Help MN200 - Pistorious Double Miter Saw

Create a Post
S

skysadlo

Grumbler in Training
Joined
Jan 30, 2007
Posts
5
I am looking at purchasing a used MN200 - 12" blade saw. I have read the specifications of the saw. The official published Max Cut capacity is 2 5/8” H X 3 5/16” with 12" blades. What I am wondering is what is the actual max any one has cut with a 12" MN200 saw?

I need the saw to cut 4" wide and 1 7/8" high. Is there a way to do that with this saw if adjusted properly?

Thanks for looking at the post and any responses and thoughts you all might have.
 
There is no way an MN200 is going to cut 4" wide moulding. Pistorius made a 14" version of the MN saw and there may be some out there but there are quality issues with 14" blades. All things being equal, the smaller diameter of the blade, the better the cut. you may be able to reconfigure theMN200 to mount a 14" blade since I think all MN castings are the same, just reconfigured differently. I know that's the case with MN100 and MN200.

If cost is an issue, your best bet would be a Frame Square Rabbit saw, the Frame Square Deluxe say should work too, but I think the Rabbit saw is a better saw. My guess is any of the Prisma saws would work too; they're sold by Pam. The Frame Square and Prisma saws are all 10" saws and do an excellent job.
 
The wide head of the bolt that holds the blade in place and the arbor behind the blade is the controlling factor in those specifications.
 
You can cut moulding that is 4 inches wide with 12" blades on your saw.

When the foot pedal is depressed, the blades will come down on the moulding. If you try to continue your cut, the center hub will carved into your moulding. You can stop the blades from coming down all the way by being very careful with your foot pressure. Stop just short of the center hubs hitting and release the foot pedal.

You can carefully slide the moulding out from the saw and finish the cut with a hand saw. If you're unsure of the moulding hitting into the spinning blades, then shut off the saw and wait until the blades stop turning to pull the moulding back out from under the blades.

I use scrap mats under the cut and finish the cut right on the infeed table.

I wouldn't want to use this method all the time, but it is possible to do.
 
Yep, my Prisma CE would eat a 100mm moulding for breakfast. Better to buy a used Prisma than a museum piece like the Mn200. Not to knock it - I had one once but it can't hold a candle to a modern saw.
 
Thanks for all the input. Still just as confused but realize one thing I should do a little research before jumping on the MN200. They are only asking 1500 but I do lots of 4" molding.

For the past six years I have been doing all my larger moldings on two 12" miter saws and it has worked ok. I just don't care for the measuring system I have and would like to free up some time with a more production orientated saw.

The Frame Square needs more floor space than a straight line saw like the mn200 right?
 
Create a Post
Back
Top