Painted Bevels.....Help

MatFramer

CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
Joined
Sep 7, 2002
Posts
345
Location
Michigan
I had this "brilliant" idea for a great design. I sold the customer a beautiful deep blue linen mat, v-grooved and a deep bevel accent (almond). She didn't like the idea of the white bevel because the art is 100 years old and has yellowed. No problem, we can color the v-groove and the bevel to match the almond deep bevel. I have had good success in coloring the bevels before.

So, I go to work on this fun project. I can't seem to keep the paint off the edge of the fabric and it wants to soak into the fabric. (This doesn't happen on Alphamat or Rag.)

Any good suggestions? This was, and I repeat, was a good idea at the time.
 
Colored pencils!!! It takes a lot of sharpening but a good colored pencil like Prismacolors work great - with the added plus that you can blend and layer colors to achieve a perfect match!
 
Hi, Candy
Are you using Mat Magic inks? I've never really had a problem with them bleeding into the fabrics or color mat boards. It is a great product. I also lay a strip of removable (811) tape against the bevel before applying the ink or paint. Use only mild preasure to adhere so when you lift it off you don't take any mat surface off with the tape. This has never failed me !!!!

Lori
 
I'm with Mar, Colored pencils.... and then a damp little scumbling... just enough to blend, not enough to bleed.

". . . when you've been down that road a few to many times....it ain't called wisdom... just, been there." -Woody Guthrie
 
I'd suggest that when useing the removable tape that you apply it before you make the cuts and cout through it . this makes a better seal on the edge and probaly straighter than you can do after the cut. However it has been a while since i actually did this.

I have even sen Brian Wolf use this principal to mask marbleized panels ,by just cutting throg the tape and then peeling out the center area.
Buddy
BUDDY
 
I luuuuuv* doing painted bevels and panels! Sometimes I use acrylic paint, sometimes I use inks and sometimes pencils, but I always lay a strip of 811 down BEFORE the cut to keep the bevel line clean.

(*listen for the "Ernst T. Bass accent" for "luuuuv")
 
I have never tried the 811 tape trick with a fabric board - anyone? Wouldn't it pull up the fibers??? (of course pencil would "raise" the ends of the fibers and they'd have to be rubbed down -

Another thought would be to only partially cut thru the linen board and peel it back to be able to wrap the bevel with the fabric...
 
The technique Buddy described works because if you put the mat in the straightline cutter face up and lay the 811 tape along the cutter's bar, then turn the mat face down and cut, it leaves about 1/16" of tape on the fallout face. This is due to the cutter's geometry changing slightly in response to the thickness of the board. Once in a workshop, Brian described this effect as "almost profound". Gotta love that guy!
I've never tried it on a fabric board, but I would guess if you can get adquate adhesion to the surface, and paint carefully, it might work. I would pull the tape off using a motion as flat to the surface as possible, and toward the center of the v-groove or mat opening- rather than a lifting motion, which would tend to raise fibers at the bevel's edge.
:cool: Rick
 
When I cut a reverse bevel, I lay a line of 811 to make my marks for cutting, and I regularly cut these on suede matboard - no problems with the tape.
 
Betty - m'dear - why o why would you go to all that trouble to cut a reverse bevel when all you have to do (IMHO) is cut from the BACK of the mat with your bar and blade over the mat side instead of the knock-out side of the line?!?!?

KnowwhatImean???
 
I'd paint that bevel one of two ways:

1. The same color as the linen. Acrylic paint- thinnned- will work just fine.

or

2. Watercolor paint either the 'old paper' color or the color of the deep bevel.

Either way you don't have to mess with taping the bevel.

edie the tapingtakestime goddess
 
One trick that helps, with acrylic paint on
bevels, is applying it with the side of a brite
bristle brush. That keeps the paint where you want
it.


Hugh
 
Any way you choose just takes practice. I've used the tape method before, and like Edie, have decided the results are no better than if I just freehand it with a great brush for the paint. ( I personally think it's all in the brush with a smidge o' practice and patience)

I've never used colored pencils. Hmm..

Hugh, is that a brand name of a brush? I don't have a name, I just know the brush I like when I see it.. ? Wonder if it's the same..
 
Brite or bright describe the shape of the brush,
short bristles in a flat array... as opposed to
round, filbert, etc.


Hugh
 
Okay, job is done. The trouble I had was that the fibers of the linen we taking on the paint. The tape did not protect that fine line of fiber between the core and tape. Soooo......, after trying the pencil idea (I still think it is a great idea), I ended up using a short bristles brush (brite?) and very carefully stroked the acrylic on an inch or so at a time.

You all came up with some great suggestions!!! Thanks.
 
Betty, I used to use post it notes on each corner for marking suede to cut reverse bevels.
 
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