Need help with magazine article on working with Acrylic

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First, let me wish everyone a healthy and happy holiday season.

Next, I would like to ask for your help with an article I'm writing for my new Picture Framing Magazine collumn, "Back to Basics."

Debuting with the January issue, "Back to Basics" will serve as a primer for new framers and as a technical review with helpful tips for veterans. I even managed to get in a plug for The Grumble in the January article.

Now I am working on an article about the use and handling of acrylic glazing and would appreciate some tips from my fellow Grumblers. You can post them here for all to read, and/or you can email them to me at BacktoBasics@pictureframingschool.com . Let me know if it's okay to use your name in the article.

Thanks in advance.

Paul Cascio
 
Plexi,

love to hate it...

essential on larger pieces.

Some communities, schools and health care facilities require it.

It's a pain with the static properties.

Removing the protective covering is a workout in itself!! But I learned from the grumble that if you use a tube (I keep a pvc tube just for that purpose) it rolls off fairly easily.

Of course, this is my limited use knowledge for what it's worth!!

Happy holidays!!

Roz
 
I avoided it for 25 years - then got a case of 4'x8' Cyro Acrylite OP-3 for a job that demanded it - large, valuable pieces hanging in a public area under flourescent lights.

I fell in love with this product. It cuts easily with the Fletcher 3000, requires no prep cleaning, it's absolutely clear (not green), and filter 98% UV.

It is now my default glazing for larger than 30x40.

Several months ago, I had occasion to use some 1/4" OP-3 for a really huge project. I bought it pre-cut and picked it up in a utility trailer because it wouldn't fit in my van. It worked very well and I can't imagine what else would have worked at all.

I haven't had a big problem with static. When needed, I use one of those 3M mesh cleaning cloths lightly misted with distilled water to clean and "de-static."

I experimented with building a few Acrylic boxes and learned just enough to understand why I'm paying someone else to do it.
 
A primer on the various cleaning methods and products would also be helpful. I use a product called Brillianize that is very easy to work with and makes the static issue more manageable. It does leave a very slick coat on the acrylic, and I am curious as to the long term effects of the product in regards to archival use.
The product was referred to me from a gallery that deals in high priced items and they learned about it from other galleries they deal with in NYC, but word of mouth and common usage doesn't necessarily mean it is safe in use with fine art.

[ 12-19-2003, 11:43 AM: Message edited by: wpfay ]
 
Here are some ideas that have helped me a lot working with acrylic over the years.

Prior to taking off the protective covering, scrape a bevel on all four sides (edges) to remove any saw burrs or sharp slivers. I made a simple tool to do this quickly and safely out of an inch wide piece of 1/6 inch thick sheet metal with a 90° "V" notch filed in end of it. The "V" scrapes both edges at once and keeps the tool from slipping off.

Also, before you take the paper/plastic protective covering off, wipe down both sides and the edges with a damp cloth - this really kills static and also removes any dust.

When you take of the covering, do it slowly. If you do it fast you will create static.

Use a cardboard tube rather than a plastic one to roll up the covering - also reduces static.

If you use one of the anti-static polishes - apply it liberally but wipe it of slowly - let evaporation help. If you wipe briskly - you will create static.

I bought a case of "Novus" 4oz. bottles of plastic polish/anti-static and gave it "Free" with each frame job using acrylic along with a care and feeding instruction sheet. I added the cost to the price of the acrylic to cover the "Free" bottle.
 
Sorry I don't have a tip (without repeating the above tips) but you might mention in your article some care tips framers can pass on to the customer. For example, what home cleaning products can be used without going out and buying a bottle of special acrylic cleaner. Or which home cleaning products should NOT be used.
 
Cyro (have I mentioned I love that company?) has product care stickers to apply to the dust cover.

I'll bet if you email Courtney Clay at Cyro, they'd send you some.
 
The last time I checked at CYRO, my rep said use Windex, just spray it on a cloth or papertowel rather than right on the surface. The idea is not to let the liquid come in contact with the edges (sides) of the plastic. I use the AR-OP3 . Windex works well, but I usually use Sprayway.
 
Always use a cardboard tube for rolling the film or paper off (anti static). Lint free smooth paper towel (nosaj #RC6R). Saturate the surface with a vinagar based cleaner (the green stuff), never use ammonia based it will in time fog the surface. The product "Kling Free" has worked for me in the past but a gentle misting of distiled water also works to kill the static. Leave alittle extra allowence went cutting the plex or the frame. I've seen 4 x 8 sheets delivered in August expand nearly a quarter inch in the direction of the extrusion.
 
Originally posted by What?:
The last time I checked at CYRO, my rep said use Windex, just spray it on a cloth or papertowel rather than right on the surface. The idea is not to let the liquid come in contact with the edges (sides) of the plastic. I use the AR-OP3 . Windex works well, but I usually use Sprayway.
The Cyro AR is Abrasion-Resistant, not anti-reflective.

You could probably clean it with steel wool.
 
Static is killed by water. Commercial cleaners
have humectant components, which draw water to
the surface of the acrylic to kill the charge.
A damp, well wrung out chamois, or a paper towel
that has been thoroughly wetted with water and
alcohol can do the job. The alcohol is useful
with the paper, since it serves as a wetting
agent and its presence will stop the water from
beading on the surface of the acrylic.

Hugh
 
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