Mounting tassels - any secrets or tricks?

Maryann

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Joined
Jun 28, 1999
Posts
1,674
Loc
Shippensburg, PA 17257 USA
On this quiet evening, I'm working on one of those pieces that you are thrilled about the bottom line when it comes in the door, but not so thrilled when it comes to doing the actual work. It's a graduation piece. I've mounted two sets of honors' cords, sewn in place, look quite nice, hang naturally. I have two tassels placed in the frame. I've taken single strand silk thread which matches the color of the tassels and tied it to the metal medallion (2003) and glued the thread in place behind the tassels so it can never flip up or over. Something I've never tried, it's virtually invisible. Pretty cool.
Now my question.....does any one have any neat tricks for the tassel itself. I've used a mylar strip across the bottom to keep the strands from flying everywhere but I really don't like the look. Any other ideas??? :D
 
I loop up one of the dangle threads to make a loop. Quick stitch to keep the loop closed, and then through the back to keep it in place. As long as you don't turn it over, it works swell and the color always matches. I have tried Mylar (too shiny... sorry, Jim) I have tried stitching through all the outside dangle threads ( still looks 'squeezed in') and tried leaving it alone (guess how well THAT worked...) This seems to work the best. It doesn't show too much, and of course I demo this to the customer so they know what to expect. Pity we can't dip it in something...
 
I have let the tassels hang free and counselled the customer to never move the package around. Then I put a door in the back, behind the tassel, so they can straighten it as necessary.
 
I think you can get the tassles to stick with some spirit gum glue. And if you wiggle your shoulders just right, you can even get the tassles to swirl in different directions. You'll get more tips that way. :eek: :D
 
Try sink mounting the tassel around the diploma; you can contain the tassel with thread the same color as the tassel and probably never see it.

Jack Cee
 
Y'know, there's a Mylar answer for almost every question.

To retain the loose strands of the tassel, I make a full-length sleeve of clear film, which is attached to the mount board behind the tassel. I usually pass the ends through a slot & tape them to the back of the mount board.

Make it with a large enough diameter to let the strands hang naturally, but small enough that they can't collapse & tangle if the frame gets turned upside down.

The end of the sleeve is disguised by the ends of the tassel's strands, so it's inconspicuous.

The strands have their natural appearance inside the clear sleeve, which is impossible when the lower part is retained by a wrap of thread. If the wrap is tight enough to keep the strands from slipping through, it is very obvious.

Before Mylar, I actually sewed a very fine thread loosely through the end of each strand, and tied off the thread behind the tassle. It took forever, but looked great. And it was OK in terms of preservation; the thread could be pulled out of the strands easily.
 
Maryann.

A substantial amount of the problem with "framed tassels" is created by the static of the loose nylon "strings" as the tassel hangs free. The loose tassel also flares out at the bottom as well as "sticking" to the sides of the frame or mat chamber.

And as much as I know that monofilament line and mylar bands will hold the tassel in place, they don't have the clean "natural hanging free" look that we'd like to achieve. Therefore we've found a pretty good compromise method......as shown in my "Shadowbox Solutions" Seminar.</font>
  • We first pull back the facing outside layer of strings (usually about 6-8).</font>
  • Then sew mount the core of the tassel to the substrate. We'll typically use a matching colored nlyon thread both at the head, middle and towards the bottom. Be sure not to pull too tightly!</font>
  • We then let the loose outside strings hang freely.</font>
  • We also tie down the top attachment cord of the tassel with the same matching thread.</font>
  • It is imperative to watch that any ATG used on the matting assembly can't come in contact with the loose strings.</font>
This procedure tends to work very well as it looks "natural", and does not takes hours to acheieve.

John

[ 08-10-2003, 12:32 PM: Message edited by: John Ranes II, CPF, GCF ]
 
Maryann,
The post that Kit refers to is one I started. After all those great suggestions, here's what I ended up doing. I made sure the "pocket" I created for the tossle was a snug fit so none of the strings could get pinched, and the size not to much bigger then the tossle itself. Then I simply pre-punched two small holes in the back of the pocket with a needle where I wanted to sew. Then using clear fish line, I sewed the tossle at the metal band to the bottom of the pocket. After careful assembly, I held the frame vertical and gently shook it so the strings would hang loose.

This was my son's college diploma and tossle. He's carried it from home to Minneapolis, back home then into his own appartment. Each time just a little shake to loosen the tossles and it looks fine. Go here to see the Dancinbaer Frames Scroll down about half way on the left.

Good luck

[ 08-11-2003, 12:56 PM: Message edited by: Dancinbaer ]
 
Back
Top