need fast advice
- Thread starter Steph
- Start date
I guess I should have asked for rush shipping, because tehy havent left yet. I'm on my way to frame a 49x60 mirror on sight, they are hanging it on the wall, I don't have the hardware for the customer now. Any suggestions
I only have a 6' piece of the regular z-bar instock. I don't think I should trust that. It would be only 3' for each section.
Help, please
I only have a 6' piece of the regular z-bar instock. I don't think I should trust that. It would be only 3' for each section.
Help, please
Rogatory
SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
It's much more work but you could cut the z bar into 4 peices, space evenly (top and bottom), I imagine that would distribute the weight properly.
Are you using wall anchors?
Are you using wall anchors?
I wondered that as well because I have 2 10" long pieces too. Is the regular strong enough for a mirror this size?
Its going in aresturant. Don't want it to fall on anybody.
I'm not installing it on wall they are, but I would certainly suggest molleys if theycan't hit a stud
Its going in aresturant. Don't want it to fall on anybody.
I'm not installing it on wall they are, but I would certainly suggest molleys if theycan't hit a stud
reschedule the install...
OR
You can make your own cleat style hanger from 1/2" plywood. Just rip it at 45degrees with the surface grain into 2 4" wide strips. One goes on the wall with the edge of the bevel pointing up and out, and one on the back of the frame. This is what was used before z-bar. Use good grade plywood, not that exterior sheething crap.
OR
You can make your own cleat style hanger from 1/2" plywood. Just rip it at 45degrees with the surface grain into 2 4" wide strips. One goes on the wall with the edge of the bevel pointing up and out, and one on the back of the frame. This is what was used before z-bar. Use good grade plywood, not that exterior sheething crap.
Richard Darling
SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
You can go to your local home improvement store and get the J-channel used for hanging closet systems. If you already have a cleat on the back of the mirror, just put one channel on the wall. If you need the cleat too, put a channel upside down on the back of the mirror so that it hangs on the wall channel.
framah
SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God
Ok... don't use plywood for the wood cleats. Use 4/4 pine and rip that. Plywood is made of layers and as we should all know... layers have the possibility to separate from each other and weaken the cleat. A solid piece of wood is the only way to safely do it. 4/4 wood is actually 3/4" thick but can be planed down if needed.
You don't need molly bolts for the z clips as long as you hit a couple of studs with long screws. The holes in the strip are at 4" on center so you are guaranteed to hit studs whether they are on 16" or 24" .
Sheetrock screws into the wall will also help take the load even when they don't hit a stud. If the frame is 60" long, then the strip on the wall should be about 3" in from the ends.
This way the mirror can be adjusted left or right as needed without fear of revealing the ends of the strips on the wall.
A strip of that length on the wall will have 12 - 13 holes in it. That is plenty of screws into the wall to guarantee hitting a few studs.
I have hung pieces this size like I describe without using molly bolts and have had no failures.
Of course, I like the idea of just rescheduling when you have the stuff in. Blame UPS for the screwup. The customer can commisserate with that better than your supplier messed up.
You don't need molly bolts for the z clips as long as you hit a couple of studs with long screws. The holes in the strip are at 4" on center so you are guaranteed to hit studs whether they are on 16" or 24" .
Sheetrock screws into the wall will also help take the load even when they don't hit a stud. If the frame is 60" long, then the strip on the wall should be about 3" in from the ends.
This way the mirror can be adjusted left or right as needed without fear of revealing the ends of the strips on the wall.
A strip of that length on the wall will have 12 - 13 holes in it. That is plenty of screws into the wall to guarantee hitting a few studs.
I have hung pieces this size like I describe without using molly bolts and have had no failures.
Of course, I like the idea of just rescheduling when you have the stuff in. Blame UPS for the screwup. The customer can commisserate with that better than your supplier messed up.