Morsø Mitring Machine Model F Restoration experience

[schuster]

Hello, I'm new to the forum, and I'm clueless but very enthusiastic! I have been lurking and reading stuff as a guest for a while, and what an interesting community you have here. This is my circa 1983 Morsø guillotine as found after sitting idle in a pole barn for many years. I was inspired by Matthew Moustache's epic video

To view this content we will need your consent to set third party cookies.
For more detailed information, see our cookies page.

Accept third party cookies

. and I'm attempting to bring this beauty back to life. After some cleaning, here's how she looks now. My blades are off to https://hoffmann-usa.com/ Hoffmann-USA.com for sharpening, and I'm ordering some of the missing parts. After complete disassembly, everything came back together, and I had no "extra" parts (phew). The only issue I'm having is that my knife block seems slightly off-kilter (not operating smoothly), and I have not found any tips for adjusting the slide frame guide rails -- and what appears to be adjustment hex set screws on one side. I hope to share more of my story and foray into the world of very sharp things and infinite puzzles. I am now jealous of the deluxe models and those neat measure scales.

 

[JohnOConnell]

I don't have any answers for you buy will say kudos for the hard work to bring this machine back to its deserved glory!

 

[schuster]

I don't have any answers for you, but will say kudos for the hard work to bring this machine back to its deserved glory!

Still looks grubby but getting there! Now to learn how to measure molding for this device.

 

[Jim Miller]

Still looks grubby but getting there! Now to learn how to measure molding for this device.

Nice job with the cleanup!

There should be a measuring scale on the arm extending to the right side of the cutter, and the measuring stop fastens to it, as shown in the video, around 16:29. If that scale and measuring stop are gone, you can get replacement parts.

 

[artfolio]

Those slide rails which support the rebate supports are actually knives in their own right and may need to be machined true is they have had a lot of wear. You can loosen the hex screws to adjust their position and they should be adjusted so that the blades miss them by about half of a gnat's whisker as they fall - this gives a scissor effect and leads to a tidier cut.

I did this by loosening the screws so that the plate was just moveable with hand pressure then lowering the blade. I would slide the plate up to the blade and press it there firmly then carefully back it off a fraction and tighten up. You could use a feeler gauge or very thin metal shim to get the distance but that would be overkill as it does not have to be thou of an inch precise.

The knife block and its guides are solid lumps of cast steel which should not be able to move out of whack although they may wear. if there is sticking or any other alignment problem it could be that the rod connecting it to the pedal is bent or out of position.

 

[neilframer]

Still looks grubby but getting there! Now to learn how to measure molding for this device.

Nice job with the cleanup!

There should be a measuring scale on the arm extending to the right side of the cutter, and the measuring stop fastens to it, as shown in the video, around 16:29. If that scale and measuring stop are gone, you can get replacement parts.

I have used a number (maybe 8) of Morso choppers in my 53 years of framing.
Still have one at work although we mostly use the CTD saw.
I have also used a Jyden and I owned a Hansen which is like a Morso on steroids with more bells and whistles.

All of the Morso choppers had some type of direct read measuring scale except for one very old model that I used at an old shop right near ASU (Arizona State University).
This one very old Morso didn't have a direct read scale and you had to adjust the measurement based on the width of the moulding.
All of the other Morso choppers that I have used either had an engraved scale in the right side extension or they had a colored metal plate scale.

There are peel and stick measuring scales available that can be used if needed.
I got one of these scales for a CTD D45 saw that I used that didn't have a direct read scale.
You have to be very careful when applying these scales because once it's stuck down, it can't be moved.
The only parts that you might have to check are the lever (mainly the metal tooth that engages the notched track) that moves the blades in and out and the notched track sometimes gets worn.
That handle should always be pushed down when you move it back and forth to prevent grinding on the teeth of the notched track but often people just drag the handle over the teeth which wears them down.

 

[schuster]

Those slide rails which support the rebate supports are actually knives in their own right and may need to be machined true is they have had a lot of wear. You can loosen the hex screws to adjust their position and they should be adjusted so that the blades miss them by about half of a gnat's whisker as they fall - this gives a scissor effect and leads to a tidier cut.

I did this by loosening the screws so that the plate was just moveable with hand pressure then lowering the blade. I would slide the plate up to the blade and press it there firmly then carefully back it off a fraction and tighten up. You could use a feeler gauge or very thin metal shim to get the distance but that would be overkill as it does not have to be thou of an inch precise.

The knife block and its guides are solid lumps of cast steel which should not be able to move out of whack although they may wear. if there is sticking or any other alignment problem it could be that the rod connecting it to the pedal is bent or out of position.

That is great information -- and a bonus for me because my question is about the adjustment set screw on the vertical slide rails that hold the knife block in position (can be seen in the Matthew Moustache video at about 10:57). It seems that one might snug those rails to the block and then use the set screw to back off a little bit to allow the block to travel up and down. This is just from what I could see -- most folks would probably never mess with that, I did because I needed to clean the rust. I may just play with it before I re-attach the knives. Thank you!!

 

[schuster]

I have used a number (maybe 8) of Morso choppers in my 53 years of framing.
Still have one at work although we mostly use the CTD saw.
I have also used a Jyden and I owned a Hansen which is like a Morso on steroids with more bells and whistles.

All of the Morso choppers had some type of direct read measuring scale except for one very old model that I used at an old shop right near ASU (Arizona State University).
This one very old Morso didn't have a direct read scale and you had to adjust the measurement based on the width of the moulding.
All of the other Morso choppers that I have used either had an engraved scale in the right side extension or they had a colored metal plate scale.

There are peel and stick measuring scales available that can be used if needed.
I got one of these scales for a CTD D45 saw that I used that didn't have a direct read scale.
You have to be very careful when applying these scales because once it's stuck down, it can't be moved.
The only parts that you might have to check are the lever (mainly the metal tooth that engages the notched track) that moves the blades in and out and the notched track sometimes gets worn.
That handle should always be pushed down when you move it back and forth to prevent grinding on the teeth of the notched track but often people just drag the handle over the teeth which wears them down.
View attachment 44755

I'm keen to find those peel and stick scales -- I think my lever system/teeth is in fairly good condition, but thanks for the tip!

 

[schuster]

I don't have any answers for you buy will say kudos for the hard work to bring this machine back to its deserved glory!

I read your post and I'm on a similar journey -- buying up loads of kit, refurbishing gear, and experimenting. I hope to add value to the forum some day. The other thing I did is take the LinkedIn learning course by Photographer Konrad Eek titled https://www.linkedin.com/learning/matting-framing-and-hanging-your-photographs/ Matting, Framing, and Hanging Your Photographs Online Class | LinkedIn Learning, formerly Lynda.com -- he has a lot to share!

 

[David Waldmann]

You may find some helpful tips on this page:

How to Cut Picture Frame Joints | Vermont Hardwoods

Learning how to cut picture frame joints to produce the best results is a matter of maintaining sharp knives in your chopper. Here are our tips!

vermonthardwoods.com