Mount needlework with edges showing?

vquick

Grumbler in Training
Joined
Oct 27, 2003
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Birmingham, Alabama
I've been asked to frame a piece of crossstitch about 70 years old that has a decorative overcast stitch on the edge. How do I adhere it to the backing board? The fabric is very fine so stitching it would show. Is there as adhesive safe to use on fabric?

V Quick
 
The last time I did one of those, it was a little over 100 years old. I stitched it with DMC embroidery floss, the same color as the fabric. The backing was Cotton mat board.

Good luck.
 
In my opinion, ................. no.

I am no expert on cross stitch but all the cross stitch I have worked with was done on Aeida cloth or cross stitch canvas that had a definite weave to it. I don't remember all the fancy names for the different sizes of weave that X-stitchers use.

You're sure that this isn't some type of embroidery or other style of stitching that is done on fine cloth??

(I DO know how to iron my own shirts!!)
thumbsup.gif


Framerguy
 
V Quick,
Yes, this is do-able.
If the fabric is indeed that fine, the stitching WILL show. S'just the way it is. Is there a way to sneak a few tacking type stitches in amongst the decorative overcast stitches in order to 'camouflage' them?
You could also pressure mount this piece. Rebecca, this is your cue...
http://www.thegrumble.com/cgibin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=007801
I would not wouldnotwouldnot use adhesive.

edie the iwouldnotuseadhesive goddess
 
If the piece is very fragile you might sew it first to a support cloth of cotton muslin. I have used very fine cotton or silk thread sewn through near the picture or ornament snd it is virtually invisible. You can turn the outer edges of the muslin under to come just inside the edge ornament, and then mount it by stitching along that seam line. Many very fine stitches over a large area spread the stress,provide even support and eliminate sagging.
 
It;s hard to give a definative answer without seeing it, but if it is that fine a fabric and it is strong enough to be sewn you could use fine beading needles and a fine hair silk (available from Talas). The hair silk only comes in a natural off-white color. Guttermans also makes very very fine polyester thread - used for hems etc. by tailors - an a limited color selection. I would stitch it to a washed backing fabric and then mount the backing fabric by wrapping the edges around matboard. I prefer to run the stitches perpendicular to the edge of the mounted textile so they do show but, if the thread is fine enough, not much.

Re adhesives, you could use strips of pressure sensitive/heat sensitive tissue made from thin Japanese paper and Lascaux HV 360 (available from Talas too). Lay the tissue on a sheet of polyethylene, brush with the adhesive and let dry. If necessary, flip and brush the reverse after drying, to make it double sided. Cut strips as needed. But make a note on the reverse of the mount as to what you have used so that it doesn't confuse the next framer or conservator.

Hope this helps.

Rebecca
 
Originally posted by Framerguy:
I don't remember all the fancy names for the different sizes of weave that X-stitchers use.

There are no fancy names for different sizes......

Generally cross stitch is done on a fabric, such as aida which has a 'count' - holes per inch or HPI - 14 count is basic, 18 is about max. then you are into different fabrics, but still with a 'count'

Then you get into fancy names like hardanger, laguna etc.

V Quick - adhesive of any sort is a no-no. Support sewing is good. Whether you sew it onto a separate piece of fabric and then sew that onto matboard or use that to ligtly 'stretch' it. or whether you sew it directly onto matboard will depend on just how fragile it is.

But you do not have to make any stitches visible. Look at the back, can you go through the back of some stitches/ esp where they are cast off, without coming out the front of the work? Needs to be in enough places to spread the load out, so that the fabric is not 'hanging' on any of your stitches.
 
Now the REAL question: is the customer willing to pay for this labor, special purchasing of special supplies, etc? Better make sure before you attempt this. And be prepared for tons of labor time esp. if it's your first venture Like shadowboxes, easy to eat up labor time which equals profit on the job
 
The best method I've seen is a "fine mesh overlay", as described in Picture Framing Magazine, May, 2005, page 49.

This method is not difficult or expensive, there's no sewing involved, and uses commonly-available materials (except the Stabilitex). It is also non-invasive, supportive, and completely reversible.
 
RoboFramer... Sorry to say it, but Stithery fabric DOES have LOTS of names. And it goes from about a 6 count fabric, to about a 56 count. The 56 being a fine mesh used for silk thread embroidery, and EXTREAMLY hard to mount.

As for old stitchery smaplers, they can (and have been) stitched on almost any kind of fabric, not just fabric designed FOR stitchery. Most often it was on linnen for making pillows and such.

Some old samplers are on an evenweave, but others are not. I have seen stitcherys on anything from Burlap, to fine silk mesh.

As for mounting these things, they all depend on the age, strength, and size of the fabric.

If you think that this one is ready to fall apart, it might not be sutable for framing.

As Ellen says, "Take what you can use, and leave the rest."
 
Quote from Susan May:

Some old samplers are on an evenweave, but others are not. I have seen stitcherys on anything from Burlap, to fine silk mesh.

Sue, I remounted and reframed a sampler that was originally done over 150 years ago and it was done on, believe it or not, perforated heavy paper!! It had a letter with it from the young lady who did the piece, it was a practice piece that her mother had bought for her when she was 12 from the local "dry goods" store for .04&#162 to learn needlework with!

The paper "aieda" was very dried out and brittle but still holding together for the most part. The framers points cost more in the reframing than the entire needleart including the thread and labor, I would imagine!!

Framerguy
 
Jim, what is that material called and where can we find it?? I don't have PFM, can I find it on their website? And does the article describe what vendor it might be available from? Is that Stabilitex?
 
Originally posted by Susan May:
RoboFramer... Sorry to say it, but Stithery fabric DOES have LOTS of names. And it goes from about a 6 count fabric, to about a 56 count. The 56 being a fine mesh used for silk thread embroidery, and EXTREAMLY hard to mount.

I was saying there is no name for the different SIZES of fabric, not types of fabric.

I listed a few - we sell the lot.
kaffeetrinker_2.gif
 
Originally posted by Val:
Jim, what is that material called and where can we find it?? I don't have PFM, can I find it on their website? And does the article describe what vendor it might be available from? Is that Stabilitex?
Stabilitex is preservation-grade polyester fabric, which may be purchased from Talas in New York - try a Google search. It comes in several colors that nearly disappear over most fabrics.

Crepeline is a French silk organdy that is similar in texture and handling to Stabilitex, but silk is light sensitive; also available from Talas.

The PFM article may be online, but I doubt the illustrations would be available that way. I suggest you borrow a copy from a framing friend, or contact PFM to get a reprint of the whole article.
 
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