Mitre Mite VN4 toggle switch not working

Jefjon

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I have a Mitre Mite VN4 and the toggle switch that engages the piston that pushes the v nails toward the block has stopped working. Sometimes it would take two or three back and forth motions with the toggle switch to engage the piston but as of yesterday it doesn't engage the piston at all.
 
I have a Mitre Mite VN4 and the toggle switch that engages the piston that pushes the v nails toward the block has stopped working. Sometimes it would take two or three back and forth motions with the toggle switch to engage the piston but as of yesterday it doesn't engage the piston at all.
Welcome to the Grumble!
Have you been putting a few drops of pneumatic tool oil into the air inlet regularly?
I am more familiar with the VN 2+1 but I think the toggle switch and piston are pretty much the same.
I have replaced a leaking piston assembly but never had a problem with the toggle switch.
The problem might be with the toggle switch or the piston might be sticking due to lack of lubrication.
You might contact Fletcher for tech support.

Is this the switch?
Screen Shot 2023-01-27 at 5.22.15 PM.png
Screen Shot 2023-01-27 at 5.35.28 PM.png
the piston..
Screen Shot 2023-01-27 at 5.34.01 PM.png
 
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I have a Mitre Mite VN4 and the toggle switch that engages the piston that pushes the v nails toward the block has stopped working. Sometimes it would take two or three back and forth motions with the toggle switch to engage the piston but as of yesterday it doesn't engage the piston at all.
As Neilframer suggested, your problem is probably a lack of lubrication. In pneumatic tools, that happens through the compressed air. Run a Grumble search for "air filter/lubricator".

Squirt a dozen drops of pneumatic tool oil (not compressor oil) into the air input port, reconnect the air line, actuate the machine 50 times, and call me in the morning.
 
Or, if that doesn't work, replace the cylinder with pusher attached; maybe about $125 with UPS delivery. It's a quick fix, if necessary. If your machine is a VN4L, Google "Fletcher/AMP underpinner parts" for this...
1674915954022.png

You might need this, too:
1674924997567.png


Lots of other parts are also available, in case you want to refurbish it completely.
 
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As Neilframer suggested, your problem is probably a lack of lubrication. In pneumatic tools, that happens through the compressed air. Run a Grumble search for "air filter/lubricator".

Squirt a dozen drops of pneumatic tool oil (not compressor oil) into the air input port, reconnect the air line, actuate the machine 50 times, and call me in the morning.
Thanks, will do
 
Welcome to the G!
 
As Neilframer suggested, your problem is probably a lack of lubrication. In pneumatic tools, that happens through the compressed air. Run a Grumble search for "air filter/lubricator".

Squirt a dozen drops of pneumatic tool oil (not compressor oil) into the air input port, reconnect the air line, actuate the machine 50 times, and call me in the morning.
Lubrication did the trick. Thanks
 
The PLV Valve (this part) on our VN4 didn't work when I first started using it 15 years ago.
It was always in the on position.
I'd use an awl to pull the piston down, and replace the v-nails, or I could do it when there was no pressure on the machine.
I replaced the Valve, and found that it was tubed (wired for tubes?) in reverse.
It worked for about a month, and then stopped in the on position.
I replaced it again, and it still didn't work.
Gave up, and went back to SNAFU.
 
Just when I thought my problem was fixed with the lubrication of the air intake; the foot pedal now won't set the pins. Instead of the two step process of half way down clamps the frame and all the way down sets the pin; the pedal just clamps without pinning.
 
Are you draining the air compressor regularly?
Do you have an air filter/lubricator on this tool?
Both are good practices to keep problems to a minimum.

I'm not sure if popping the hoses off the foot pedal, and adding some lubricant into the pedal, and then reassembling would work.

My current VN4 is more temperamental in the winter. The room it is in is unheated.
It is even more temperamental now that it is hissing non stop.
I have to find the time to do a complete overhaul.
Fortunately I purchased this V-Nailer (mostly as a test/joke):
Amazon product ASIN B00WSPG9XMIt works way better than expected.
 
Just when I thought my problem was fixed with the lubrication of the air intake; the foot pedal now won't set the pins.
When you press the foot pedal, does the driving pin's cylinder make any noise, or is it just dead? Any hissing or other evidence that air pressure is going to that part of the machine?

Since you have already established that lack of lubrication is an issue in this machine, maybe if you squirt some tool oil directly into the air lines from that air cylinder, you could restore its operation. Or, if that cylinder is simply not functioning, you can probably replace it. This might be the part that has failed:

1675273498927.png
 
When I called Vince Herrera at Fletcher and told him of the problem he suggested that the problem might be a valve and advised the part pictured on the right.. However I don't see how it can be fitted in the machine to replace the existing setup pictured. View attachment 44728
 

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Be careful if you choose to fit the Pneumax grey version as that valve is made from plastic and is of appalling quality, either purchase a like for like replacement or a valve seal kit or get the gold version of the valve recommended by Fletcher.

Regards, Mark
 
Years ago I replaced the o-rings in a couple of control valves, but eventually they stopped selling those in favor of selling complete replacement valve blocks.
:coffeedrinker2: Rick

Pro tip: old control valves make nice "high tech paperweights".
 
When I called Vince Herrera at Fletcher and told him of the problem he suggested that the problem might be a valve and advised the part pictured on the right.. However I don't see how it can be fitted in the machine to replace the existing setup pictured. View attachment 44728
Vince sent me this. But I'm still getting a constant air leak in port 5

From old valve to new valve is same port connection except for connection port 14 connects to new valve on port “P”
So it should be;
Old to New
1 to 1 (red supply line)
2 to 2 (blue tubing)
3 to 3 (blue plastic muffler)
4 to 4 (blue tubing)
5 to 5 (blue plastic muffler)
14 to P (depending on which valve its either red, white or blue)
 
I offered to help a local frame shop (since I'm retired) with their VN4 (no suffix). I found manuals for VN4L and VN4-computerized.

I am not sure either pneumatic diagram matches.

The triple stack of pneumatic valves/solenoids are different than the flatter rectangular ones in the VN2+1 we used to have. They are more squarish in the short axes. I briefly had a VN42 purchased as a back up & sold it. I vaguely remember it had larger valves, but it's gone.

QUESTION 1) I'm trying to figure out how the stacked valves/solenoids are mounted to the machine. Theirs is mounted on a floor stand and used upside down (to me) and nearly vertical. It's easier to approach the bottom because it's actually the back due to the nearly vertical angle, but not easy to see. Help?

There are a lot of bad leaks, and I found one 4mm red line popped out of a tee connected in some as-yet-not-described manner to the toggle safety lever, which they had already reported as inoperative. It was apparently stuck in 'unsafe' (allowing pneumatic operation) all the time and they used the air hose quick disconnect/connect as the safety mechanism.

I read the advice on adding oil. I had always been leery of over-oiling, and confused by one generation of manual insisting only use silicone oil, and a subsequent manual saying NEVER use silicone oil. I had used in the past some sadly named Marvel Mystery Oil or similar. (Sad for me because it sounds like snake oil). It went with the last v-nailer when I sold it, so I need to get some new oil.

I read the 2008 article here on maintenance (and lack thereof). It pointed out differences between oil requirements/compatibility in European and elsewhere machinery.

QUESTION #2: What type of oil should I use (obtained where?)
The PLV Valve (this part) on our VN4 didn't work when I first started using it 15 years ago.
It was always in the on position.
I'd use an awl to pull the piston down, and replace the v-nails, or I could do it when there was no pressure on the machine.
I replaced the Valve, and found that it was tubed (wired for tubes?) in reverse.
It worked for about a month, and then stopped in the on position.
I replaced it again, and it still didn't work.
Gave up, and went back to SNAFU.
I'd call it plumbed, but that's my word choice today. I could change my mind.

They are aware of the need to drain the compressor. Not sure how often, but they just did yesterday. The various air mufflers look awful - clogged with rust & black stuff. They are cheap and available locally. I tell myself they might not make a difference, and I could remove them as a test, but nothing makes sense logically, with pneumatic logic (to me). My worst VN2+1 problem took me 20 years to figure out. EVERY pneumatic component that moves or handles air seems to have a exhaust requirement, from releasing pressure when reducing it a regulator, to sequential valve motion missing an opportunity because it took too long, and the opportunity was lost. My worst problem was all due to the main (topside knob) air regulator leaking and causing intermittent valve operation (missed cycles). The nail driver would sometimes stay extended. It didn't retract because there was no longer a path for the exhaust. I replaced nearly everything else and finally changed that as a last resort. When you reduce regulator pressure, there is a hissing sound because it is exhausting somewhere (slots, I guess). There isn't an obvious exhaust port of a regulator like there is one or two one solenoid/valve. So the hissing due in pressure reduction is actually thru an exhaust port that never occurred to me. This makes me think I shouldn't rationalize anything being unlikely, Any restriction or failure to actuate can wreak havoc somewhere else.

QUESTION #3 ) [Should be #1]]: Has anyone ever seen a pneumatic diagram for the 'plain' VN4 (no suffix)?

I may have to make my own, but don't know who has done what to this thing over the years (possibly nothing). (Is it 'plumbed' correctly?) I still have some annotated VN2+1 pneumo-diagrams I made for myself to understand what each component did. I think that will refresh my memory regarding what prior understanding I had achieved.

I hooked up the disconnected red line and the nail feed cylinder moved a little, ONCE, with operation of the safety lever, revealing the nail-engaging pusher was detached from the cylinder shaft. I don't know if there was a set screw or a 'tubular spring pin'. Solving the inoperative loading valve/cylinder problem is fundamental because it is now stuck in 'SAFE' mode. Disconnecting the reconnected 4mm line back to the way I found it today made no difference. I think the symptoms just happen to be different/worse today. NOTHING happening other than air leaks and 0 on both internal pressure gauges tells me it is in safe mode today (no matter what). I guess the TWO internal regulator/gauge systems are for the left and right top clamp cylinders. The VN2+1 only had one.

Thanks for reading.

Murray
ex-Uptown Gallery & Frame Shop, LLC
 
Diagram attached
Thank you. Every drawing actually helps.

This drawing looks like it has 1A-1B-1C-1D solenoids/valves separated as two pairs (left & right) vs. three together on the 'patient'.

I'm shopping for exhaust mufflers and a bottle of appropriate oil that is smaller than 5 gallons. I think I'll run without mufflers until working before pushing oil ^ debris thru new mufflers immediately.

Only definite mechanical problem I have found is that the nail tray feed cylinder 'jaw' that keeps the nails pushed into position is detached from the cylinder shaft/rod, like it lost the set screw or roll pin. Set screw is more likely.

Thank you

Murray
 
Thank you. Every drawing actually helps.

This drawing looks like it has 1A-1B-1C-1D solenoids/valves separated as two pairs (left & right) vs. three together on the 'patient'.

I'm shopping for exhaust mufflers and a bottle of appropriate oil that is smaller than 5 gallons. I think I'll run without mufflers until working before pushing oil ^ debris thru new mufflers immediately.

Only definite mechanical problem I have found is that the nail tray feed cylinder 'jaw' that keeps the nails pushed into position is detached from the cylinder shaft/rod, like it lost the set screw or roll pin. Set screw is more likely.

Thank you

Murray
Oops, I mean 1A-1B-1D-1E ...wonder where 1C is (maybe it's a revision and the one I'm dealing with has an A-B-C set of three instead.
 
QUESTION 1) I'm trying to figure out how the stacked valves/solenoids are mounted to the machine. Theirs is mounted on a floor stand and used upside down (to me) and nearly vertical. It's easier to approach the bottom because it's actually the back due to the nearly vertical angle, but not easy to see. Help?
All of the V-Nailers I've ever used have been AMP, and Mounted to a stand.
The stand is quite useful (to me), but the mounting bracket covers about 25% of the access to the back of the machine.
I'd recommend removing the nailer from the mounting bracket in order to allow for easier access, and allow access to the mounting spots for the valves.
One of the VN-4s that we have has all of the valves hanging off of the machine (for likely over 2 decades), as the stand backet makes reattaching them a bit of a chore.
 
Murrayatuptown:

Sorry i inadvertently posted the later version 4 valve diagram, find attached the 3 valve version and a photo of the feed cylinder locating pin:

IMG_0551.webp

The mufflers are a 1/8" thread and should be readily available via any good pneumatics store but using the machine without them won't impact the working of the underpinner.
 

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All of the V-Nailers I've ever used have been AMP, and Mounted to a stand.
The stand is quite useful (to me), but the mounting bracket covers about 25% of the access to the back of the machine.
I'd recommend removing the nailer from the mounting bracket in order to allow for easier access, and allow access to the mounting spots for the valves.
One of the VN-4s that we have has all of the valves hanging off of the machine (for likely over 2 decades), as the stand backet makes reattaching them a bit of a chore.
Thank you A8.
 
Murrayatuptown:

Sorry i inadvertently posted the later version 4 valve diagram, find attached the 3 valve version and a photo of the feed cylinder locating pin:

View attachment 49815

The mufflers are a 1/8" thread and should be readily available via any good pneumatics store but using the machine without them won't impact the working of the underpinner.
Thank you very much, Un Sp!

I won't know unless I ask...what is the possibility of you knowing the characteristics of the (likely-metric) nail feed pusher set screw?

It is more difficult for me with the screw missing, and metric set screws being a bit less common here. Actually, The pusher might not be captive in the nail slide/tray, and it remains there thanks to gravity.

I need to actually try to lift it out upon my next visit.

Murray
 
This will bore many of you, but I have been misinformed by many people over the years what to put into an ITW-AMP underpinner if the recommended lubricant isn't conveniently available, or you don't have it , or know where to get it. But maybe this will help people realize why the directed material is so unique. I do not know whether this applies to other machines.

The oil recommended in many ITW-AMP manuals as Castrol Magna GC 32 was renamed years ago. It is now Castrol Magna SW 32. Magna SW D 32 is different. It may be for a different market. It's specs are nearly identical but it is described as demulsifying (yes, with a 'd'). SW 32 barely mentions demulsification, so there is some reason they emphasize the D.

SW apparently stands for slideway. It is NOT a silicone-based oil old manuals commanded you to ONLY use, followed by later vintages warning you to NEVER use silicone oils. It is a petroleum distillate, and a very special type. That is the reason you should not use whatever crazy recommendations people give you. It is NOT a pneumatic fluid, but it works in the Alfamacchine company's pneumatic system by design because the system was designed with the lubricant properties in mind. What is unique about it is that it is the lowest viscosity slideway, slide way, or way, oil in the Castrol product range. The 68 and 220 products will stop up your machine if it isn't already.

Slideway or way oils are used for metal working machinery like lathes and others. Apparently the moving mechanisms it lubricates in metal-working machinery move in a channel called a way or slideway. SW 32 is unique in the Magna SW product range in that is is the only one that is both a way oil AND a hydraulic oil. Way oils have a stickiness that make them adhere horizontally, and vertically, as designed for the requirements. Hydraulic fluids at tractor supply and everywhere else are NOT way oils, so those are not a good substitute, even if they are labeled ISO 32 or AW 32 or ?? 32. That just means those all have the same viscosity, but not the necessary properties.

Pneumatic tool oils are thinner, typically have higher solvent percentage, and evaporate quickly. I think they are consumed at a greater rate in the pneumatic tools where they are used than the lubricant used in our underpinners. The stickiness in way oil helps the elastomer seals in our pneumatic systems seal instead of migrate and leak, and the seals are compatible because someone chose the materials to survive with this way oil. I said earlier it is not a pneumatic oil, compressor oil, vacuum oil, etc, etc.

Many of us know someone else, if not ourselves, who has NEVER lubricated an underpinner. Ours didn't come with the recommended fluid and for unknown reasons , we didn't worry about it until we had problems.

Lubrication neglect, the daily injection of hot air with moisture that condenses inside the pneumatic system, possibly containing rust that forms inside the compressor tank (laws of physics & maybe chemistry for Ideal Gas Law that is part of the temperature change in addition to the compressor running).

So, a machine that gets neglected until it malfunctions gets a variety of treatments. Someone may get good advice on a forum like this, and get crazy advice from who knows where and substitute rationalized alternatives. These could clog components if they are too viscous, or possibly dissolve and relocate contaminants if they have more solvent properties, changing the symptoms, and evaporate, changing the symptoms further as time passes. Actions taken and where you left off in you troubleshooting may be irrelevant due to a new set of symptoms. If adding wrong, or correct, lubricant doesn't free up a malfunctioning machine, you might add more, thinking you didn't put enough in. Or you could damage the internal elastomers and valve body if a polymer type. Some one discredited the plastic body valves as having appalling quality. I'm not sure how that revealed itself. For all the other possible variables framers bring to the lifecycle of the machine, the plastic body may not be the problem. The moving parts maybe be the problem. If the moving parts are plastic too, OK, I'd be disappointed on appearance alone, but just as a personal bias.

Or, like me, you are so afraid of using the wrong lubricant, or too much, you avoid it, and start replacing parts. If you look at the replacement schedule in manuals, the solenoids/valves are some of the longest-lived components (millions of operations), but replacing them when mistreated by negligence, might help. It's easier than understanding pneumatic logic. I understand digital logic, a little but of electrical relay logic, but was absolutely baffled by their pneumatic cousin. Books & catalogs had a different breed of hieroglyphics that were meaningless to me. There is not only the in and out paths of the valves, which is easier to decrypt or have explained to you, but the timing characteristics are harder to understand.

I think that why 'replace this, replace that' advice happens over the phone. One costs the tech support company money, the other costs the customer money.

OK...what is equivalent product?

Other than the many characteristics described above, the one unique thing in all the 32 viscosity slideway oils I have found is that they conform to machinery manufacturer Cincinnati-Milacron Standard P-53. Not P-50 or P47, which are for the heavier/more viscous, non-hydraulic.

Looking for 32 viscosity slideway oil that meets Cincinnati P-53 opens up a number of possibilities, with many vendors. But it comes in 5-gallon and 55-gallon sizes.

I have spent a day and a half looking online, and even visiting local machine shops, for a small bottle, or to buy a few ounces. I found people who used Vactra No. 2, which is 68 viscosity P-50. Same day, different shit. Vactra No.1 (I forgot the manufacturer) is equivalent (32 viscosity Cincinnati P-53) but I haven't found anyone who uses it in machine shops yet. I think Gulfway 32 also met the two common specs I sought.

A 5-gallon pail ranges from maybe $160-370 but I don't enough enough people to share it with, and it's probably not something I want in my home and would have to pay to dispose of some day. It's cheap, like $0.17-0.50 per ounce in 5-gallon, but enough about 5-gallons.

Very reluctantly back to looking for the ITW product on the Fletcher-Terry website. I did not find it particularly easy. There used to be an ITW p/n for 16 oz, and a different p/n for 32 oz. They now only sell a 32 oz. (quart) bottle with the old 16 oz p/n.

Pneumatic Oil ATC855, 1 Quart (T064)​

Product Number: 04-087​

$83.16

Yeah, it costs a hell of a lot more per ounce, but I let that gripe go already. I should have done this first, but I didn't WANT to. I didn't want to waste the friend's money, so I wasted my time.
Buying this (mfr. offering) relieves concern that the 'or equivalent' proof wasn't satisfactorily met by me and my time-bandit methods.
(Don't do all this at home).
 
Tonight I ordered a quart of ATC855 under the T064 p/n 'pneumatic oil' that is "used in all (the listed models of) underpinners" per Fletcher-Terry. I don't know what ITW was providing in T064 for all those years, but I was naive enough to assume it was an equivalent to the outdated Castrol Magna GC 32 (now Magna SW 32)

Shortly later, I found ATC 855 made by Fuchs as an 'Air Lube' and cleaner. Same colors on bottle.

I found an MSDS for Fuchs ATC855 that shows it to be 26-53% solvent (C12-16 ethoxylated alcohols & mineral spirits), and the variable balance being mineral oil & white mineral oil. Viscosity is 4.5, not 32. It is NOT a hydraulic/slideway oil. It's a pneumatic tool oil and cleaner. It's probably the runny stuff that evaporates, exactly what Alfamacchine warned against. It will not adhere to elastomer seals to the extent a slideway oil will.

Fuchs makes a product that doesn't list Cincinnati P-53 (because that doesn't belong in an MSDS), but has all the other descriptive characteristics I described Magna GC/SW32 as having. The Fuchs 32 viscosity slideway product is RENEP CGLP 32. (CGLP was another common term I found but didn't know what it meant, so I didn't mention it).

So it appears someone (could be ITW, when they acquired AMP) switched product recommendation while retaining the GC 32 'requirement'.

If the ITW064 works fine on new-from-factory underpinners, I hope it doesn't wreak havoc on a 30+(?) year old VN4 the owner NEVER oiled.

Especially at $83.16/quart. Looks like Fuchs sells it for $271 for 12 quarts/3 gallons. To be fair, I didn't find a single quart price.

Maybe ITW 'shot the engineer' decades ago.

Time for me to do something else today. I have exhausted my polite vocabulary.

One needn't be a lawyer or chemist to be a picture framer or v-nailer tech.

The manuals tell us we require one thing but the product being supplied is now, and may have been for 30+ years, a completely different product
 
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Ignore the lunatic rant (above, not the following one!).

I have a quart of T064 en route from Fletcher-Terry, and they nicely confirmed it's the same product that used to be sold as a pint and sent the (M)SDS for Fuchs ATC855.

I've just decided that is not what I wanted, and I'll continue on my quest to procure the original Alfamacchine recommended material, thru alchemy or imagination.

So, once the T064 quart it arrives, I'll offer it up, unopened, for the same price I paid (with the shipping), so there won't be a 2nd shipping cost to any one interested (otherwise, what's the incentive?). I got the impression it has to go via Ground shipping due to the chemical composition, and this presents complication, or at minimum, confusion, about shipping to another country. On the other hand, if Fuchs ATC855 Air Lube is available in your country, you may have local sourcing at better pricing. I haven't figured out whether Fuchs is in Germany or Switzerland, but they have business presence in both.
Thank you very much, Un Sp!

I won't know unless I ask...what is the possibility of you knowing the characteristics of the (likely-metric) nail feed pusher set screw?

It is more difficult for me with the screw missing, and metric set screws being a bit less common here. Actually, The pusher might not be captive in the nail slide/tray, and it remains there thanks to gravity.

I need to actually try to lift it out upon my next visit.

Murray
This machine is missing more than the set screw for the nail magazine pneumatic cylinder claw pusher head. The claw pusher head sub-component that the set-screw threads into is also missing. It's a cylindrical piece of metal about 7-8 mm diameter, drilled for the 3mm diameter nail magazine pneumatic cylinder shaft, and threaded for the set screw.

So my only options are to order the complete assembly, which is not very costly, in my opinion, if you can recognize which version you have (two are available), or to make a replacement cylinder from aluminum or brass. It would seem easier to replace the entire assembly, but many components are difficult to reach with the VN4 installed in its floor stand. So I am going to try to make the missing part. I think that is easier than accessing the complete magazine loading cylinder for replacement.
 
OK, now I'm completely confused. Are you saying the ATC855 is what we should be using to keep a newer underpinner lubricated?

I remember years ago I unexpectedly received a little maintenance kit for my old VN2+1 from ITW, containing some replacement felt hold-down pads, and a little bottle of ATC855.
When that ran out, I bought a quart bottle, which I still have most of. I replaced my old machine with a new U300 two or three years ago. I have used a little of the ATC855 a few times, but have usually just added a little squirt a month of Bostitch Premium Grade Pneumatic Tool Lubricant (Premoil-402), which is what I use in my pneumatic point guns, pin nailers, and stapler.
Am I doing it right or wrong?
:coffeedrinker2: Rick
 
Alfamacchine, who has made the machines since before Fletcher and before ITW bought Alfamacchine, has always instructed that Castrol Magna GC 32 be used, or an equivalent. Others have noted this is difficult to identify a source of. Various generations of manuals have language instructing users not use a specific composition instead of what they instruct. They don't identify specific products to avoid, just a description, and why to not use it. Some older manuals insisted only silicone oils be used, with no specifics, and later manuals said to NEVER use silicone oils.

ITW has been offering a T-064, and also formerly T-080 (same, but a different size container). Fuchs ATC 855 is the current item supplied.

If it works, and all parties are happy, including the machines, then it must be good enough, and not incorrect. Properly lubricated, we should not need to replace pneumatic components for an incredibly long time, according to the service language in every manual I have ever seen.

What I am ranting about is:

0) Neither Fuchs ATC 855 nor Castrol Magna GC 32 is a silicone oil. Great. That was a useless detour in the historical documentation.

1) Castrol Magna GC 32 no longer exists. It was renamed Castrol Magna SW 32. The current Fletcher Alfamacchine manuals still call for Castrol Magna GC 32 or equivalent. I can't believe I am the only person who was stubborn enough to research this and find the new name.

2) There are a confusing array of lubricants made by Castrol and others that contain a '32', yet are different chemistries. But they have a viscosity of 32 (let's not talk about the viscosity units, as it's a distraction). 32 is not the factor that makes different products equivalent. The chemistry must be equivalent. Why? Mainly because the plastic, rubber, and elastomer components inside the array of pneumatic components are not compatible with every chemical that has a viscosity of 32.

3) I looked up A) Fuchs ATC 855 and B) several equivalents of Castrol Magna SW 32, which are documented ad nauseum and all that meet the standards are interchangeable.

4) Fuchs ATC 855 has a viscosity of 4.5 and has a completely different chemical composition. I am not saying anything untrue, but being retired and having too much time on my hands, realize it is what is offered. Fletcher/AMP don't actually say it is equivalent. That they continue to print a product you should use in the manual tells me someone who made the decision to switch products did so decades ago and there is possibly no awareness of the difference.

5) Maybe ATC 855 is wonderful and no one ever has a problem again, and I shouldn't worry about it. Not using anything at all causes problems. I did not use anything for a longtime because I couldn't make sense of the contradictions, and I had my share of malfunctions.

6) Most of the pneumatic components in the AMP v-nailers I have used, are made by Pneumax. Some of the regulators and fittings that interconnect through the plastic piping are made by MW (MetalWork) and Sistem-P (Sistem-Pneumatica), all Italian manufacturers. These components are the vital organs of the air-powered v-nailers. I have not looked at the lubrication specs for anyone but Pneumax, and they still identify a requirement, not for specifically Castrol, but a classification (HG32) that Castrol Magna SW 32 and other products that are identical DO meet. It gets more confusing with the international variations. But if you'll trust me, the original product requirement or equivalent as stated cryptically in generations of AMP manuals, is still correct, and consistent with what Pneumax states is the requirement. Not the only reason, but they do state that that category of material is compatible with their internal components. HG32 is a very unique classification for a 'slide way' lubricant of a specific viscosity that also meets definitions as a hydraulic lubricant. It is made by many companies in huge inconvenient sized containers, 5, 55 and I think 1000 gallon I think. None of the other classifications of slide way oils meet the unique standards for HG32. Pneumax designed this into the functionality of the pneumatic moving components and the fittings.

7) So who else cares besides me? I don't know, but now that I do know, I can swim upstream and find an industrial distributor of Pneumax and get the material I want to put into someone else's v-nailer because I am helping them restore it operationally. Maybe everyone on here has no problem using what is offered as an alternative rather than equivalent. Maybe a thinner viscosity solvent-containing air lube and cleaner is a great idea for gunked up machines that people have never oiled (some manuals say filter lubricator unit is optional) and great for machines people have gunked up with other fluid products. Maybe the unpredictable effects of products that are not equivalent and of unknown compatibility with the pneumatics take so long to happen there is no scientific way to know what difference it makes. But there were logical reasons something was directed as a requirement originally, and is still consistent with the technology. There are reasons I will never learn why an alternate product made for air tools was substituted. It's possible the material stated in the manual works perfectly when proper lubrication method is utilized, but it cannot solve long-term negligence cases quickly enough, and the thinner, solvent-based alternative was offered, and became common practice. Pneumatic valves, etc. operate via air, but I think the similarity between a nail gun and pneumatic logic, sequencing and timing devices in an underpinner is minimal.

8)
 
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