Mirrors in Metal frames.

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FrameMakers

FrameMakers

PFG, Picture Framing God
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Mar 20, 2001
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Just took in a job for 3 mirrors that go into Nielsen 119-G04. There are two at 38x30 and one at 38x42.

I am wondering if I should wrap the edge of the mirror to pad it against the metal frame. I was thinking some flexible tubing slit and put on the edge or at least the corners.

How would you suggest hanging these?

Any other thoughts that I am missing?
 
When I've thought of framing a mirror with
metal, I've wondered whether the inside of
the frame lip would reflect weirdly on it. I know
that with wood, we color the lip so it doesn't
show. If that's so, it might be another good
reason to line the mirror edge.

I'm interested to see whether the experts
here recommend adding a wooden bracer
frame to the back of it, or some such other
thingamajig, due to the weight of the mirror.
 
I don't like the idea of metal moulding supporting the weight of a mirror. It may look OK when it leaves your shop, but even with using high bias hardware (aftermarket tapped corners that put extra force on closing the top corners)-

Note: such as AMS- 1B3-1MK Extra Biased version of the AMS Standard Threaded Angles pre-started with slotted headless screws. The added bias may offer tighter front joins for frames: (a) supporting heavy objects, (b) made from profiles with large distance from front to rear, (c) with sections poorly cut, or (d) with slightly twisted mouldings.)

the corners still may open up. And, a mirror like that can also flex the corners when carried and the leverage is enough to bend the hardware.


A 38 x 42 1/4" mirror weighs about 36 pounds.

You have 3/4" of fitting contents in that moulding. If I were doing the framing, I would mount the mirror to a good quality birch plywood using mirror mastic. I would also mount some build-up from the back that is the thickness of the chanel where the frame hardware goes so the actual wood back is flush enough to use a z-bar type hanger and I would screw the metal frame to the plywood all around. By doing so, the frame is actually only facsia and does not support the mirror at all.

http://www.dkhardware.com/product-15117-gn100a-gunther-ultra-bond-mirror-mastic-in-cartridges.html

I also like using CRL setting blocks on the bottom so the edge does not sit on the metal frame. You can use 1/4" ATG to hold them in place while fitting. Then the weight of the mirror will keep them. This is especially important if the frame is going in a bathroom.

http://www.dkhardware.com/product-7437-psb125-1-8-x-1-4-x-2-clear-plastic-setting-blocks.html
 
Since I don't sell metal I don't know how wide the lip is but mat board strips will do the trick.
 
if you don't have the plastic.
We used to put strips of mat board in the bottom& side pieces call it recycling.
 
I had thought of using mastic to plywood and then hanging from the plywood.
Of course they swallowed hard at the price I quoted them anyways. So what ever I do, I have to watch the material costs.
 
FrameTite system from Albin Products.

Works well on both metal and wood frames. They show the wood hardware on the site picture but the hardware for metal frames fits in the channel.
You cut the aluminum bracing to size. Much more secure than just using wire bracing for large metal frames.

I have gone the matboard strip route for the mirror edges.

http://www.albinproducts.com/html/products.html
 
For the hanging large metal I use wall buddies for metal frames....

They work for me...
 
Rob Markoff said:
...I would mount the mirror to a good quality birch plywood using mirror mastic. I would also mount some build-up from the back that is the thickness of the chanel where the frame hardware goes so the actual wood back is flush enough to use a z-bar type hanger and I would screw the metal frame to the plywood all around. By doing so, the frame is actually only facsia and does not support the mirror at all.
Click to expand...

Bingo.

In order to pad the edges of the mirror, you could run 1/4" wide Volara foam all the way around. I also use it on glass in Nielsen 100-profile shadowbox frames, which prevents excess rattling.
 
what was i thinking I agree with Rob Tooo.....
 
I have framed a mirror measuring 30x58" we made wood stretcher bars slid them behind the mirror (with mat board buffer between) We then hung the mirror fro the wood stretcher bars this mirror was 1/4" thick so very heavy the frame was then secured to the wood stretcher bars, for added stability.
Nick
 
Just a note to let everyone know what we ended up doing. To keep weight and costs down I ripped down a sheet of 1/2 birch plywood to 2" strips. I then made these into strainer frames. The strainers were glued to the mirror. The metal frames were fit around the mirror/strainer combination. I then screwed HD Wallbuddies into the strainer.
 
Sounds like a perfect solution. But, if you screwed the wallbuddies to the strainer, how did they flush up to the wall, or did you build up the strainer to be flush with the back of the metal frame?

The point is, you glued the mirrors to a strainer and then hung the framed mirror from the strainer, NOT from the frame- which is the best solution.

Pictures?
 
The thickness of the wallbuddies is the same as the channel. So this actually works better then if they were put on a wood frame. The mirrors will hang tighter to the wall.

61290abe.jpg


BTW I almost never put 6 screws into wallbuddies. The 3 on the short side are too close together and could cause splitting.
 
ya that works toooo.....
 
The picture really helps! I forgot that HD wall buddies have that big offset - and you are right - they will sit closer to the wall. Just hope that whatever anchors they use in the wall don't pull out!

Looks like oak veneer plywood to me? The an@l complusive in me would have put the V nails face down to the mirror :). So the back of the mirror was exposed? Not a criticism, just an inquiry.
 
I thought about it Rob, but if any of the v-nail was not flush it could have scratched the mirror. I was just playing it safe.

It could have been Oak, it was in the Birch slot. For the job, I didn't really care. What I was looking at was the number of layers. I could have gone cheaper with a 3 layer ply but opted for this 7 layer one.
 
Back to the second question - was the back of the mirror left exposed?
 
Yes it was. If it were in a wood frame I would have backed it, but since the plywood strainer needed to be glued to the mirror, the backing would have had to go on the back of the strainer and there was not enough room in the frame for even a sheet of matboard. I also figured that since this was going into a bathroom that any porous material would warp in a short time I didn't see the need.
 
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