non buffered mats for photos

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pigeon

Grumbler
Joined
May 7, 1999
Posts
27
Loc
Merritt NC
I am doing some framing for a photograper who does 24x30 color photographs and wants to frame them as archivally as possible, and I was wondering how most Grumblers dealt with color photographs. As I understand it, color photographs and some black and whites should be mounted on non buffered boards such as Cresent 2299. I have used it in the past but have a hard time getting it and usually have to special order it. My local distributor doesn't even have it in the price list, and United in Florida only has 4 in stock, and I don't believe they keep very many in inventory.
And how about the mat itself? It usually only touches the edge of the photo, but is sealed in the framing package. Should all of these photographs be matted with only the 4 or 5 colors available?
And while we both know that dry mounting is not a conservation method, it seems the only choice, given their size. Or is there a chance that static mounting may work? (I know three has been discussion on this and I will do a search on it to see if it answers that question.)
I would really like to know how other framers would handle these pieces and appriciate any suggestions.

Thanks, Joe
 
Joe,
Bainbridge and Rising both make "Photomount" boards.They have the properties you described.

The standard "C" print is not as affected by the buffering agents as, say, a die-transfer print would be, and I don't think the issue of buffering is as critical with "C" prints as with others.

The issue of dry mounting is best determined by the artist themselves. I explain to them the advantages/disadvantages of the various forms of mounting and let them decide. The one issue that should be discussed is the relative fragility of the image itself. They are very susceptable to light fading (both UV and visible), and the chances are the image will fade long before the possble negative affects of dry mounting come in to play.

If the photos are by some other process, such as Ilfachrome, then you have a completely different can of worms.
 
This is a great example of a larger question: "How much c/p framing do you apply to a fugitive object?"

We've gone round-and-round about whether newspaper articles should be dry mounted. I think resin-coated photographs present a similar dilemma. They are more-or-less sealed against pollutants, but will fade within a generation - UV glass or not. Mounted or not. Non-buffered mats or not.

My own larger concern with mounting RC photos is the risk of damage from too much heat or pressure in the press. Therefore, my preferred mounting material is Crescent Perfect Mount on Super Smooth board.

Most of you knew I would say that.

I wouldn't agonize over a buffered or non-buffered board with RC photos, but I'm open to other ideas about that.
 
As Wally and Ron said, non-buffered board is not
at all essential. The research that was done on
possible problems with alkaline materials around
photos was later retracted. Since, boards are laminated with PVA, which can produce acid over
time, having some chalk in the board looks like
a good idea for everything but certain exotic
photos like cyanotypes. Cold mounting always has
the advantage of not heating the mounted item and
heat is how scientists simulate aging, artificially.

Hugh
 
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