nielsen profile 100

Create a Post
GlassGard from Frametek? Or just shove teeny little shims way in from underneath. I've chosen to just ignore the rattle and tell the doubters some cock-in-a-bull story about how the glass needs to "breathe." Okay....not exactly, but I do indeed just ignore it.

Didn't help, did it?
 
This is a great question! I will love to see what other people have come up with. I have tried putting a thin line of 810 tape just along the edges of the glass - kind of like a mini sandwich fit - and also sliding in a thin piece of 2 ply. Sometimes the channel is tighter than other times, and it doesn't seem to need anything at all. Other times the channel seems huge!
I hope someone has a great, easy answer!
 
Originally posted by framanista:
How do you keep the glass from rattling in nielsen's profile 100?
Click to expand...
Shhhhhh ...

Several tiny dabs of that Devil's goop, silicone.

Don't tell anyone else I suggested it; I don't want to become excommunicated from the Grumble! ;)
 
I love the 100's - they are absolutely the quickest, easiest shadow box frames ever.

So I'm with MM - I ignore it.

Kit
 
This has come up a few times and many of the suggestions here are on earlier posts. I do believe that using 2mm (+) glass helps. However, can I ask a stupid question? I've used this profile on some personal projects and the glass did rattle. Most framed art hangs on a stationary wall and does not move. Therefore, is the rattle really an issue?
 
If you can get the customer to not freak about the rattle until they get it on the wall, you might be okay. But in my house, it would rattle everytime someone opened a door.
That would drive me nuts.
 
GlasGuard won't work; you can't get it into the channel on all 4 sides.

Try this:

</font>
  • Cut 1/2" wide strips of suede matboard at least the length of the frame rails</font>
  • Strip the suede layer off the matboard, keep the suede and toss the rest</font>
  • Gently fold the suede into a long, C shaped strip (suede to the inside of the C )</font>
  • Slide the C shaped strips into the glass channel and trim the ends slightly shorter than the frame rail</font>
  • Make sure the glass edges fit inside the suede when assembled</font>

[ 12-03-2003, 10:44 AM: Message edited by: Rick Bergeron - CPF ]
 
Interesting idea, Rick. I've had luck picking off small balls of material from one of those gray kneaded erasers, and shoving one into each corner between the glass and frame face. Tool of choice for doiing this is a flattened out spring clip.

Hey, MerpsMom, I think that's "Cock 'n' Bull Story". A cock-in-a-bull story would be something else entirely, but I think that belongs on Warped.

Rick
 
Well, Rick, you caught an English maven there. You are, of course, correct. My misstep may be a malepropism handed down from my mother, the perfect example of mixed metaphors and other distracting language foibles. She always said cock-in-a-bull story, and it apparently stuck.
 
Ignore the glass rattle; no one will hear it after it is hung unless you have an earthquake. Only in California would this be a problem.

Jack Cee
 
I agree that the 100 profile is great for shadowboxes. One of my favorites.

We use small strips of Volara tape wrapped over the glass edges. Not all the way around, but a 1/2" piece every 6 inches or so. It's invisible, easy, not costly, and effective.

Volara, in case you don't already know the product, is the thin, black, 1/2" wide foam tape made for lining frame rabbets in contact with oil paintings. Available from University Products and, presumably, other archival material sources.
 
Create a Post
Back
Top