Methods to Buff & Polish Acrylic Sheets

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Mel

MGF, Master Grumble Framer
Joined
Sep 4, 1998
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846
Loc
Pendleton, OR, USA
After receiving some horrid UV-filtering, so-called non-glare custom cut acylic for four frames, I have decided to start cutting my own acylic.

The pieces I received were Plexiglass brand (Atohous). Although my supplier claims two pieces are non-glare and two are regular, both state on the peel-off paper that they are Standard Finish. It really doesn't matter because, regardless, they are unacceptable. One side is semi-non-glare, and the other side, although smoother, has an almost corrugated and mottled appearance.

Because I can get sheets of Cyro Acrylite from my main framing supplier, I want to be able to not only cut it, but finish the edges for the few clip-art frames I do for low-cost display pieces. I would like to know what tools I need to polish the edges. Just a sander?, also a buffer?

(I have a vague memory of this discussion earlier, but could find nothing in the archives.)

[This message has been edited by Mel (edited June 12, 2001).]
 
A router, turned upside down, set into a table so that it can be adjusted height wise will work if you have a small enough bit for it. It's called Bull Nosing the edges, it rounds off the edges after cutting. I worked with a router that was set into the table and you could adjust the head so that the acrylic, when laid flat on a table against a jig would take a hair off of the edges. Or, if you want to get really fancy, you can do what is called a flame polish. You run a blow torch(the small ones with the little tanks) very quickly down the edge of the plexi. It melts the rough edges.

Nikki
 
You can score a line with a utility knife and crack the Acrylic on the side of your work bench, finish with a very fine wet an dry sandpaper (grit paper in the USA I think) finish by polishing with Mr. Sheen furniture polish, this will keep the static down and will give a great finish. (If you do not have the brand Mr. Sheen in the USA sorry I do not know what the brand name is in the USA, it is a dust guard type furniture cleaner.)

Dermot
ON THE EDGE Picture Framing
 
Novus polishes from United. There are 1, 2, and 3. Depending on whether scratch removing is an issue.

------------------
Timberwoman
AL
I cut the mat, I pet the =^..^= cat.
 
Mel, do I remember that you have a wallcutter? Does it have a plexi blade cartridge? I remove my glass wheel cartridge and make the substitution easily with the other blade. We cut plexi just like glass. Saves relying on unreliable suppliers.....
 
On the utility knife thingy:

If you go to the hardware store. Where they sell the utility blades and holders, there are other blades that look rather funky. They also fit in a standard Utility blade holder. There is one that is called "plastic cutting blade." This makes any utility knive a plastic scoring tool. It will work far better than using a regular utility blade for the task. Heck, they cost the same as the blade you are wasting anyways.
This is good to have around even if you have a wall cutter, for those oversize jobs, where the plex won't fit in the cutter.
If you need a smmoth visible edge, sandpaper is the cheap way, a router is the expensive way. Results are most always comensrate with the tool used.

Of course "flaming" the edge works too. But I think having an Oxy-acetelene setup in our shop might provide to be too much fun. Hence we do not have such a thing. We go down the street for that.

If I am correct, this is in this months issue of PFM. I could be wrong. I have not gotten my copy yet
 
One day I found a curious tool at my plastic supplier. It's a piece of steel apptroximately 1" wide x 8" long x 1/16" thick, with notches on one edge and handles on both ends.

It is used like a draw knife; hold the tool perpendicular to the edge and draw it along with some pressure. The notches of different sizes and shapes can be used to smooth and/or round off the acrylic's edges.

It cost only a few dollars, and it works beautifully.
 
Yes, I have two wallcutters, and I find that the C&H does a good job cutting plexi. Didn't try the Fletcher because the screw to hold the blade in is missing (it is being sent as we speak). The polished edges is the procedure on which I was unable to find any information.

Routers, sanders, polishers, I have all. But I really like the torching idea. My score is pretty rough when it cracks open. I assume I should sand first.

Thanks for the ideas. I'll print out and experiment.

Marcia
 
I have one of those draw tools Jim mentioned. He is absolutly correct, they work great.
White toothpast makes an exelent buffing compound, also works great for removing scratches.

John
 
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