Metal versus wood?

Slick

Grumbler in Training
Joined
May 26, 2004
Posts
9
Loc
Michigan
I am a newbie so forgive my ignorance, but when is it appropriate to use a metal frame versus a wood frame in reference to the size of art you are framing. I am concerned about the weight of the glass used for very large pictures.
Also, is there a standard reference on what width(1",1 1/2" 2" or 3" etc)the frame should be, based on the size of the art being framed.
 
Oh dear. This is a huge question. I'm not sure it can be adequately answered here.

I'll just break off a couple of chunks:

Unless the piece is a pastel drawing or some other friable medium, I try to use plexi on anything larger than 32 x 40. (How are you defining 'very large'?)

Both wood and metal frames come in such a variety of sizes that I can't answer your first question.

Assuming that the frame is strong enough to physically support the work, what's appropriate is determined by the art itself and by the customer.

My personal rule is the bigger the frame, the more important the piece looks. The mat (if there is one) should be wider than the frame. I don't think it's possible to have a frame be too big, so long as the mat width is proportional.

You're looking for rules and absolutes - there aren't any. There's mostly just eyeball and experience. When in doubt, err on the side of overkill.

Kit
 
Metal? Metal is less than 10% of our sales. Back in the seventies and eighties, we sold a heck of a lot of the stuff, but now it's over.

Kit is correct, anything over 32X40, use Plexiglas. Single strength glass in a larger metal frame can be downright dangerous. Those nice folks who are trying to save money by using glass in a large metal frame, will be the first ones who sue you when a family member gets cut on the broken glass. Pass on the project if they insist, save yourself some grief.

The first part of your question is a design and structural issue. What frame do you use on a blue painting? What frame do you use on a predominately green landscape? Those questions can not be answered without the piece in front of you at the design table, unless you like to take long shots.

John
 
Since May of 2001*, metal accounts for 35% of my dollar sales in custom frames. That's probably unusual. I like metals. Apparently, my customers also like metals.

I like white rag mats, too.

*Numbers are probably similar for previous periods, but that's when my current sales spreadsheet started.
 
We're standing pretty steady with about 18-20% in metal.

I'm with the rest 32x40 is the cut-off in general to sell OP3.

EXCEPT: If the metal frame is a small or narrow, my personal is 20x30.

The new Neilsons are kind of exciting and large & sturdy, but for us pencil out at about $24/ft. That is nice Cherry land or even solid Walnut.....

baer
 
Originally posted by Ron Eggers:
metal accounts for 35% of my dollar sales in custom frames. That's probably unusual.
Why is it unusual?

I haven't generated enough numbers in the last two months to be statistically relevant but I'm guessing that 35% metal sounds about right for my sales.

Are we counting the metal frames stacked inside of wood?

Kit
 
Metal is quick easy and profitable. You can train someone to assemble metal frames in about ten minutes or less. I was in the hospital for 6 days and walked my bookkeeper (who had never framed before) over the telephone from my hospital bed through five 25X36 metal frames with UV glass cutting, etc. She did GREAT!

If you do use metal on large pieces (and I do all the time up to even 48"x48"), be sure to attach stays across the frame so that the frame doesn't bow out and pop the glass out.

To attach stays:

1.) Put one wall hanging hardware on each of the longer sides.

2.) Tighten one hanger left of center.

3.) Attach wire to tightened hanger.

4.) Attach wire with moderately tight tension to other hanger on opposite side.

5.) Slide loose hanger away from opposite side hanger until wire twangs middle C (just had to use that measurement...) and tighten.

6.) Still warn your customers to carry large metal frames with two hands and let someone else open the door for them.

7.) Don't forget to charge something for the stay(s).

Metal frames are actually quite strong structurally except for the bowing problem. Some of the new profiles from Nielson last few intros are outstanding and an easy sell. I'd like to see a greater variety of colors in these new profiles though.

Dave Makielski


Favorite joke...

"How many orientals does it take to change a light bulb?"

"Duh, I don't know."

"I don't know either, but 'many hands make light work!'."

Always tell this when someone helps me wrap their large frame job.
 
Why are we buying 40x60 conservation glass? I hate to work with it that large but we do it. Nothing like a large Harley poster framed in a chrome designer, can't rember the # but a wide rounded top, black mat 32x60. It looked so great he wanted another.

Metal goes on the low and high end in dollars and quality.

Metals, Pollys and woods have to be large enough to support the size.
 
I use more metal mouldings than wood. I didn't use much metal until Nielsen hired me to find creative ways to use it and teach other framers some of my ideas but once I really looked at it and let the creative juices flow I love metal. It's strong and easy to assemble, as has been posted, and the chop price is competitive with wood.

I had always used it as a liner with stitcheries or to get a little color lip with a wooden frame, but with some of the new profiles and finishes that have come out the last few years, there are so many stacking combinations that look great and cannot be achieved with wood. Customers like them because they do look so different.

I did a job today that had the Nielsen profile 67-23 Antique Gold inside the Nielsen Natural Elements 41E253 Aged Copper. Try it, it's gorgeous.
 
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