Moulding Tints

Ann G. Hepp

Grumbler in Training
Aug 27, 2002
Knoxville, TN
A moulding rep was in our shop several months ago, and he mentioned there is a line of products on the market that could be painted onto an already finished moulding to change the color of the finish. For example, take a bright gold leaf moulding apply this finish and you are able to change the finish to a much darker, aged look. This also applies to any type of finished moulding. Who knows anything about this type of product? I would greatly appreciate any input.
There is a spray stain on the market that I think is "Mohawk" brand (I am not at the store). I used to buy this from one of the local suppliers in Dallas who is no longer around, but I'm sure the spray is available from another source. It comes in wood tone colors, like umber. You can spray it on some finishes (I have had good success on gold) but others it will cause to blush (recently this happened on a dark oak from Artisan. Test, test, test!
I have a very inexpensive means of changing moulding color. I buy 3 types of filet which I color to make about a dozen different ones. Here is my secret. You know those markers you use to color the ends of frames. If you run say the dark brown over a broken gold filet... voila you have a copper finish. A black magic marker gives you mahogany finish. Play with it you will be surprised.
Ann, Marc Lizer has shown several kinds of finish altering ideas in Picture Framing Magazine. Do you take that magazine? If not, let me know. I could bring some copies by the next time I'm out in West Knoxville.

I'm not sure if this is the product that you are looking for----another framing just informed me of a product called "Gilding cream" that comes in a kit from United Manufacturers that will alter the finishes of mouldings. It seems to do a great job--you may find it worth checking out.
Anything and all you need is avail at your local hardware store.

I've got a full class made up and ready to go but I won't do any PFM classes ( or articles) until some other thing get resolved. Once it does I can get out of limbo. Limbo is fine for a short while, but now it's getting ridiculous. After all there are other outles for classes and articles. I may need to avail myself of those . . .

But Ann, the stuff I thing you are looking for is what Lance first stated.

Wax, as in Liquid wax, and in "Satin Wax" made by Watco, avail in "clear" and "dark".

If you can't find the Watco, you can get Liquid Floor Wax (it is actual wax, not the "no wax" floor goo). I think Bruce is one maker.

That'l get you the base.

Add any off the shelf Minwax stain you wish and voilla: a tint in a carrier base.

Add rottenstone a bit of rottenstone and you will get that "dusty" look.

Add more rottenstone and you will get that biblicaly aged look.

OK, forget the Wax base and just brush on some Minwax stain with a foam brush. Violla!

OK, forget the Minwax altogether. Take a spray can of Primer and hold it about 2 feet above. Spray and let it mist over the frame. Instant age, dust and tint.

I keep white, black, grey, brown, and my favorite, that "for heavily rusted metal" dark rusty red one.

If you want to bring back up the highlights just put some thinner on a rag and wipe. The primer will come right off all the highspots giving great low-lights.
Marc, in dealing with furniture finishes (which wood moulding really is) I always worry about finishes not being compatible. I've seen too many finishes "bubble up" when something different was added over them. Do you ever have any problem with that, or do you always test the finish first?

Or is it that Minwax (which I use on caning, by the way) will work over most any kind of finish?

I remember that you can use most anything over lacquer finishes, but can't use lacquer over anything else.

The Minwax is oilbased Polyurethane.

The zonker that comes and'll getcha is HotFoil finishes. Y'know, the ones that look gold, but really aren't.

The Solvents will just melt them.

A bummer to say the least.
Originally posted by Marc Lizer:
The Minwax is oilbased Polyurethane.

So, you're using the stain with polyurethane in it rather than just the oilbased stains. Right?