Moulding Depth for a Pistol

Dsigr

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Springfield, Missouri
How deep does a moulding need to be for framing a pistol? I think I made a mistake by using a moulding that is only 1 3/4" deep. How can I attach a moulding underneath the top moulding to increase the height?
 
Filler board + mountboard + object + airspace + glass = required depth

How deep is the pistol? Must be mighty small to fit in 1.3/4"!

Sounds like 1.3/4" is too shallow!

Just build a backer frame to extend ... cut same OD as cap frame ... join to cap[ frame using wood glue and some kind of mechanical fastener (brads, staples, scews) ... easiest to pin thru rabbet lip of backer frame into cap frame.
 
You can make a "back box" out of unfinished dimension lumber from a home improvement store, and stain it to match, or perhaps paint it flat black.

How much depth do you need to add? If, for example, you need to add 3/4", you could miter and join a frame made of 3/4" square stock or 3/4" x 1" rectangular stock, with inside dimensions to fit the top frame's rabbet. Attach it by nails and frame glue, and make shadowbox sides to fit the entire depth. Fit with points and dustcover as usual.
 
Or admit your mistake, call the customer and let them know your options.
1. the backer frame.
2. A more expensive moulding and not charge the difference.
3 Pass on the extra cost.
 
Another option is to use "FrameSpace" by FrameTek. That is a black plastic extrusion made for the purpose, in specific depths. Cut it with a chopper, knife, or saw. Select the one that is slightly deeper than your need, and add one or more layers of filler boards to make it a snug fit.

It has a sort of 'z' shape, which gives it considerable strength. Just screw it to the back of the top moulding.
 
I got tired of fighting moulding depths for 3D projects. I just brought my table saw to the shop and make my own extenders for each project. Its very cost effective. Being able to design shadowboxes with any moulding, not limited to shadowbox profiles, is the best. Its also very cost effective.
 
Take a class on "Stacking moulding for depth".

You might find that two mouldings are sometimes cheaper than a 3" stem.

A 1.75" depth, plus a 1" wide moulding flipped on its back and chopped to snuggly fit the rim of the top frame, will net you a 2.5" depth.
There are also some of those really ugly LJ boards that are 3"-4" wide and have maybe a 9/16" under the lip... flip those on their back, chop, join, and paint black..... bingo: custom look on a 6" deep frame at half the cost of that Roma box and a whole lot better looking than a stack of 4 boxer extenders.
 
Baer, do you have a photo example in your archives?
 
Sorry Val... no pretty pictures on file... but a fast camera and some handy Garrett samples...:D

000Stack01.jpg
000Stack02.jpg


Sorry, I didn't have any cheap 9/16" depth.... I beat Tom senseless long ago about the importance of a minimum 5/8" depth.

But with a fabric covered "Basket" mat, it doesn't matter anyway.

And at 2-3/8".... It might be enough for a small pistol or derringer.

000Stack03.jpg
 
Actually, we were faced with the same issue a few days ago. And despite having a deep LJ shadowbox frame, we needed more depth. We did as Baer just suggested and used another similar frame from the same family.

It looked even better with both frames! But I guess I was lucky finding exactly the same frame, both as a shadowbox and in 2 inch version.
 
Come on Paul, admit it; you weren't "Lucky"..... You're a trained professional who just knows how to do all these things. ;)
 
Using this method it looks like you have added the challenge of fighting two rabbit depths and finishes. I could see stacking mouldings like this as a neat aesthetic treatment than a typical way to increase moulding depth.
 
A plain matte black backer frame beneath a decorative cap frame can work well.

Here is an example that uses a Stars & Stripes Orr moulding, which on its own is very shallow. The backer in this case is a Studio matte black.

By way of background, this Korean vet had just received his medals after 50 years ... evidently the government lost the records for a bunch of Korean vets and it has taken this long to track the necessary records! This is one of a pair of different awards, both framed the same way. The medal is secured using Melinex.

IMG_0373.jpg


IMG_0378.jpg
 
Stack 'em and rack 'em

I use this method quite often with very nice results.

I have used it also on stretched paintings when the customer wants to use a particular frame that was not deep enough on its own, especially those that are getting glazed.

I even have customers that enjoy picking out the backer frame and find something more 'playful.' Several have indeed chosen a frame with some 'bonus interest' such as a chunky gold bead that pokes out to the side- very fun.

edie themorethemerrier goddess
 
To answer Jim's question: the pistol height is 1 5/8" high.

Being so inexperienced in this, I didn't realize that the moulding we picked (Studio's Elan 242-234 15/16" x 2") was not high enough.
 
And it probably won't be the last time you forget either, speaking from my own experience, but you'll probably remember more often now, huh?
 
Andrew,
I really like your backer idea, the black looks surprisingly good with the gold gilded.
I've seen framers do this here, but they gild the backer to match.

Another option that is so easy, is to think the other way, and go out front with convex glass.
See attachment pic using half rebate / half glass for a lower profile flower bouquet.

Not sure if Inline Ovals do custom size rectangles / squares etc (as we do), but it's an option that can work well to give an heirloom feel as well.
 

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Les

That's a really interesting option ... I occasionally use convex glass on spandrels but had not thought of using it the way you illustrated ... not sure if it's available here in rectangular format ... will have to make some calls!

In a similar manner I often use acrylic fronts on normal frames to handle 3 dimensional objects ... here is an example:

baseball.jpg.w300h400.jpg
 
Inline Ovals has convex glass in all kinds of shapes: Circle, oval, oblong, octagon, hexagon and rectangle... misc sizes.

And acrylic domes: oval. circle, oblong, heart-shaped, cathedral, fan and rectangle... misc sizes.

And they do "custom-bent glass", call for sizing details

Inline Ovals
1-800-456-1232
 
Andrew- that's my preferred approach too. I like that you can see the object from all angles, plus you can use any frame, regardless of the rabbet depth.

Radio.jpg

Here's a crystal radio I have hanging in the shop to show off this technique.

:cool: Rick

P.S.: I use a flange around the box opening to engage in the rabbet lip, but in his shadow box class Jim Miller demonstrates how to make a frame like this with a removeable box, using a "gravity groove".
 
Also can be good for table / shelf displays.
Case just sits through frame, rests on suede mat and heavy backing board (which is recommended packed level to the back of the rebate, and bumpons fitted).
 

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Les

That looks great.

Here is a similar one I did a while back. Larry Hagman's Stetson from the cast of "Dallas". He had signed it deep inside the crown so I fabricated an acrylic support on top of a mirrored base so that the signature could be viewed easily. Alternatively they can lift off the cover when they want to examine the hat more closely.

mvc-127s.jpg
 
I designed the support (I prototyped it in foamcore!) and then had it made in two parts (the vertical rod and horizontal "prongs" that support the hat) by Lois at Superior. I then joined the parts using acrylic solvent. And finally the tricky part I adhered the support to the mirror base, again using acrylic solvent. It was tricky because it was a one shot deal, had to be in the right spot, had to have enough solvent, but not too much. Lois made the cover.
 
Measure the overall depth of the Automatic or Revolver and allow 1/4" between the glass and the weapon and sufficient depth for the mounting board. There are several methods, which have just been described, or find a moulding with sufficient depth to do the job. We use mouldings from Foster Planing Mill in Los Angeles; they have several profiles that are unfinished. I try and guide clients to the Oak because of the strength and ease of finishing. We use waxes for finish.

Jack Cee
 
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