can really dry skin.
You could also use acetone but the same precaution about gloves and evaporation applies.
Either one will remove any grease or oil.
 
I believe the term "Glazed" was used in the industry specific context of protective sheeting such as glass or acrylic rather than the more common consumer context such as a coating on doughnuts.
 
:popc:So predictable.
That would be $297 an hour. I'll take that anytime!:cool:
 
I always clearcoat acrylics. It seals the surface and makes it easier to clean. indoors pieces get either a high gloss (decoart triple thick) or a flat ( testors model master acryl flat),or a combo when relivant to the item. Paintings on watercolor paper or illustration board are sprayed with a quick dry aerosol varnish. Outdoors, a gloss spraycoat or brush on polyurethane. I did an entire school worth of murals thus: basecoat,flat acrylic housepaint, details and subjects,Ceramcoat and Decoart acrylics(they go Really much further than you'd think!)... topcoat....Minwax polyurethane brush on..Yes, the oil based stuff in the silver can! works wonderfully. L
 
If it's rusty my advice is to pass up the job.

Our sign is made of an old circular saw blade (54" diameter). We sandblasted it, applied rust converter, and then primed and painted with automotive paint. Three years later the rust is coming through pretty noticeably. MAYBE if we had taken the teeth out we would have had better luck, as that is the place the rust seems to be coming from, but I won't do it again. If we want a saw blade look-alike we'll have one CNC'd out of sign board or aluminum.
 
Besides every other concern, as the temperature changes out-of-doors, and as the sun hits the blade and heats it up quickly, the metal of the blade is going to expand and/or contract very differently from the primer and paint layers, which will cause some adhesion problems.

If I were you, I'd talk to the best automobile painter in town. They'll have good info.
 
Guy showed up at the local Sunday market with a bunch of painted saws. I looked them over and bought one for 45.00. Took it back to my shop, stripped the paint, cleaned, polished, sharpened it and refinished the handle.

Disston 12 - 10 point crosscut with carved applewood handle in mint condition from about 1900 - worth about 400 bucks.

A tapered blade, no set, saw for hardwoods. One of the best Disston made.

Couple more and my saw collection will be complete.

Just wish they wouldn't paint them.
 
Check out local business and see if there is one that offer "sandblasting". It shouldn't cost you any more than a few bucks. It would probably take only a few minutes. I had a 24" blade sandblasted for a customer for $10.00 about a year ago... it took him only 10 minutes. :thumbsup:
 
Framar said:
Ask Nic (Blackiris) how she did it - she kvetched her way through painting a sawblade a while back as I recall. Turned out real good, though, for a sawblade.....:shutup:
Click to expand...

Yahhhhhhhh I dont ever want to do one ever again.......ugh

Ok sooooo I primed this huge saw blade with a regular Rustoleum cream color spray paint..... NOT bright white....

I used Liquitex acrylics for the painting then I sprayed a clear varnish over the whole thing.

The one I did was not to be hung outside...... but anything you paint and put outside...... no matter how you do it... will rust and the paint will fade and chip.

Good Luck!!
I'll show you mine if you show me yours!! :D
 
Our sawblade.
 

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cool cool cool sign!!!

I am thinking of telling the people that I dont feel comfortable doing it.
If they werent hanging it outside, sure, but I really dont want to do something and have it come
back a few years later...

I will let you know what happens if anything :)
 
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