Question Newbie: Cutting Foamcore

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osumartz

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I am trying to cut foamcore accurately, but cost effectively. I can either use a xacto knife and ruler, one of those $120 mat cutting do-dads from Michael's, or (maybe) a table saw. I would GREATLY appreciate any suggestions and tips! I need to cut a good amount of foamcore in a pretty short amount of time.

Thanks in advanced!!!
 
"cut foamcore accurately" ... purpose of foamcore (e.g. just backing?) Intricate or not? 1/8" or 3/16".

"trying to cut" ...Straight cut or bevel cut?

"good amount" = ????? (e.g. 10 sheets, 100 sheets, 1000 sheets) Recurring event or one-time activity?

"short time" = ????? (e.g. 1 hour, 1 day, 1 week)

Options include, straight edge (preferably clamped) and utility knife over a self-healing mat or some other durable material such as scrap acrylic, straight-line mat cutter, wall-cutter, CMC. As to which is best much depends on answers to above.
 
With a table saw, you are likely to melt and burn the foam and gum up your blades.

An XActo blade – you should have more than just a rule. You’ll almost need a heavy, slip free straight edge. Then you’ll either have to measure every piece or build some kind of a jib to make the cutting go smoothly and efficiently.

If you’re talking about a mat cutter “do dad” (proper term “thingamajig”), if you’re doing any real quantity, it will save you tons of time and aggravation if you get one.

You might be able to get a hobby mat cutter for about 60 bucks on line.
 
Cut a piece square in a few seconds. Fatigue won't hamper quality or risk of injury. http://www.dickblick.com/products/fletcher-3000-multi-material-wall-mount-cutter/


Cut a piece square in a few more seconds. Fatigue will hamper quality and if you continue to cut when fatigued you'll eventually slice the side of your thumb off.

http://www.uline.com/BL_1158/Uline-Steel-Utility-Knife

plus

http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Ste...9?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1242591268&sr=8-9


A mat cutter that will cut the 90 degree cut is the intermediate option for several hundred bucks. You're still going to have to measure out the cuts and mark with a pencil first unless the pieces you need are quite small. So if it's a one-time thing use the utility knife and take breaks when you get tired. Cheap equipment is just going to be irritating.
 
osumartz said:
When I say accurately, I mean just having straight edges that aren't all jacked up :)
Click to expand...

From what you're saying here, it sounds like you're using the wrong kind of blade to do your cutting. A new utility knife blade will work better than an exacto. Only score your first pass, then cut all the way through on your second. Use a solid straight edge, and keep your fingers curled away from the edge. (Don't ask me how I learned that)

A fletcher wall cutter is a magnificent tool for doing this kind of thing if you have to do it often.
 
If this is a one-time job, do it with a good straightedge and a utility knife. Change blades often.

If it is a recurring need, you could buy a used matcutter or wall cutter and have an appropriate machine for the job at reasonable cost, even if it is overkill for your limited needs.

Fletcher-Terry offers two machines specifically designed for trimming straight edges quickly and accurately, the Gemini and the Titan. Start here:

http://www.fletcherviscom.com/viscom/gemini/Gemini_Main.shtml

My Valiani CMC has a special cutting head for foam center boards -- very fast, repeatable, and perfectly accurate. Dave at Framemakers in Powell probably could do the same on his Wizard. If you want to cut up, say, fifty 32x40 boards at a time, that might be your least-cost option.
 
I bought a Logan mat cutter 10 years ago to cut mats and foam.

It soon outlived it's usefulness for cutting mats but we still use it today for cutting foamboard, cardboard and trimming wide format inkjet prints.

http://www.logangraphic.com/products/boardmounted/simplexplus.shtml

I have it flushed mounted into a table top.

I've purchased 4 or 5 cutting heads throughout the years and replaced the hinges.

I consider it the most useful $250.00 tool in the shop even though it's made for beginners.

You can also buy just the straight cutting head and a straight edge with the grove designed for the head.
http://www.logangraphic.com/products/straightedges/

Doug
 
I too started with a Logan Simplicity - I believe that was the model. Like
Doug, I outgrew it quickly but I was able to sell it off a few years ago to another person just getting into the business, I believe they still use it. I suggest if you want a good cheap cutter to check out the Logan if you only want it to cut foam core, it should do the job. Most other cutters will be way to expensive if you only need it for a time or two. You may also want to check out eBay, there are usually a ton of cutter for sell there.
 
Gotta love it when people don't read the whole post and yet still manage to respond (wrongly).

You could still use a Logan type cutter and set it up on the table (make sure it is secure so it doesn't move) so you have a stop (like a piece of wood or a stack of FC strips) attached to the table (with ATG so you can move it) allowing you to put the piece of FC against that to get a repeatable cut size. This is all based on how the FC is put thru the cutter. I'm assuming the blade to do straight cuts is on the far side of the machine.
The main thing is to figure out the best way to make your cuts to get the most out of each sheet of FC. Planning beforehand will make the whole process easier with less waste.
Change blades often and the cuts will stay clean. You will quickly be able to feel when the blade starts to drag rather than glide thru the FC.
 
So...what you are saying, is that I was wrong about you posting without having actually read the whole post?

Otherwise. I stand by my comment.
 
Watch out for the logan 301S. It isn't wide enough to cut 32x40" sheets because the rail is attached to the board and encroches on the cutting length. So you can only really get ~29" wide board deep enough into it to cut it in half.

I'm planning on taking one of these apart and building it out on a larger board to get a squaring arm and the ability to get wider board in it.
 
If the piece is smallish,and 1/8-1/4" thick a simple guillotine cutter will work(You know that big ol thing used to cut paper at school). If the blade is in good shape,it won`t crush the foam. Iuse one all the time for small pieces. L.
 
framah said:
So...what you are saying, is that I was wrong about you posting without having actually read the whole post?

Otherwise. I stand by my comment.
Click to expand...

my reason for returning to this thread was i realized my mistake as i posted in the early am, so i wanted to correct myself, thanks so much for doing it for me!... as far as your comment... whatever gets ya through the day.
 
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