Mounting hockey pucks so they can be removed later by the customer


SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Feb 22, 2006
Bedford, Nova Scotia
I am currently working on a hockey jersey shadow box for a customer. She mentioned another project that eventually she and her fiance want to get done. Her fiance has collected many hockey pucks that he'd like to display in a locked shadow box. He also wants to be able to switch out the old pucks when he gets new ones to display. So, the pucks need to be mounted in a way that they can be easily changed but would hold the puck securely in place (that rules out using tulle, I would think).

I searched the archives on mounting hockey pucks and found a reference to, which makes round puck holders. This might be a possibility, but I'm not sure how easily it would be to remove the puck from the holder as it looks like it is in there pretty tight. Also, any suggestions on how to mount the holder?

Another possibility that I was thinking about is using steel rods covered with black matte shrink tubing. I'm just not sure how many supports would be needed for each puck and where the supports should be placed so that the puck could be easily removed. I'm also wondering if the shrink tubing would wear thin if the puck is replaced multi times.

As for the mounting board, would coroplast be strong enough to support the weight of hockey pucks? Not sure yet how many they want to display in one shadow box (my customer said that her fiance has well over a hundred pucks, but he would choose which ones that he wanted to display).

I would appreciate any comments or other suggestions on mounting methods. Thanks.
I did a few things for a hockey fan customer. For the puck I cut a mat opening (reverse bevel)the size of the puck and pushed the puck into the opening. No supports needed since the fit was so snug.
I found a not-too-good
photo of one of them.
Pamela, do you think the mat opening would become less snug each time the puck is replaced? I'm not sure how many times this customer would like to change out a puck, but I'm a bit concerned that the mat opening may become damaged over time and that a new puck wouldn't fit in so snugly.

Nice frame, by the way!
It was a pretty snug fit. It was a fabric wrapped mat, so I think it would wear better than paper.

Could you apply the same method to the plexi holder? Make the mat opening so the holder fits, and perhaps use Velcro to secure the holder in place. Perhaps the holder can be permanently mounted. Maybe the cap comes off so the puck can be exchanged without removing the whole thing from it's mount.
Thanks for the link to that website, Trapper. I took a look and I'll show those ideas to my customer.

Pamela, the cap of the acrylic puck holder does come off, according to the description on the website. So, I would have the option to permanently mount the holder and then the customer can just remove the puck from the holder.

Thanks for the suggestions.
You can make removable puck mounts that are almost invisible by using "tubes" made from clear polyester film strips.

First, for each puck, cut a round hole in the mount board slightly larger diameter than the puck.

Overlap the ends of the strip of film at least 1/2" and use 3M #889 double-sided tape to join them together; put that seam on the bottom. Diameter of the tube should be slightly larger than the puck, and its length (width of the strip) about 1/2" longer.

To hold the clear film "tube" to your mount board, make multiple 1/2" slits in one of the strip's edge with a razor blade, creating a flange, which may be folded and taped to the back of the board after you slip the tube through the round hole.

Space the glazing carefully, so it keeps the puck from falling forward, and the backing board will keep it from falling out the back.

Using turnbuttons on the back, the customer can open the frame, remove/replace the pucks, and then reclose.
Here's another thought:

If this job involves more than a few dozen pucks, maybe you could locate a thin-wall, clear acrylic pipe that would be slightly larger inside diameter than the pucks. Your acrylic fabricator could cut round holes in a sheet of clear acrylic and cement the slices of acrylic pipe to it. Your backing board would provide color for the mounting board.

This design would work the same as the clear film mount described above, but it would be more durable and more costly.
That is a very interesting mounting method, Jim. The 'clear film' expert strikes again.

A few clarifications, though:

Space the glazing carefully, so it keeps the puck from falling forward, and the backing board will keep it from falling out the back.
When you say to space the glazing carefully, is it actually touching the puck, or how far away from the puck would the glazing have to be to keep it from falling forward?

My customer indicated that her fiance wanted a locked shadow box, so I was thinking the frame would have a front that would be opened/closed/locked. With your instructions, the puck replacement would occur from the back of the frame. Is there a way to have the back locked instead of just using turnbuttons, or could your method be adapted to change the pucks from the front?

Just read your other suggestion regarding the clear acrylic pipe - that is another good idea. I believe there will be more than a couple dozen pucks to mount...

Yes, you could open a hinged front and have a solid backing board. The glass of the front frame could come within 1/16" of the mounts without touching the pucks when they are in place.

The glass (or acrylic, which is half the weight of glass) does not need to retain the pucks -- they should rest easily in their mounts. The glazing just needs to be close enough to keep the pucks from falling out of their mounts (forward) in case the frame is moved with pucks in place.

After thinking about this for a while, I think the clear film mounts may be better. Strength is not an issue. I suggest experimenting for an hour or so, rolling & taping some strips of clear film into tubes. The hardest part would be slitting & taping the flanges through the holes, to the back of the mounting board.

The slices of acrylic pipe would be more visible than clear film, and would probably cost a great deal more, even if you pay yourself generously.
Thanks for the clarifications, Jim. I will experiment with the clear film mounts. I don't expect this project will go forward until later in the year, so I'll have plenty of time to experiment and work out any kinks. I agree that the clear film will be less visible and I'm sure cost will be somewhat of an issue for the newlyweds as well...

Thanks, Pamela and trapper for offering your suggestions - I'll be able to have a few options to run by my customer.