Need advice on sewing to attach a t-shirt

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Natalya Murphy

Natalya Murphy

CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
Joined
Nov 4, 2006
Posts
478
Loc
Nebraska
I'm working on two separate t-shirts to be framed for a customer. He wants each shirt folded so you basically see a rectangular shape when you look at it. The sleeves are folded under and so is the bottom of the shirt. He just wants the artwork on the shirt to be prominent.

My plan is to use a rectangular piece of matboard with a curve cut out for below the collar. I'll insert that inside the shirt, fold back the sleeves and the lower part of the shirt, then sew the entire thing onto another matboard.

Due to budget constraints, Attach-EZ is not an option right now so I'll be attaching the shirt with needle and thread. I'm thinking I just want to run the thread through the backing board, back fabric layers and the insert board. My question is, since the shirt is going to be all folded up, how do I get the needle back down through all the layers without going through the front of the shirt?

Alternately, if it's better to sew through to the front, how far do I space the stitches to provide enough support but still give the appearance that the shirt is just floating there?

And another question. Do I do some limited lacing to keep the sleeves and shirt bottom wrapped around the insert BEFORE I attach everything to the backing board?
 
The AttachEZ is great, but, that seems like a lot of layers to try to push it through.

If I were to sew that down I would use my awl to make the holes first. Again a lot of layers to push a needle through. Pre punch the holes then sew.


I have in the past mounted objects onto mat board "boards". Basically a float mount for shadow boxes. The beauty of this is that the object can be moved around and different layouts can be previewed before the final resting place for the object in found. Sewing or using the Attach to a single matboard/foamcore mount would be easier than trying to go through a lot of layers, and might give the thread a stronger hold. I am concerned, I guess, about the weight of the object pulling down the shirt and showing the thread and holes.
 
When we do jersies this way, we stitch the flaps (sleeves and extra fabric) to themsleves while the form is in it. I make sure that it is good and solid before we tack the whole thing down. We usually try to tack it at a seam so if there are any stitches coming through the front, they are disguised.

Clear as mud?

edie the needlethreader goddess
 
I do this all the time. Here is my method:

First, fit the former in the jersey / shirt as you describe. Use lacing and/or pins on rear to ensure snug fit if needed. Many times this can be avoided by carefully sizing the former.
Second, all stitching to secure jersey to mountboard is done thru former/back of jersey ... no stitches thru front.
Third, stitches to tie jersey to mountboard can be done in some parts (e.g. in the neck area) by just reaching inside. Use a pair of needle nose pliers to grasp the needle. Pass one end thru. Then rethread needle with tail. Repeat. Tie off at back. Apply Framers Tape II or similar over tied off stitch.
Fourth, for those areas that you cannot work in this manner (e.g. bottom of shirt that has been folded up) before you sew down the jersey use a semicircular needle from underneath of jersey ... work the needle thru the bottom of the jersey then thru the former back down thru the back of the jersey, taking care not to go thru the front. This takes a bit of practice but is easy once you have developed the knack. Again needle nose pliers can be used to help push needle thru material. This will leave two tails of thread which can then be passed thru the mountboard (again using needle, pliers) tie off and tape as before. Best to tack at the neck first to achieve corect position. Then slightly lift bottom so that pre-placed tails are secured back from the edge of the jersey. This way no stitches show on the front.

Here is an example done by this method ... no visible stitches! This is secured to mountboard with eight stiches: three in neck, one in each arm area, three across bottom.
uclashirt001.jpg



uclashirt005.jpg
 
I don't have an Attach-EZ (yet, anyway).

I basically do what Edie does - hide any stitches on the front in a seam (and I use a form inside the shirt).

I like how Andrew mounted his jersies without stiches showing on the front - well done! I must try this method sometime.

If there is a heavy/thick logo on the front, I'll hide some stitches along the perimeter of the logo to keep it secure - I'm always afraid that 'gravity won't be my friend' and the weight of the logo might cause some drooping. It may be overkill to do this...
 
When I've used a form inside, I like to wrap a thin layer of quilt batting around it, to soften the harsh edges of the form (matboard/foamcore) inside. Baer did his Breast Cancer survivors' shirt padded with -uh - anatomically correct lumps! Very cool! My "ThinkPink Shirt of Hope" is still at the Cancer Center, being signed by survivors, and I hope to get it back soon to finish it. AttachEZ and quilt batting!!

Andrew, I like your layout, and the rounded corners on the bottom. Simple, classy.

I haven't had any jerseys to do in awhile, not since I got my AttachEZ kit, and I'm chomping at the bit to use it! So I'm going to just go find one of my own, (no I never had a football/basketball/hockey jersey!) to do up for the shop. I did have a letter sweater once, for Band, but moths ate it years ago. I'm thinking of calling the local college and asking if anyone's willing to part with a jersey....signed by their team members! Think they'll go for it?
 
Before fitting the former I lightly sand the edges (and corners) to avoid a harsh line. This also prevents snags while inserting.
 
Ok, when I said 'we' .........

If I'm doing it (not if I can help it!) I'll use thick parts of the garment like the hems around the sleeves and neck and either pass the needle through without coming out the front or simply catch an existing stitch.

Iron-on and emroidered motifs are other areas that the needle can go through without passing through to the front. But if you pull them too tight you may see a pucker.

Pat seems to be able to do it most anywhere though.

Look at a trouser/skirt hem - stitches inside, none outside.

Anyway, next time Pat does it I'll get the camera out.
 
there was a guy in a shop I worked in that didn't stitch his shirts AT ALL
he would make the form out of foamcore,fit the form inside the shirt, wrap the excess behind, stretch and pin it to the back....then to attach it to the matboard, he would slide his hand under the shirt through the neck and push the pins through the foamcore and matboard and bend them downwards and tape securely. He has done this for Tshirts, football jerseys, hats, etc.. even old WW2 jackets! it looks fabulous and stays put! No wrinkles.. no sagging.
He does them pretty quickly, faster than sewing!
I have yet to try it this way, but it looks easy.
 
both... T-pins and the long straight pins.. he got them at the Dollar store!
as long as they're long enough to poke through everything and have at least 1/2" to bend downwards and tape securely with either white framer's tape or that brown heavy paper tape.
 
OK, I've got to ask: what's the labor charges for all this?? Seems I price my boxes OK, then the labor is what kills the whole deal. I'vegot Lifesaver and in my "specials" area have labor charges for "shadow 1" and "shadow 2", shadow 2 being double the charges for those extra-fancy projects. But just curious: seems to me this would be at least a two-hour project with about $120 in labor. Am I close, way off, or too cheap???
 
In the last 2 shops I worked in, they charged a flat $100 for shadowbox labor, both shops took about 45 minutes to mount an average jersey and construct the matboard "walls". (this is without extra openings or attachments)
The average fit fee was like $75 - $120 if I recall correctly. Both of these shops did not review their labor price scales every year. I have yet to price this all out myself to know how effective these prices are.

BTW. the guy that pinned his shirts, also constructed the walls by peeling the colored paper from the mat, wrapping it around the foamcore walls (like a present) using ATG. It looked great as you won't see the white edges of the matboard peeking out from the lip of the frame if the walls were to loosen up.
The other shop, sewed their shirts directly to the matboard using Fishing wire! and the stitches were an inch WIDE! placed on the shoulders, 2 each on short sleeves, and about 4 on the body... I always thought it looked terrible, but they never had any complaints from customers, maybe they didn't know any better!
 
RoboFramer said:
Ok, when I said 'we' .........

If I'm doing it (not if I can help it!) I'll use thick parts of the garment like the hems around the sleeves and neck and either pass the needle through without coming out the front or simply catch an existing stitch.

Iron-on and emroidered motifs are other areas that the needle can go through without passing through to the front. But if you pull them too tight you may see a pucker.

Pat seems to be able to do it most anywhere though.

Look at a trouser/skirt hem - stitches inside, none outside.

Anyway, next time Pat does it I'll get the camera out.
Click to expand...



Jerry Ervin said:
I would really like to see that.

I'm not much of a sewer though.

I live by my AttachEZ.
Click to expand...





There's a stitch here and this is closer than the eye can focus, you still can't see it because .......
smowetc020.jpg


smowetc022.jpg




Shows better black on white - the needle goes through the fabric but not all the way...................................


smowetc025.jpg




and this is black cotton sewn through the same thickness white cotton!


smowetc026.jpg
 
John, your technique would be fine for stitching that suffers little stress - such as a dress hem or pants cuffs. For a framed garment, this might be a good way to hold sleeves, collar, or other lightweight parts in certain positions.

But if a whole garment's weight is supported that way, I think most fabrics would be damaged by the sewn threads pulling on only a small number of the weave's threads, as gravitational stress works all the time.

A formed support/filler board provides the best support for a garment. The attachments -- whether thread or Attach EZ, come through the back of the mount board, through the back of the garment, and through the support/filler board. Thus, the support/filler board is securely attached to the mount board. The support/filler board, not a limited numer of attachment points, provides the best overall support for the garment.
 
Jim Miller said:
John, your technique would be fine for stitching that suffers little stress - such as a dress hem or pants cuffs. For a framed garment, this might be a good way to hold sleeves, collar, or other lightweight parts in certain positions.

But if a whole garment's weight is supported that way, I think most fabrics would be damaged by the sewn threads pulling on only a small number of the weave's threads, as gravitational stress works all the time.
Click to expand...

Yes, I usually use a former attached as you mention .. what you are looking at IS a collar and the method is also used anywhere in the open at strategic points to prevent flopping forward and away from the former - non of these stitches are for support - sometimes I see shirts over formers that are fitted too tight - the stretching prevents any flopping forward, or helps, but to me they sometimes look 'embalmed' This method enables a looser, more natural look.

Just a method of putting a stitch wherever you wish - once the whole thing, on its former, is secured.

A formed support/filler board provides the best support for a garment. The attachments -- whether thread or Attach EZ, come through the back of the mount board, through the back of the garment, and through the support/filler board. Thus, the support/filler board is securely attached to the mount board. The support/filler board, not a limited numer of attachment points, provides the best overall support for the garment.
Click to expand...

Once the shirt on it's former is sewn (etc) in place you can also add extra stitches through the mount and the former for even more support, but carry on into the shirt with an invisible stitch as well.

If I wasn't so spoilt for choice of needle and thread I'd probably use the attach-eze for the fixing of the former (and lots more too!) But it can't do this!

(Can it? Please tell me 'No!")

I do all stitches individually, the thread is not carried on to the next stitch.
 
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