Multi opening and black core tip

B. Newman

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Joined
Sep 5, 2001
Posts
4,855
Loc
Kodak, Tn. USA
For those who still cut multi openings by hand I found this neat trick today. I have been laying out the top mat (as per Brian Wolf's book) by marking both outer and inner lines on it with the lines extending to the edge so as to see them with the inner mat blank in place. I was getting confused as to which lines were which until I noticed a red pencil lying on the table. I then began marking outer lines with regular pencil, and the inner lines with the red pencil. Worked great. Cut it right the first time!

As for black core mats, I have always used a white pencil to mark them. (You know, the kids needed colored pencils every year for school and nobody uses the white pencil. And since you can't throw them away....

Anyway - worked for me!

Betty
 
Somewhere along the line I got into the habit of cutting my bottom mat first when doing multiopening mats in more than one layer of matboard. I lay out my dimensions for my finished openings on the bottom mat which is temporarily atg'ed to the top mat and then I proceed to cut the mat openings into the bottom mat.

I remove the bottom mat from the top mat and then use the score lines on the back of the top mat from the first set of cuts made on the bottom mat to lay out my measurements according to what reveal I want to have showing on my bottom mat. If I want to show 1/4" of my bottom mat I lay out my guidelines 1/4" outside the scorelines that are on the back of the top mat and then I proceed to cut the rectangular openings to those dimensions into the top mat. When I have both mats finished, I carefully line up the openings in both mats and atg them together.

With ovals, I do things somewhat different. I cut my boards exactly the same size and use the stop on my fletcher oval cutter to cut each mat one opening at a time. In other words, I cut my top opening at the proper size and, before I move the stop for the next oval cut, I also cut the bottom mat to the proper size (making the proper adjustments in my mat cutter settings to allow the smaller opening in the bottom mat). After I have cut all the required oval openings, I trim about 1/16" off of all the sides of the bottom mat on my straightline mat cutter and proceed to cut all of the rectangular openings as explained earlier.

I have all but eliminated black core from my inventory but, with the introduction of the higher quality black cores, I am starting to use them again along with the colored cores. Your idea of using a white pencil is a good one, Betty. I would sand down a piece of chalk on a single bevel until I had a nice sharp edge and make my marks on the black core with that. But it didn't take too many marks until I had to "sharpen" my chalk again. I also tried white grease pencil way back in my "greenhorn" days but gave that up in favor of the chalk method.

Framerguy
 
I have done it that way Tom, but I like to do the top mat first because I use small pieces for the inner mat.

With that Gene Green oval cutter, I attach both pieces together and cut from the front, cutting the outer mat first. It works really well. The only time I cut them separate is when I do a circle or oval with a rectangle/square double mat. Man, that's a cool looking mat!

Betty
 
Fabric stores sell chalk pencils. They're just like a regular pencil but with chalk instead of graphite.

Someday I'll make a list of all the quilting supplies I couldn't possibly do without in the frame shop.

My current favorite is my see-through 18 inch ruler. It's invaluable for getting diplomas lined up straight and square within the mat opening.

When I was cutting multiple opening mats by hand, I used a WonderWheel. It's a 1/2 inch brass wheel with a hole in the center. Cut the top mat as you usually would then put it face down on the back of the second mat. With a pencil point in the center hole of the wheel, trace around each opening. Cut on the lines. Presto! A perfect 1/4 inch reveal with no measuring.

Kit
 
Kit,
I use those clear rulers all the time, the kind that are made for counting cross stitch. My favorite red one broke, and we replaced it with a blue one. Things kept coming out wrong, and I finally figured out that the ruler was 1/4 off!!!!
Needless to say, I threw it away immediately. Yikes! I dug the old one out of the trash and taped it back together!
 
Leslie - I've had favorite plastic things break too and sometimes they can be mended with that Plexi cement - mthylene chloride. Tape it together and then syringe or brush some on the break and let dry. I usually leave it 24 hrs or so.

Rebecca
 
Leslie - you're right about those blue rulers. They've been 1/4 inch off ever since they first came out about ten years ago. I don't know who manfacturers them or why they can't fix the problem. Perhaps they were intended for fishermen?

Kit
 
There's another fantastic item from the fabric store that I can't frame without, and that's a hem marker. You know, the little 6" thingie that looks kind of like a slide rule? They are great for a quick check to see if you've got the print centered, the mat marked correctly, all sorts of things.
For marking on those dark core mat boards, they make a soap stone pencil. You may have to hunt for these. Quilters use them. I got mine via mail order off of the internet. It makes a good clear mark on the board, but is hard enough that it keeps it's point really well.
 
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