Non-plastic mounting methods for a sword

Create a Post
S

Susan L. Young

CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
Joined
Aug 26, 2007
Posts
202
Loc
North Atlanta
I need to figure out the best way to mount a sword (54" long). The crosspieces above the handle (don't laugh, I do NOT know the names of sword parts I just frame them) are about 9 inches wide. We are mounting linen onto masonite and placing behind the frame (not in the rabbet) after finishing the rabbet (looks nice with the moulding we've chosen), to slightly recess the sword. My client wants to periodically remove the sword from the mount so we are not using glass (per his request). I visualize doing something out of dark bronze/black metal.

The blade is shiny polished chrome, so need to protect it from scratching if I tuck the tip into a loop of some sort at the top?

This is a reproduction yet neat looking.

Any ideas? Jim Miller where are you?

Susan L. Young
Be Square Framing
 
I would probably use rare earth magnets to hold the sword, especially given the need to remove periodically.

For blades I usually install the magnets in a fabric wrapped plinth that is equal in depth to the handle of the knife/sword, such that the blade is held level with the mountboard.

Always use special magnet cups, they greatly increase holding power. Experiment with size and number of magnets needed to safely hold the particular blade.

I would also talk to client about front opening as opposed to just no glass.
 
54"?? That is a serious piece of hardware!!:icon45: Does he need to take it down periodically to see off aggressive door to door salesmen?

Magnets for mounting sounds like a good idea, otherwise clips similar to those used for cricket or baseball bats may be useful.

Definitely, if the backing is to be linen or anything else porous I would suggest glass and a hinged front rather than leaving it open. General household dust, cooking pollution, cig smoke, etc will soon discolour the backing otherwise.
 
Maybe shrink tube covered rod, form one complete flattened loop for the blade to slide into (maybe 6" or so), then have a u shaped one that the handle hangs over.
Usual coreflute procedure as recommended by Jim ( often : ) )

Do glaze . . . talk them into Museum, stunning in such a case for detail.
A front opening for ease of removal / replacement would be needed, as inversion would be 'unwise' in transit or removal / replacement.

The RE magnets sound neat, suppose if you fix to the backing, maybe sink 'em into two or three (wahtever's needed) raised blocks (or one long one?) of foamcore to hold parallel to the backing to just keep the hilt parts clear off the backing, and cover the lot with the fabric.

Front opening would still be best there too, I imagine.
 
Andrew--
given that the object is polished....wouldnot the magnets scratch the surface after a few mounts/dismounts????? how efficacious are they with some cloth over them to, perhaps, help elim this problem?? maybe any decrease in 'grab' would necessitate using 3-4 more magnets?

OR use a gravity groove box to get the best of all situations----ease of access AND stable/tubed mounts?????????
 
Last edited:
Thanks so much everyone.

I worry about scratching the sword, and holding it, as it is quite heavy (even for rare earth mags,which I love to use). With a strong enough magnet (and enough of them) covered with fabric as described above, this should work.

Follow up question: I have only purchased the rare earths that are about the diameter of a dime. How big or what 'pull' strength do you guys use for heavier objects. I don't want the dog's collar to be attracted to the mount as he walks by! Also, a concern around clocks/watches? Educate me.

Client is usually very conservation minded. Does not want glass in front of it, even Museum. I recommended and he declined. Not a pricing issue just his preference on this piece.

?? Many thanks.

Susan
 
This link will give you a simple table on holding power. For example, a single 1" diameter x 1/8" magnet will hold up to 30lb when properly installed.

And this link gives you loads more information, including comments on obvious things to avoid.
 
Susan -
Just thinking outside the box - I believe that everyone is envisioning this as a typical horizontal design. Have you (or your customer) considered a vertical design instead. By doing so, the sword would "hang" by the hilt of the sword. I would use short "pegboard" style hooks that were covered with vinyl or rubber to prevent scratching. Per the customer's request you could eliminate the glass or you could use plexi and hinge it on the left or right (like a door) depending on what the customer would prefer. A small lock could even be added to keep it out of the hands of children (including the grown-up ones)
 
Actually the client requested vertical, with the blade pointing up, but after thinking about this one I may suggest hanging by the hilt to eliminate the tendency for it to want to pivot outward (until the handle hits the backing board).

Sorry that crucial detail was omitted.

Oh, the blade is very dull, was never intended to cut.

Thanks for the suggestions. Gosh, I just LOVE this Grumble.
 
Darn good pick up Mike !!
Spot on too it seems.

Now that makes it a whole lot easier.
Use some sort of shrink tube covered rod on the hilt (either way would work) and Rare Earth Magnets (fabric covered) to hold the blade in position.
 
Yea! Touchdown! Go team.

Many thanks.

(everytime I see your post Les I want to visit Australia again....ahhh) G'night mates.
 
Susan, those are some very good ideas. Hanging it vertically, hilt up, makes perfect sense. Usually the hilt is the most decorative part of a ceremonial sword, so it would be best to have it at the top, nearer eye level.

I agree that formed-rod mounts covered with shrink tubing would be a good way to support the hilt of the sword, and rare earth magnets (padded to avoid scratching) would keep thye blade's lower end from moving around.

Using Masonite as the mounting board, you would have to use screws/nuts to secure the mounts. Coroplast would be my choice, because encapsulating the mounts in the air spaces between the flutes would hold them most securely.

Cover the mount board with fabric. Under the fabric, place stand-offs for the blade and recess your magnets into them. The fabric covering should avoid scratching. But if the fabric is fragile and subject to wear you could reinforce it with spots of Melinex or other durable, non-abrasive material.

Glazing is recommended, but I'd use Optium Acrylic, or Museum Optium Acrylic if the frame contains anything that could be damaged by UV exposure, such as fabric or images. Does your customer realize how easy it would be to open/reclose a Gravity Groove or Slider frame?

You could design the frame so that a Slider or Slip-Over feature could be added later. I have re-modeled a few frames that way. So, if he decides later to take your advice, you could accommodate him at that time without starting over.
 
we love you too.

I just did two Roby civil war swords, horizontal, non-removable. I got a brass rod, bent it into a "U", flat top. threaded the ends with a die, and put plastic tubing on it. Stove washers and nylon insert nuts held in in the back. I'm sure you could find something silver. What you could do if he wants it vertical hilt @ bottom is put a permenant u that you drop the handle into at the bottom, and at the top, make a u attached only through the board on one side, the other side make so you can turn onto the tip of the sword to hold it down.
 
Is there an archived description somewhere on how to do the slider/slipover feature? Think you wrote an article on this a while ago, am I right? Many thanks.
 
Susan L. Young said:
Is there an archived description somewhere on how to do the slider/slipover feature? Think you wrote an article on this a while ago, am I right? Many thanks.
Click to expand...

Slider article was in November 2005 PFM, page 72.

Slip-Over article has been recently submitted and may be published in 2-3 months.
 
Try the
"10-31" company, or an outfit called "small corp"

10-31 does display cases and mounts for all kinds of objects.
Sorry I dont have their number right now...
 
Create a Post
Back
Top