Mounting guns ?

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DTWDSM

DTWDSM

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
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Feb 19, 2002
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Had a customer bring in 2 dueling pistols from 1840's and wants to have them framed so he can take them out of the frame at any time.

I will be using 2 frames with barrel hinges but want to know the best way to secure them in the frame so he can take them out when needed.

Looked at Mighty mounts but don't think that they will work. Top one will be mounted with barrel pointing right and bottom one will be upside down with barrel pointing left. This is how theywere packed in a box back in the day.

Any Ideas????
 
Tim,
How about mounting them on a thin shaft (maybe aluminium rod, you might even be able to get acrylic rod in the right dia ?) and just sliding them on ?
Gravity should then do its thing.
The rod could be bent suitably, come through the backing, etc, so all you have to worry about is securing to the back of the package somehow.
It might also be a good idea to wrap the rod, if a metal, in a soft material to avoid damage / scratching to the inside of the barrels.
Hope this helps you find a solution.
 
Tim -
Why not frame them like they were packed in the box - "back in the day"?

I would use foam core as a "sink" covered w/ velvet and angle the bottom out about 30 degrees. Hinged glass front to make for easy access.
 
We use 1/4" bolts cut to the correct length; one inserted in the barrel and one below the trigger guard, bent to hold. Then can be tightened with a nut to the desired tension. They can be moved to remove the weapon. Paint them black or cover with a material used by electricians that is made of black rubber. Mighty mounts are not substantial enough to be dependable.

Jack Cee
 
Tim,

I lean toward McPhoto's idea but never liked that slant board stuff.

When I have done guns in the past, I do a "extra-firm" foam sink mat. This will always spring back when the customer mauls it getting them dueler out. :D

The secret as to why they stay there; is in the tiny "rare-earth" maganets. These must be aligned to the gun before placement under the fabric and best inset into the backer board such as 1/2" Baltic Birch plywood.(very stable)

Place maganets one one barrel about 3/4 toward end and one near the back of barrel. Another near the rear and on on trigger guard.

As you have figured out, there is some preliminary constuction needed to block up this maganets so the gun isn't tipped barrel down.

Once the "stand-off blocks" and maginets are securly glued. Cut out the recess in foam. Then align the foam over the stand-offs and cut out holes to go over maganets and standoffs.

When everything aligns perfect, then you can glue down the foam to the backer and standoffs. Paint down the entire board and standoffs with Frank's Fabric Adhesive and the back of the foam. Possition and squish a bit. Let dry about 2-3 hours or overnight.

Then I roll some Frank's Fabric Adhesive on the foam and 'plop' the suede or felt so that there are wrinkles just like in the "box". Now with the guns wrapped in saran wrap for fingerprint protection, lay in the inserts. The foam should come up just a little less than 1/2 way, so as not to interfer with the look of the guns, but infer that they are still packed as "back in the day".
 
I would use formed rod mounts, so that the guns actually stand off the mounting board surface.

Most such guns would be adequately supported by three mounts made of .055" diameter "piano wire", aka music wire. I'd place a mount near the end of the barrel, one in the trigger area, and one more wherever it would secure the gun gently. For example, if the barrel is light and the handle is heavy, perhaps the barrel should fit between two mounts -- one above and one below. Or perhaps the third mount could be around the hammer on top of the gun. Placement dep[ends on weight, balance, and shape -- just be sure to give it good overall support.

Placing a rod into the barrel might cause some damage, as the inside of a barrel is usually a carefully-finished surface.

You'll need two strong pliers to bend the rods, or perhaps a vice and pliers. After the mounts are formed to fit the contours of the gun, cover them with shrink tubing and secure them between the flutes of a 10 mm Coroplast mount board. Finally, cover the board with a complementary fabric.

For the frame design, you might find it easier and less costly to construct a "slider" frame. That is, an inner frame containing the mount board, attached firmly to the wall, and an outer frame that simply slides over the inner frame.

To remove the gun, just slide off the outer frame, which would have the glass silicone-glued into it. No hardware. The inner frame could be as simple as a standard deep, fabric-covered liner, which has an unfinished, flat outside surface.
 
Speaking of glazing for deep frames, check out Tru-Vue Museum Optium Acrylic. It is Cyro OP-3 with the same coatings Tru-Vue puts on their Museum Glass. Bonus: The coatings make anti-static properties similar to glass.

Showcase Acrylics (Gemini Moulding in Chicago) has learned how to make acrylic boxes with it, which requires some fancy work, as the coatings would prevent adhesion, and the watery liquid adhesive they use should wick under the coatings.

It's amazing how clear it is, and lightweight, and shatter-resistant.
 
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