Originally posted by itgsports:
... I have heard more bad things about the attach-ez then good, so dont know if that is a good idea...
Keep reading until you discover that Attach EZ is better than sewing, for most garment mounting jobs. The nylon fasteners are more secure and install faster than stitches. The Tool & fasteners are made to separate a fabric's weave, so will not harm most fabrics. Poke the tool from the back, through the mount board, the back layer of fabric, and the support-insert board. It is usually not necessary to run the tool all the way through the front layer of fabric.
Do not use Attach EZ on fragile or very fine-woven fabrics. Attach-EZ is best for run-of-the-mill retail jobs, such as a signed football jersey. But if the garment is very valuable, even if new, I might still take the time to sew with cotton thread.
Always use a support-insert. That is, place a trimmed-to-fit, 4-ply alphacellulose board inside the garment to give it support and body. Sand the edges of the board to prevent snags or cutting the fabric. Foam center board would be OK for most retail jobs, but not as easy to trim in odd shapes as 4-ply board. If you choose to use foam center board, I suggest Bainbridge ArtCare.
The support-insert is what you fasten to the mount board. That is, the garment itself is supported by the insert, and the insert is supported by the fasteners.
I suggest using a frame at least 1" deep for a T-shirt or other small, flat garment. For fluffy fabrics and large garments, I suggest at least 1-1/2" rabbet depth. Nielsen's 100 series mouldings are box-extruded with handy, integral shadowbox sides. Also, Larson-Juhl offers ready-made garmet frames with hangers inside, at a reasonable price.
There's an article coming up in Picture Framing Magazine, maybe the upcoming issue, about framing a sport jacket. The subject of the article is a very garish plaid jacket, but the same methods work for any color or pattern...