Nameplates

I'm not sure what kind of double stick tape my engraving guy uses but it is very very good. I've stuck plates on suede many times with no problem. I can personally attest to some that are twenty years old.
 
I'm not sure what kind of double stick tape my engraving guy uses but it is very very good. I've stuck plates on suede many times with no problem. I can personally attest to some that are twenty years old.
Thanks for the info.
 
I don't allow my engraver to put tape on the plate. I use scotch ATG 969. It is a very aggressive tape and thin so it won't stick up to high. Make sure that when you put the plate down it is where you want it because if you put any pressure on it at all it will not come off without damaging the mat - don't ask me how I know :rolleyes:
 
Glue two or more thumb tacks to the metal plate. (I use "Liquid Nails".) After pressing tacks thru the suede mat, put a small bead of glue glue around each tack. Before gluing the tacks, if they are too long, snip a little off.
 
....assuming that the name plate is steel and not bronze or aluminum as most are.

You are overthinking it.
Most plates come with a choice of how to attach it.

Get it WITH the adhesive AND holes for those tiny nails.
The adhesive helps hold it while you are nailing those tiny nails.

A bit of glue where the nails go will help keep the nails in the mat board.
 
I trim out an area of the suede under the plate.. and use a bit of fillet tape and silicone or another glue....
 
It amazes me how framers often try to make simple tasks as complicated as possible
:kaffeetrinker-2: Rick
My sincere apologies for suggesting a solution that you consider too complicated.

In my defence this method was a solution I used recently to retain a very old tin (1900) in a box frame along with a set of WW1 medals.

Although I have been a framer for the best part of 45 years I have only been a member of the G for a short time. The only professional training I had back in 1975 was from a very old school yet skilled framer who, even back then, advocated using the minimum of adhesive. He frequently said "all adhesive would eventually fail" and I am certain I have read some such recently.

As a consequence certain items have never been part of my workshop repertoire including silicone.

However, once again I hope I will be forgiven for my too complicated reply and I promise to keep it simple in future.

Peter.
 
....this method was a solution I used recently to retain a very old tin (1900) in a box frame along with a set of WW1 medals....

Hi, Pete. Thanks for clarifying, and that sounds like a great use of magnets! If you have photos and can find the time, would love to see pics in the frame design section. And please keep sharing here. We're glad to have you around. :)
 
I'm one who does use adhesives with title plates. Have ordered from Mountain Engraving in Montana for 28 years, with only two fails in that time. Both on suede mats. They use something stronger than ATG tape.
 
I get plates from a local trophy place. The Adhesive they provide is fine and very aggressive. You better line it up exactly because you can't remove it without damaging the mat once it's applied. No sense over thinking this.
 
I use ATG Turbo glue from Frame Specialties. Allows a bit of maneuvering. I carefully weight it. No problemo.

When I counted on the tape put on my my platemaker, I have had failure problems.
 
Trimming the suede off the mat is a good idea and I also burnish the mat paper that is now exposed as pulling the suede off frays the paper and burnishing it pushes it flat and makes for a better substrate for the adhesive.

Peter, I was only singling you out for the magnets, which wouldn't work on almost ALL of the name plates made out there as they are all brass or aluminum...not for overthinking.
Personally, I love using magnets where it can hold something without any visible means. I used a pair of cobalt magnets to hold a large sword in a case and it was "floating" in there!! 👍
 
Shayla, thank you for your kind words.

Over the last few months I have had the honour of framing three sets of medals including the set of seven I mentioned.

Along with a couple of reproduced photo's the customer wanted the tin included in the frame because that's where the medals have been kept for over one hundred years. He also wanted to be able to remove and wear the medals on occasions. Because the original ribbons were in such a poor condition, new ribbons were obtained and the old tattered ones are kept in the tin.

To make it easy for the customer to remove the medals they are not fixed but hung on formed rods shaped in to small hooks in the frame along with the photo's and tin held in place with the magnets, very secure and removable. A second glazed frame slides over the first frame and is easily removed.

Most of the methods used in this job have been unashamedly copied from Mr John Turner to whom I have great respect.

Although I have a copious amounts of photo's of this job and all other work carried out since returning to framing, I have not yet mastered the art of up loading photo's. When I do I will be delighted to show you the frame design.

Peter.
 
Although I have a copious amounts of photo's of this job and all other work carried out since returning to framing, I have not yet mastered the art of up loading photo's. When I do I will be delighted to show you the frame design.
Peter.

I would really like to see the photos.
I'm a 50 year framer and I've done many military framing jobs.
I have worked for a company where we framed a lot of WWII military aviation pictures from the UK , the USA and Canada.
I still work for a company where one of our customers has an aviation company and he collects WWII photos, leather jackets, medals, etc.
He has followed me from the previous company that I worked for and he still brings in his collection of aviation photos and memorabilia.

I'm not a computer genius by any means but maybe I can help you post the photos.

What I usually do is put the photos on the computer desktop,
You can also take a screen shot and crop or modify the size if needed.

Then when you post you can click on the "Attach files" at the bottom of the post and find your pictures on the desktop and click on "full image" to post.
Screen Shot 2019-12-20 at 1.37.06 AM.png

Sometimes the file is too large to post on the Grumble so I just take the screen shot and reduce the size and then it will post.
I hope this helps.
I'm a much better framer than I am a computer tech guy...:icon11:
 
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However, once again I hope I will be forgiven for my too complicated reply and I promise to keep it simple in future.

Didn't mean to single you out, Peter. Indeed, magnets are a great solution for certain mounting situations in framing. However, I wouldn't use them for mounting nameplates. Actually, it was the thumbtack idea that sounded a bit "overkill" to me.
:rolleyes: Rick
 
Tuff Tape. You can get it from an engraving supply company or ask your engraver to use it. You can also request plates engraved on brass-plated steel which will enable the magnets to work. For long-term use, this is preferable.

The standard plaque/trophy tape does not have enough tack to hold well on suede boards. You can supplement it with some drops of PVA and that will usually hold. The pressure of the glazing produces some friction which also helps. Using silicone will also work but it takes a long time to set and can run onto the board easily.

Relying on adhesives exclusively is risky, though I have never had tuff tape or the tape & PVA solution fail int this circumstance.
 
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