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Miter Saw 45s and Moulding

Stephen Enggass

CGF, Certified Grumble Framer
Joined
Aug 12, 2019
Messages
177
Hello all,
Can anyone share some tips as to how you clamp moulding when using a miter saw to cut. As you all know, holding by hand can result in less than perfect cuts... close, but not quite. My saw is spot on when moulding is secured but some moulding profiles can be challenging. Looking for clever ideas that you might be able to share.
Thanks,
Steve
 

David Hewitt

CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
Joined
Feb 26, 2009
Messages
452
We don't use a clamp on wood, only on metal, but what we did do, was line the base (not the fence) with self self adhesive 100 grit sand paper. It holds the moulding firml with a little pressure. Our saw is a De Walt.
 
Last edited:

Stephen Enggass

CGF, Certified Grumble Framer
Thread starter
Joined
Aug 12, 2019
Messages
177
My saw is a DeWalt as well. I have a high quality blade on it was well. That sounds like a great idea. I'd have to figure a way to not cover measuring grid... may small pieces every so many inches.
 

Prospero

SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God
Joined
Jul 16, 2007
Messages
19,300
I never clamp. And having two saws (left and right) means I don't disturb the calibration by
swinging the head.

One tip: Make sure the blade is up to speed before plunging.
 

Stephen Enggass

CGF, Certified Grumble Framer
Thread starter
Joined
Aug 12, 2019
Messages
177
Thanks. Another thing I have noticed is that on some wider moulding, the base of the moulding can be slightly convex(rounded). This also effects the the cut. Should the moulding be setting on back of 'roll' on the fence side, or front of 'roll'... Do you know what I mean? How do you all handle this?
 
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snafu

MGF, Master Grumble Framer
Joined
Mar 2, 2003
Messages
965
Thanks. Another thing I have noticed is that on some wider moulding, the base of the moulding can be slightly convex(rounded). This also effects the the cut. Should the moulding be setting on back of 'roll' on the fence side, or front of 'roll'... Do you know what I mean? How do you all handle this?

Return the moulding. there should be no convex to the base of the moulding.
 

CHolt

True Grumbler
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Messages
90
For some profiles it will help to set a wood-block against the rabbet and clamp the stick to the saw fence, tall stuff especially, and you'll need a deep c-clamp for that. With some lower profile moulding use an end-cut from a stick of the same moulding you are cutting flipped over and set lip to lip to help clamp it to the fence. If the base of the moulding is crowned it's defective, probably because the wood wasn't processed or stored correctly.
 

David Hewitt

CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
Joined
Feb 26, 2009
Messages
452
Post #3 You only need the sand paper on the bottom base of the saw, not the extensions.
I buy the self adhesive sand paper in 6 inch wide rolls. I run a piece from end to end, (22-23inches) then trim out areas so the bed can move freely from left to right, and then trim area so the blade has a clear path.
Also on moulding with a slight warp, put a shim at the far end of the extension to help keep the end you are cutting flat against the base.
 

CHolt

True Grumbler
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Messages
90
OP: Do a google seach on "CNC cam clamp". You could buy it or make it if you could install it on your saw.
 
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