mounting a bullet - update & continued saga thereof

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printmaker

CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
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Mar 4, 2003
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Richmond Hill, Ontario, Canada
My apologies in advance for the length of what is to follow, and my sincere thanks to anyone who takes the time to wade through this posting!

IF YOU PREFER NOT TO READ THE ENTIRE POSTING, AT THE BOTTOM IS A SIMPLE QUESTION.

A while ago I posted a query regarding mounting of a bullet onto a mat. I'd forgotten about this until I got in the first sample bullets. The project is a definite go, but I won't be officially starting it for a while so any additional comments or suggestions are (as always) appreciated:

I tried a test by cutting an opening into the mat slightly smaller than the bullet (they are 45 Cal. long Colt - size of each is about .45" X 1.5").

I embedded the bullet (partially) into the mat opening, and siliconed it. It's holding quite well so far (like a rock!) :D .

I haven't tried the Tacky Glue that had been suggested - assuming that it, too, holds well, would one expect the adhesion to hold as long as silicone (or longer?)?..

I'm a bit hesitant to use a "craft" (Tacky) glue :eek: ; somehow I have more confidence in the working longevity of a "25 year" silicone, but I stand to be corrected here.

An adhesive (only if it works well!) seems to make more sense here than a mechanical tying down of the bullet(s) with either mylar or invisible thread - only because there will be over 200 of these to do, and "glue" seems to be faster and easier.

Each bullet will have been nickel-plated (no exposed lead). There is no conservation concern regarding the bullets however, once the silicone (or Tacky Glue) has cured, is there a problem with a possible continued release of harmful fumes that may damage the artwork (which will be matted in a separate opening(s) about 2" from the bullet?

Again, any comments, suggestions, criticisms or jokes (as long as they're good ;) ) are welcome.

I wish that all of Life's concerns could be this unimportant!

Thank you all, again.
 
Hi there. Someone suggested to me in the easter egg thread to encase with crepeline. It seems like it would be easy to do. My experience with having items siliconed in place is that there is a hazy outgassing that appears on the inside of the glazing after a few months. It is even worse with fabric mats. Kinda make it a hassle to have to take apart one of our frame models but at the time, I could not have been bothered to sew it in.

[ 06-24-2003, 03:42 PM: Message edited by: lise ]
 
I think mounting 200 bullets with crepeline or tulle could give new meaning to the word "tedious," but I agree with Lise about the outgassing from Silicone. It might not hurt the bullets (or it might) but it could be tough on the glass.

Once you get a system going, you'd be surprised how fast you could mount them with Mylar straps. Faster than a speeding bullet, I'll bet!

You could punch a single slot through the backing for each bullet (with an Exacto blade,) make a Mylar loop around the bullet, thread it through the slot, and secure the two ends of the strap on the backside with genuine acid-free, non-staining Framer's Tape. It would be faster to do that than to say it, except that you'd do it 200 times.

See what you've done to me, Jim Miller????

Now that I think about it, maybe the Crepeline wouldn't take that much longer, but I find the Mylar straps quicker to secure in the back and you don't have to worry about working out a thousand little wrinkles in the front.

Oh, and be sure and back the whole thing with Coroplast and hang it with WallBuddies.
 
Hazy outgassing?!?
Sounds painful and stinky!

These bullets are pretty heavy. I'd be worried about them loosening the (mylar) straps after a while.

We've used silicone, on occassion, in the past without a problem (that we know about!?! :confused: ).

We've always let it air cure for a minimum of 48-72 hours before sealing it up. Does this make a difference?

Is "Tacky Glue" any different or better?

In the meantime, I've sealed up one of the (siliconed) sample bullets in a small frame. Anyone know how long it should be before we see problems?

Thanks again!!!
 
PM,
Silicone dries very slowly from the outer skin inwards, and does take a while when the material is more than a couple of mm thick (what's that in imperial, around 2/16" ?).
If the silicone is fairly thin, under 1mm for example, you could let it cure open on a bench for a week or so, this should see most of the outgassing done.
I think silicone is probably the better glue-type material you could use, but be sure to use neutral cure silicone, as acid cure type will affect the metal casing.
Good luck with it.
 
Originally posted by realhotglass:
PM,...
I think silicone is probably the better glue-type material you could use, but be sure to use neutral cure silicone, as acid cure type will affect the metal casing.
Good luck with it.
Click to expand...
Thanks, Les. I've never heard of "neutral cure silicone" or "acid cure" silicone. I see neither term mentioned on the tube I'm using :eek: ...

How can I tell which is which? :confused:
 
Originally posted by HannaFate:
Acid cure silcone smells like vinegar.
Click to expand...
Thank you... makes sense... but,

without cutting off the tops of the silicone containers in the store to smell it (can't one get arrested for doing that sort of thing?
),

how do I tell which is acidic and which is not? :confused: ...
 
When we have to use it.... we use Elmer's Acrylic Latex that comes in clear or white and cleans up with water if you get it before it drys. It comes in bottles with screw on lids that twist open/twist closed so you can take the lid off and verify that it smells like latex paint.

When dry it has the same feel as silicone based caulks.

[ 06-25-2003, 12:54 PM: Message edited by: Rick Bergeron - CPF ]
 
And don't forget to give each one a good whack with a hammer to make sure they are properly seated in the silicone. :eek: :D
 
Originally posted by printmaker:
Thanks, Les. I've never heard of "neutral cure silicone" or "acid cure" silicone. I see neither term mentioned on the tube I'm using :eek: ...

How can I tell which is which? :confused: [/QB]
Click to expand...
Besides HannaFates correct info on the smell, you should find info on the type of silicone on the tube, sometimes in very small print.
A big tip is gutter silicone, for use on metals etc is neutral cure, while ones that say for glass are usually acidid.
Re hot glue, I have always had bad recollections of seeing a car in hot weather stopped at traffic lights, and the stick on moulds falling off while he idled there !
After some crash repair work, the repairers must have stuck them on with hot glue !
It might be important if using HG to stick anything down to advise customer not to take into hot areas, especially an enclosed car on a hot day for example.
In the main it should be alright, but you never know.
Catch up later.

[ 06-25-2003, 06:26 PM: Message edited by: realhotglass ]
 
The alcohol curing silicone is (as Les said)
intended for metals and electronics, where corrosion is to be avoided. The one problem with
it is its very short shelf life; as short as
six months. Try to find some that is fresh, since
the old stuff never sets up.

Hugh
 
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