new guy - with a question (or two!)

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kjhart0133

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Hello all,

I just joined this forum. It looks like it's full of great info. I'm from Jesup, Iowa, and I frame pictures for friends and family, and every once in a while a paying customer. i work out of my wood shop where I build furniture, make frame moldings and fab the occasional doo-dad.

Right now I'm working on a framing repair for my wife's daughter. She bought a 30x40 fine art print and had it mounted and framed. Unfortunately the framing shop didn't do a very good job. There's just a single piece of white backing (very thin foam-core) measuring 42x32. The print was stuck to the backing at just three points along the top of the print with a dab of some sticky substance. One dab on the top left and right corners, and one dab in the middle. The print just hung from those three dabs. Of course, after a while the three dabs of sticky stuff dried out and the print slipped down in the frame. Also, there's about 3/4" between the print and the clear acrylic front.

My questions are:

1. What can I use to reattach the print to the backing? Double sticky tape? Without a mat over the print, hinge tape would just look ugly because it would have to stick to the front of the print. Will double sticky tape reveal itself somehow on the front of the print?

2. Can I buy mats larger than the standard 40x32. I'd like to add a mat or two, but i'd need one larger than the standard size.

Thanks for any assistance you can provide and I hope to be a contributor to this forum in the future.

Kevin H.
 
How valuable is the print? If no value, drymounting might be the way to go. Or just sandwich it between glass and backboard (again, only if no value and not trying to preserve it).

If any value (monetary or sentimental) I would float mount it with hidden hinges (if the frame is deep enough, as you do need clearance between the glazing and the print).

40x60 is still a somewhat standard size for mats as well, just not available in every color you wish for. Sigh.

Welcome to the Grumble
 
Ylva said:
I would float mount it with hidden hinges
Click to expand...

Yiva,

Sounds like hidden hinges may fit the bill. Can you recommend a source or website? There is about 3/4" clearance between the print and the acrylic glazing, so that should not be a problem. Also, can you recommend a source for 60x40 mats?

Thanks,

Kevin
 
Kevin, search the archives here on the Grumble. What suppliers do you have access to? I don't think you will find anything in a craft store,so you might want to ask a framer if they will sell you mats.

For float mounting; you cut a piece or board a bit smaller than the art, hinge the back of the art with an overlap to the back of the board (sorry, I can picture it in my head, harder to describe) and then put everything on another backboard. Use spacers to make sure the art doesn't touch the glass.
 
Hi Kevin...

Welcome to the "G"! You'll find this place a great resource and a fun community. We all learn a lot from each other and I'm sure you'll have much to contribute too.

Where are you located? That will have a bearing on who might be a good distributor of the products you learn about.

Dave
 
Dave, he's in Jesup, Iowa.

And that means Kevin that there are a number of good suppliers here in the midwest you could use. I'm just not familiar with which ones cover your area. There are several good ones in the Minneapolis-St. Paul area as well as northern IL and a couple in WI. I use TC Moulding and Evald Moulding for most of my supplies.
 
welcome to the grumble

For the Mat boards and the tape you should try a local independent art supply store....If they do not stock ask if they will order the board. If not try a local independent framer and ask if they would order in the 40x60 for you...
 
You mention that the artwork is a fine art print, if you mean that the print is worth some money, you might want to take it to an independent framer, or two, and see if they can repair the damage the first framer did. (Just like woodworkers, not all framers are of the same skill and knowledge level.)

Also like woodworkers, framing is not just four sticks of wood; proper hinging of this print might need someone who has the skills and knowledge to do it right.

Please don't feel like I am telling you that you shouldn't learn, or join us here... I welcome you to expand your knowledge, and hope that you stick around. But I am sure that the first time you picked up one of your woodworking tools, you didn't make a masterpiece. Same goes for framing. There is a learning curve, and if you want to protect that print, it should be seen by a skilled framer. (However, if the frame had been cracked, I am sure you would be well equipped to fix it, and it probably would look better than before!)

Many local framers love to talk shop with another skilled artisan. Make friends with your local framer, you never know, you might be able to work with them on some projects in the future.
 
Well, I've been away from my computer for a while. My wife and I just finished RAGBRAI, a 406 mile, 7 day bike ride across iowa.

As to my framing question about hanging the fine art print: if I can get the oversize mat, I'll have no problem hinging it to the mat and completing the repair. Done that sort of thing lots of times. But if I want to restore the framing job to the way it was, i.e. just stuck onto the backing board and left hanging there, then the usual hinging methods will have to be modified I believe. You all have given me some good advice. I'll be in Minneapolis in a couple of weeks and will try to get the oversize mat from TC Moulding. My brother-in-law has an account there.

Thanks,

Kevin H.
 
Kevin - I have a question for YOU! My bike was left out in the rain/sun for 2 days, which I found out an hour ago when I went to ride to work. Apparently my significant other "thought I did that intentionally" and left it outside when she saw it. Anyway, the chain is rusted this morning as well as the hardware nuts and bolts. It was all good 2 days ago. Is this something that I can just spray with a silicone spray and that's it, or do I need to give it a big workover?
 
kjhart0133 said:
As to my framing question about hanging the fine art print: if I can get the oversize mat, I'll have no problem hinging it to the mat and completing the repair. Done that sort of thing lots of times

Thanks,

Kevin H.
Click to expand...

ahhh - hinging to the MAT is something you DON'T want to do.
 
I agree with Steve. When I do hinge, I often hinge to the mat. It is not museum standard, but when I frame for museums I do follow their standards.
 
hangupsgallery said:
Wives tale.
Click to expand...

I like a little wives tail butt... have to disagree.

I have taken too many pieces apart to believe that this is an ok practice. I don't like having to rehinge when I have to change a mat, or accidentally damage the art when opening or removing the old mat. It is so easy to hinge to the backing, that I see no need to hinge to a mat. I don't understand why people do it. I find it a very dangerous practice. I try to frame things thinking that it will have to come apart someday, and I want to make it easy and safe for the next person.
 
Less said:
I like a little wives tail butt... have to disagree.

I have taken too many pieces apart to believe that this is an ok practice. I don't like having to rehinge when I have to change a mat, or accidentally damage the art when opening or removing the old mat. It is so easy to hinge to the backing, that I see no need to hinge to a mat. I don't understand why people do it. I find it a very dangerous practice. I try to frame things thinking that it will have to come apart someday, and I want to make it easy and safe for the next person.
Click to expand...

Who are you and what did you do with Less?!!
 
David N Waldmann said:
Who are you and what did you do with Less?!!
Click to expand...

Less is on vacation - hasn't had one since 2001. Hope he never comes back. Although I would like to get paid.
 
I like hinging to the mat because it puts the hinge on the back side of the art rather than the front. It also insures that the art work remains centered on the mat opening without going to all the hassle of hinging the mat to the back and then realigning the art. As for removing the art....shouldn't be any more of problem than with any other method of hinging. (assuming your hinges are reversible)

I think this boils down to personal preference rather than some "museum standard". There are as many opinions among "museum standards" as there are framers. Bottom line.....protect the art the best you can given the value of the piece and the level of conservation appropriate for the piece being framed.
 
do T hinges not go onto the front of the piece, only a small amount but still on the front

if using self adhesive tissue or whatever, how do you hinge to the back, not saying its wrong just never seen it done that way

i can see how hinge could go on back with paste, but cant see how to do it with self adhesive of whatever kind
 
Take two pieces of tape and put them in the shape of a T with the adhesive facing each other. Attach the top of the T to the mounting board and put the art on the part of the T that hangs down. I hope that made sense.

Ed
 
I used to hinge to the mat. :p Seemed the logical thing to do at the time. Of course it's a pita if you have to remove the artwork later as I came to realise.......:o

It's also much easier to position stuff when hinging to an undermat. Especially when it's a print with a border. (As I also came to realise again.)
 
If you experience problems with positioning when hinging to the backing board you can hinge on an oversize board and trim after positioning.
 
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