Question Oval Cuts – Museum Glass?

[Bill Henry-]

I know it is recommended to score the side of Musuem opposite from the UV lamination, but how ‘bout for an oval? (I often straight cut the UV side with no problems – it cuts fine – just sounds funny.)

I don’t want to risk a sheet to ‘speriment, but it would seem to me that if the score was NOT on the UV side, the scores tangentially away from the oval may not break cleanly from the laminate side.

Anyone had experience with cutting Museum into ovals?

(Using an OvalMaster)

 

[Dave]

I've cut plenty of oval museum glass but I do it by hand and do it the same way you cut any oval. No problems... in fact it seems to break even easier than CC.

 

[Terry Hart cpf]

I've cut oval from MG scoring on the uncoated side. Biggest problem is from the little glass chips which will scratch the coating if you're not very careful. Best to leave the coated side down.

 

[Jim Miller]

No problems... in fact it seems to break even easier than CC.

Ditto. Cut it face-up. As noted in previous threads, Museum Glass has optical coatings on both sides, and the UV coating is on top of that, on one side.

If the cutter makes tiny shards, perhaps the scoring pressure is too great. The lightest score that will make a line without skipping is enough pressure.

The reason Museum Glass breaks easier is that it has a reduced iron content -- yes, it is harder; more brittle than ordinary glass.

 

[Bill Henry-]

Thanks.

I scored it lamination side down, and, indeed, it broke more cleanly than regular glass. I was very careful to lift the remaining oval and not slide it.

Good to have this Grumble resource. Thanks again.