Help Morso Question

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troyveluz

troyveluz

MGF, Master Grumble Framer
Joined
Sep 5, 2007
Posts
875
Loc
Plano, TX
Lately I have noticed that my Morso does not cut all the way to the back of the moulding so I checked and noticed that the tip of the blades does not pass thru the plane of the fences so I checked and made sure the blades were attached properly and they looked fine. I then proceeded to adjust the bushing (as per the manual) to move the blade forward. I turned the bushing to its "maximum" forward position but the tips of the blades still does not cross the plane of the fences.
Is there another part of the morso that I can adjust or is it time to get new blades? My blades are only about 4 yrs old and I have 2 pairs that I switch back and forth while one is being sharpened. I also tried putting my other set of blades and it too does not cross the fence plane.

Thanks in advance,
Troy
 
As blades are sharpened over time, they become "less tall" and may no longer reach all the way down to the chopper bed before the pedal contacts the floor at the bottom of its travel. It sounds like you need to adjust the nut on the rod that connects the pedal to the blade head. This controls the maximum vertical travel of the blade set relative to the chopper bed. If you can picture it, the shorter the adjusted rod length, the lower the blades will travel before the pedal reaches the floor. Shorten the adjusted rod length until the point where the blade tips meet will travel just past the level of the bed. (I have a Jyden, but I would assume the Morso works the same way.)
:cool: Rick

Edit: I re-read your original post, and now I'm thinking you mean the blades don't move toward the fence enough. If that is the issue, probably a chunk of cut wood has lodged somewhere in the travel path of the front-to-back movement when you swing the lever. Put the blades all the way back and inspect that area (with a mirror if needed). Use a vacuum or compressed air to remove any debris which may be acting as a stop. You might have to revisit the bushing adjustment you made so that the blades don't scrape or even hit the bed as they come down once the blockage is removed. You want to make sure there is a gap between the blades and the bed about the thickness of a sheet of paper.
 
Rick Granick said:
If that is the issue, probably a chunk of cut wood has lodged somewhere in the travel path of the front-to-back movement when you swing the lever. .
Click to expand...

Rick,
Thanks for the input. Checking for chunks of wood and other stuff on the travel path and on the cylinder were the first things I checked. And while I was there, I also cleaned the dirt and other stuff getting caught in the lubricant.

Any other suggestions?

TIA,
Troy
 
What Rick said in his Edit.

Except, he used the word "bed"... you want the leading edge of the blade "V" to
just exceed into the backing rail.

The "paper thick clearance" in the shearing should not be more than a zig-zag's
worth of thickness. If it is more... someone has been lapping the thickness of
your blades. (a nasty habit of sharpeners who over heat the blades on a wheel
when they hollow grind - - the flattening hides the micro warping.)
 
Baer Charlton said:
What Rick said in his Edit.

Except, he used the word "bed"... you want the leading edge of the blade "V" to just exceed into the backing rail.

The "paper thick clearance" in the shearing should not be more than a zig-zag's worth of thickness. If it is more... someone has been lapping the thickness of your blades. (a nasty habit of sharpeners who over heat the blades on a wheel when they hollow grind - - the flattening hides the micro warping.)
Click to expand...

Yes Baer, that is what I am attempting to do to no avail (move the front tips of the blades so it just crosses the plane of the back fence). I am turning/adjusting the "forward movement" bushing underneath the handle.
Are you saying that my blades a "thinning" because of sharpening?

I have been using TechMark to sharpen my blades except for the last time when I tried to use Quinn saw.

Any other tips/suggestions Morso adjustments on how I can accomplish?

Regards,
Troy
 
Troy, take the blades off.

run the trudle all the way out, now grab a cheap throw-away paint brush...
(not foam)

Start cleaning that big shaft that goes in and out. . . and everywhere around it.

When you push the lever rotated all around to stop, the wedge of the "shoe",
should be inside the back rail - - and the lever should have clicked into the last
notch easily.

IF either of these is not happening, you have something still obstructing the path
or you ran the "shoe" out, instead of in. You can adjust that with out putting
the blades in.... (easier on the fingers that way.)
 
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