mounting antique paper dolls

D_Derbonne

PFG, Picture Framing God
Joined
Jul 12, 2001
Posts
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Loc
Middleburg, FL
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semi retired
I need suggestions for mounting some Victorian era paper dolls.
I thought about encapsulating them in mylar but customer didn't like that idea.
I'm framing 3 different groups of them and I need to attach dress and hat to one of the dolls.
Any and all suggestions would be welcome.
I don't think they are extremely valuable but preservation is a consideration.
 
I would consider 'sewing' them down with loops of invisible thread around their necks, legs, etc. That would work if they needed to be displayed lying flat against the background. You could do 3 separate frames (one for each grouping), or 3 hinged together (could sit on a tabletop later) or one long frame with 3 windows in a mat, raised so dolls are dropped slightly below).

Have fun, it sounds like an interesting project
 
Please 'xplain invisible thread.
I can't quite picture any kind of thread that wouldn't be visible.
Please remember I am relatively new to this business, blonde and not as young as I once was. So be kind when you answer.
 
Ok, I'll speak slowly and use small words ;)

It's a nylon-type thread that is similar to fishing line, only much thinner. It's clear, which makes it virtually invisible. Only drawback is it can drive you to drink at times; it's like trying to sew with hair :(
 
Hmmm...shame the customer doesn't like the idea of encapsulation, since that would be one of the best ways to handle them. Did he or she say why?

Anyway, assuming you can't make that horse drink, why not just hinge them with mulberry paper and wheat starch paste? They are made of paper after all, and that's the best way to hinge art on paper.

"Invisible thread" is nylon fishing line. Its use here is definitely contraindicated. It's not resilient at all, and would cut into the paper. I really don't care for its use in mounting anything for that reason, and the fact that it can cut into objects mounted with it, and it can stretch. I'd rather leave it in the tackle box. And leave the silicone in the tool box while you're at it.

Ach, so ein schlimmes Ding, das unsichtbare String
 
I wasn't suggesting that you strangle those poor dolls with the nylon thread! :eek:

If you loop the thread loosely enough around the neck for example, it wouldn't sever their heads, and still would keep them in place if it was also done around their waists/legs (again, not tightly). If it stretches slightly, so what? Paper dolls aren't heavy; they won't cause the thread to stretch a great deal. :rolleyes:

...but then I don't work in a real frame shop ... lol
 
If they're sewn on that loosely, the poor dears are going to flop around. Besides, gravity is going to pull them down, causing the thread to cut into them.

...but then I don't work in a real frame shop ... lol
Don't set me up like that. :rolleyes:
 
Do you actually know what a paper doll is, Miter Man ??? :confused: How much gravity could one of them possibly exert? There must be someone on here that can do the math...

I'm baiting you MM... without fishing line ;)

Muuuuuuaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!
 
Looks like a starch paste job to me. I do think any thread could easily cut the paper -- especially on the clothes if not the dolls themselves. Often the clothes have been printed on something almost as perishable as newsprint so they may be very brittle.

I have been known to make 1/4" necklaces & bracelets out of mylar to "sew" a piece down--but doubt I'd do that on this job. I'd say a tiny dab of starch glue on those bending tabs to insure the dress & hat stay on should do the trick for the clothes.

Might be fun to make mat board cut outs about the same shape as the dolls and hinge to that. As I recall, the dolls are usually some type of cardboard that is much heavier than the clothes, but it might be good to strengthen support with the cut outs. This could then be elevated from the background so the dolls are floating a bit.

Have fun with this project.
 
Yes dear, I know what a paper doll is.

The greatest problem comes when or if the frame is dropped. Without going into all the physics and numbers, the force on the dolls when it hits the ground and undergoes sudden negative acceleration is much higher than what is normally experienced by the pull of gravity. When the poor dolls hit the ground, they want to keep going. The invisible thread doesn't. So what happens is that the dears get decapitated. And we all know that isn't pretty.

Thus, the hinges. They act as a mechanical fuse, if you will. They bear the brunt of the fall and rip exactly as they are supposed to. If they were too strong, like the nylon thread is, you'd have nice little chunks of Haensel und Gretel attached to the background while their little bodies writhe in the bottom of the frame.
 
...I guess you'd have to use some rice paste to stick 'em back together then, wouldn't you..? ;)

I suppose if they were my paper dolls, and I was so worried about their preservation, I wouldn't drop them :rolleyes:
 
oh, I just had a brainwave (yep, once a year I get one, it's out of my control
)

Why not build a small ledge underneath the feet of the dolls (hidden under the mat), that way if your customer feels a sudden urge to hurl the frame across the room, their bodies will be supported at the bottom and won't drop to their demise... :cool:
 
Just a note in case you all did not know. Nylon thread or monofilament line also stretches over time.

UM, You might want to consider some of these forums as brainstorming where ideas are not rejected until all have expressed them. Otherwise some folks will be discouraged from expressing their ideas. In addition there is no need for sarcasm we are all adults here. In fact, I know that Mitreman has been in the business for a long time and his ideas are very correct. Perhaps we can agree to disagree once in a while without being right or wrong or feeling the need to defend ourselves through sarcasm.

By the way I think building a shelf can present it's own set of problems. One of which is the impact effect of something directly below the object if a piece should be dropped. Not to mention the esthetics and the cost issues.
 
Point taken, Artlady ;) I did think we were getting carried away there...but it was fun.

I don't know if I can exist without sarcasm...
I may have to keep my hands off the keyboard from now on :(
 
UM, don't do that. You add a little life to the party. I enjoyed the sparring between you and MM. And how else would we have found out about Max und Moritz? I do think they are creepy though.
 
Well, wouldn'tcha know it, we just framed some lovely old paper dolls last year. The frame size was something like 12" x 60"- it was fun on top of fun once we finished it!
The dolls had sentimental value, so we went the starch paste and mulberry paper route. We had to "clothe" a few of them as well. Several little hinges did the trick. The whole line-up of them were mounted to a linen backer-- we hinged the wee gals to 2 ply rag and then PVA'd that to the linen. Or was it the other way around? Well, you get the idea. I suppose the fishing line could work, but the wheat paste hinging was so fast and effective, I wouldn't even mess with a needle and thread on this one.
Then we used some creamy delicious Roma frame, with one of those sexy scallopey LaMarche fillets- was it ever a charmer when it was done.
good luck!
edie the fg
 
Thanks for all the input. I think I'll opt for the hinging method described. Besides the stretching of the monofilament I could live without the extra aggravation Unframed mentioned.
 
Deb,

You didn't elaborate on the customer's resistance to using Mylar, but I might assume that it's the "wrapped in plastic" appearance that is an issue.

During my recent trip to Australia, I was giving a program on "Shadowbox Framing Solutions" in which I learned something from a veteran Victorian framer, Neville Crawford. He creates small "brackets" of MylarD to hold items such as you're framing.

By cutting small slits around the item to be held with a straight line mat cutter (bevel side), you are creating slots for the 1 inch mylar strips to pass through. The Mylar strips are created with lengths of mylar about 1-1/2 inches in length. (Rounding the corners takes the sharp corners away and will facilitate them passing through the slots.) These strips have been folded with about 1/8 inch over at one end of the strip. They can then be neatly slid into the slots and taped from behind the matboard with 3M's 888 tape. All that is visible from the front are small 1/8 x 1 inch "tabs" holding the perimeter of the artwork.

It's a very slick and secure method. James Miller, "The Mylar Man" gives a program on creating mounts from Mylar and may already be familiar with this technique, or may be able to elaborate on variations.

If you have any questions, please feel free to drop me a note.

John
 
I've actually done a set of these before for myself. I collect old paper things. If the dolls themselves are fairly sturdy like mine are. Approx. the same thickness as glass, I would mount them like UM said. If the actual dolls are as sturdy as mine I don't know if wheat starch would hold them. I think the invisible thread she is talking about isn't fishing line but thread used for quilting. I would only use that around the dolls in a couple of places if they are thick. The clothes definitely need to be hinged w/wheat paste and mulberry hinges. The paper is much too fragile for much else. I also added some little clothes hangers, I had shaped out of black floral wire. I have a couple of the dolls dressed and other clothes kind of scattered like they are hanging on the little hangers. If I had any gumption I would take a picture and post it. The key word here being "if". Hope this helps.
 
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