Oversized backing

I find that splicing backer paper works really well.

I put a piece across the bottom half first after running atg around the frame as usual; then run a strip of atg across the center and position the top piece neatly as usual.

It works really great... the main reason I do the bottom portion first is so it works like a shingle on a house, and anything runs down it and does not collect in the spliced area.

Good luck!

Thanks, Roz ... I've been doing that ... but since most of our work (especially large stuff) has a Coroplast backer, I was wondering if anyone has a line on a great, super-sticky, impervious tape that would seal the thing up. I've tried to use United's Framer tape (we call it white duct tape), but it doesn't hold well.
Try Lineco's frame sealing tape, available from UMS and other sources. It comes in 1" and 3" wide rolls and has a very agressive adhesive.
Duhhh ... I should have thought of that, too. I've used it on filets forever, ... never occurred to me to use it on the back.


[ 01-13-2004, 02:00 PM: Message edited by: FramingFool ]
I do the splice trick with Lineco.

I also have 48" craft paper.

Oddly enough, I find the Lineco tape not aggresive enough when attaching to the back of the frame. I use a 3" artist tape(?) from United.

[ 01-13-2004, 05:52 PM: Message edited by: lessafinger ]
I wanted to mention that using AGT tape to paper frames is a waste of expensive tape.

You can buy a lot of white glue for the price of a box of AGT. It's also faster and easier to work with once you get the hang of it. Lay a small bead of glue around back of the frame, paper it, and pull the sides to make it tight. Wipe the excess glue with a wet cloth, and there you go.

Also if you have to take it apart because of a pesky piece of dust the paper will usally pull right off. I find with AGT, that you can sometimes get some tape exposed, or if you have to take the paper off, it can be a bit of a hassle. I find that white glue is a bit more versatile.

Anyway, I thought I'd offer the suggestion.

K. Allen
For papering large frames, I usually mark the halfway point on the long sides, paper half the frame. Then, AGT along the one side of paper. Glue the other half of the frame, place the second sheet of paper along the AGT, and stretch the paper and press it to the frame.

If the frame has space, or is quite deep, I will cut a strip of foam core (just a small piece) and AGT it in the center of the frame where the two pieces of paper will meet. That way the paper won't sag while you're attaching.

As if that makes any sense.

K. Allen
Splicing the backing paper is my usual method for backing large pieces also. I use a little different approach to joining 2 pieces of paper together though. I tear 2 pieces off the roll that are the size of the width of the frame. I then ATG them together right on the work table using ATG from ASAP which has a surgical carrier imbedded in it. It seems to hold the paper much better than regular ATG. After the paper is joined together, it is just a matter of lining up the frame on this oversized piece of paper and following the usual numbers to attach it.

Using this tefhnique there isn't any problem with paper sagging or having to attach a support panel behind the splice to keep it flat.

White glue works fine for attaching the paper until you have to remove the paper later on (after the glue has dried completely). You have a much harder job getting all the paper and residue off the back of the frame with white glue. It is cheaper than ATG but I have had silent words many times about some other framer who had white glued the backing paper onto the frame a couple of years prior to my having to open the package back up to change mats or replace broken glass.

As with all little hints and tips that are posted here about materials used to get the job done, every framer has his/her own favorite technique and can state all sorts of reasons why they don't like another technique. It all amounts to whatever will float your boat! ;)

You may change your opinion about using ATG to attach the dust cover when the ATG fails in the heat and humidity. I used it for a while and have reverted back to glue for the most part.
I also find that removing a glued dust cover that I put on is easier than removing anybodies ATG, but as you said, it's history and opinion and nobody's wrong.