Question mounting carved leather
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Franchesca
CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
I have a 10" circle of leather, beautifully carved out with oriental markings and dragons. Just wondering how to attach this to a rag or leather mat for framing?
If floating I'd look into Attach-EZ and/or plate hangers. Second option...design a sink mat. If client wants to see edges then...cut a hole the size of your leather into some 8 ply or foam, wrap with fabric then press leather into place. Simple, neat, clean and no glue! Just rely on the tension. Third...If client doesn't mind a bit of overlap...I'd cut a sink mat then a top mat to just cover the edges of the leather and then wrap with fabric. I'd glaze it so the latter is ideal to allow space between leather and glass. Otherwise, pull out the spacers! If you insist on glue just remember...Animal to animal. The natural oils in the leather will only work with rabbit skin glue or the like.
Good luck!
Saddle leather or glove leather?
preservator
SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Is it leather or raw hide? If it is actually carved, it may be raw hide, while leather is more likely to be punched. Leather may not support itself (as Wally's question infers), while rawhide may be more reponsive the extremes of relative humidity.
Hugh
Hugh
Hugh, would this be a possible candidate for an Optium Acrylic overlay mount? That is, a sink mount using the acrylic with just enough pressure to hold it in place, and a frame with insulating backing.
If the frame were hung in a climate-controlled room and protected from direct sunlight, would there be any particular issues about using leather in direct contact with the optically-coated acrylic?
If the frame were hung in a climate-controlled room and protected from direct sunlight, would there be any particular issues about using leather in direct contact with the optically-coated acrylic?
preservator
SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Jim's idea has real merit. Acrylic sheet, like sheet polyester (Mylar) has little condensation potential and can be useful in a contact mount, as Mylar can.
Hugh
Hugh
CAframer
SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
We have found when using leather mats that any contact between glazing and mat creates myriad "spots" - not usually evident when first assembled, but appear a day or two later - thus we always use spacers with leather mats. A possible risk with the overlay approach discussed here, perhaps?
Rebecca
SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
I think Jim is describing a pressure mount, which are often used with textiles. http://64.180.110.181/preview/Conservators/02-2004/conservation02-2004.html
I've not heard of leather being displayed against acrylic; there might be some abrasion or uneven pressure issues depending on the type of carving.
If the leather is rigid, which seems likely since it is carved, you could do a sinkmount with window mat covering edges which would give some support but no undesirable pressure.
Good Luck!
Rebecca
I've not heard of leather being displayed against acrylic; there might be some abrasion or uneven pressure issues depending on the type of carving.
If the leather is rigid, which seems likely since it is carved, you could do a sinkmount with window mat covering edges which would give some support but no undesirable pressure.
Good Luck!
Rebecca
preservator
SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Pressure, especially strong pressure would be a problem, as would abraision. When works of art are in contact with acrylic sheet, and they move, it is usually the acrylic that gets abraided, yeilding a powder of methacrylate, which can get into the interstices of the object. If the artifact was supported by a sink and needlepunch polyester batting, its contact with the acrylic thus, pressure and abraision could be minimized.
Hugh
Hugh
Thank you, Hugh and Rebecca, for sharing your knowledge with us.
Andrew, the spots you see are probably caused by off-gassing from the mat. We see this with some fabric-covered mats, too. When we frame canvas paintings or giclees with glazing, a foggy-looking film may develop within months (or even weeks) after the framing. Direct contact of glazing with the art is not necessary for this to occur. It seems the chemical migration that causes the films and/or spots to form on the glazing can migrate over at least 1/4" air gap.
My solution has been to disassemble, clean, and refit as needed. I offer that service for my shop's framing at no charge to any customer who requests it. I guess this sort of fogging/spotting of the glazing could continue for some time, but probably would diminish eventually. In any case, it probably does no harm unless it is associated with some kind of unfortunate, unusual chemical reaction going on inside the closed up frame package.
Andrew, the spots you see are probably caused by off-gassing from the mat. We see this with some fabric-covered mats, too. When we frame canvas paintings or giclees with glazing, a foggy-looking film may develop within months (or even weeks) after the framing. Direct contact of glazing with the art is not necessary for this to occur. It seems the chemical migration that causes the films and/or spots to form on the glazing can migrate over at least 1/4" air gap.
My solution has been to disassemble, clean, and refit as needed. I offer that service for my shop's framing at no charge to any customer who requests it. I guess this sort of fogging/spotting of the glazing could continue for some time, but probably would diminish eventually. In any case, it probably does no harm unless it is associated with some kind of unfortunate, unusual chemical reaction going on inside the closed up frame package.
JbNormandog
SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Jim,
I think the spots Andrew was refering to are similar to the spots when a photo is against glass. It looks like the spots are almsot wet.
I have had similar spots happen when using the leather mats against glass. I got tired of using spacers for a mat when a mat was supposed to eliminate the need for spacers.
Bob
I think the spots Andrew was refering to are similar to the spots when a photo is against glass. It looks like the spots are almsot wet.
I have had similar spots happen when using the leather mats against glass. I got tired of using spacers for a mat when a mat was supposed to eliminate the need for spacers.
Bob
shopmonkey cpf
CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
i recently framed a leather cut-out floating on a platform in acrylic box.
i attached with "tacks" of thread in several places spanning narrow points between cut-out areas. it came back a coupla weeks later as wavy, and diestorted as anything i have ever seen! we unattached it, and after a few days has relaxed mostly flat again. still debating how to attach to avoid the problems of buckling...
i attached with "tacks" of thread in several places spanning narrow points between cut-out areas. it came back a coupla weeks later as wavy, and diestorted as anything i have ever seen! we unattached it, and after a few days has relaxed mostly flat again. still debating how to attach to avoid the problems of buckling...
CAframer
SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
That's correct.
Don Diego
Grumbler
Howdy:
I work with and carve leather. I'am sure the edges of the carving are finished and polished if it was done right.
My suggestion is to apply white glue (carpenters)to the back of the leather and place on and 8 ply white rag board. Cut a round mat and place over, place a spacer between round mat and glass or acrylic that's it simple and elegant. Keep in mind that leather is flesh so it reacts like wood expand and contract. Hope this help.
I work with and carve leather. I'am sure the edges of the carving are finished and polished if it was done right.
My suggestion is to apply white glue (carpenters)to the back of the leather and place on and 8 ply white rag board. Cut a round mat and place over, place a spacer between round mat and glass or acrylic that's it simple and elegant. Keep in mind that leather is flesh so it reacts like wood expand and contract. Hope this help.