Metal moulding shadowbox question

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acrompton

MGF, Master Grumble Framer
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Louisville, KY
Ok, this may sound like a dumb question, but sometimes I feel dumb when I am doing something for the first time.

I am framing a jersey and need to use a metal moulding that does not have the slotting for the glass that most metal shadowbox mouldings have. According to Vivian's book on Framing Collectibles, metal frames do not require lining and/or sealing of rabbets. BUT she doesn't really say much else.

How then, without the slot, does one secure the glass? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks! :shrug:

Angela
 
The customer wants a wider frame than the profile 100 offers. We are looking at Designer 49-25.

For the liner, would just matboard hold the glass in place? Or should we use some econospace or something like that behind the mat liner?

Thanks!
 
Here's one possibility. I'm sure some of the more seasoned veterans have other ideas.

Cut long strips of 3/16" acid-free foam board wide enough to fill the space between the mat and the glass when the strips are stood on their side. If profile 49 is the 1-15/32" frame (I'm at home, so can't look at the specifier), then your strips will be between 1" and 1-1/4" wide, depending on your mat and backing boards. Cut matboard strips the same width as your foam strips. Attach the matboard strips to the foamboard strips with ATG (short-term adhesion) and glue (longer-term adhesion). Stand these newly-assembled strips on their sides around the inside perimeter of the matboard. The mat-lined side of the foam strips faces into the center of the frame to create a lined shadowbox look. The other ("back") side of the strips is flush with the edges of your matboard. The strips along the top and bottom of the frame should span the entire width of the matboard. The vertical strips should fit in between the top and bottom strips. Use wide linen tape to attach to the back of the strips, along the edge of your mat/foamboard, and down under the backing board. Also tape the corners where the strip edges meet.

This gives you enough width around the entire perimeter to separate the glass from the mat but still keep the edges of the "spacers" hidden under the frame lip.
 
Thanks so much, Natalya. Your description is exactly what I needed. I assume that by building this the way you outline, I do not need to put in FrameSpace or EconoSpace - correct? Whoa, live and learn. Thanks again.:)
 
It is better and more stable to use Coroplast or archival corrogated board with matboard mounted on the face that is to be viewed. Use the flutes as a strong support. Foamcore tends too smoosh down and dent.

PL
 
acrompton said:
Thanks so much, Natalya. Your description is exactly what I needed. I assume that by building this the way you outline, I do not need to put in FrameSpace or EconoSpace - correct? Whoa, live and learn. Thanks again.:)
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That's correct. The strips are doing the work that the econospace would do -- and giving the shadowbox a nice, lined appearance to boot. Be sure you're charging for the lined shadowbox look -- definitely more work than just slapping spacers into the frame. If you have stops on your mat cutter, use them to ensure every strip is exactly the same width so the weight of the glass is distributed over the entire perimeter, and not just over the highest points of the perimeter.
 
Patrick Leeland said:
It is better and more stable to use Coroplast or archival corrogated board with matboard mounted on the face that is to be viewed. Use the flutes as a strong support. Foamcore tends too smoosh down and dent.

PL
Click to expand...

Good point Patrick. Yet another incentive to find myself a Coroplast source.
 
Yeah

Natalya Murphy said:
Good point Patrick. Yet another incentive to find myself a Coroplast source.
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Don't know why the stuff is so hard to get ahold of. None of my moulding suppliers carry it. The only wholesale source I can find is through a glass company that we buy mirrors and tempered glass from and they only sell boxes. Guess I'll have to buy a box someday.

Why doesn't LJ sell it??
 
Doug Gemmell said:
Don't know why the stuff is so hard to get ahold of. None of my moulding suppliers carry it....
Why doesn't LJ sell it??
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Because it is not a framing industry product, and most framers -- except Grumblers and PPFA Hitchhikers, of course -- have never heard of it.

Most framing distributors have not had customers screaming for Coroplast. When and if they do, they will stock it.

It is a sign-making product, so check with the distributors of sign-making materials in your area. Industrial sheet & tube plastic distributors sometimes have it, too.
 
Doug Gemmell said:
Don't know why the stuff is so hard to get ahold of. None of my moulding suppliers carry it. The only wholesale source I can find is through a glass company that we buy mirrors and tempered glass from and they only sell boxes. Guess I'll have to buy a box someday.

Why doesn't LJ sell it??
Click to expand...

Try your local Home Depot... The one near my place carries white 4x8 sheets. I think it is with the windows and stuff.
 
Cheap

Thanks for the info Natalya and Jim. What are you guys paying for it? I want to avoid retail if I can.....I think the glass company's price is around $16/sheet.
 
We have a unique shop that does engraving, signs, banners, and framing. We buy coroplast from a sign wholesaler here in AZ, wholesalebanners.com...I usually keep 32*24 & 18*24 in stock because we sell those sizes. We pay around 83¢ for 50 at a time.

If a local framer came in and need a piece I'd just as likely GIVE them one...it's good to have friends locally!! If it becomes a regular thing then we'd have to charge him to offset delivery charges & such, but I'm not trying to be in the wholesale supplies business!

Regarding the framing issue... I am not sure I understand what's going on. Are you trying to build up a spacer to put against the inside edge of the frame to hold the glass down??

When I have to do that we cut acrylic strips. We keep acrylite sheets in stock in various thicknesses for custom trophies.
 
I just looked in the yellow pages and and saw a heading there called "Signs - Equip. & Supls.". I called one of the companies listed there and the sales rep quoted me $12.30 for a 4'x8' sheet of white coroplast. Another company quoted me $10.30 for an uncut sheet, or $15 if custom-cut (within reason).

They also have smaller sizes available in stock (18x24, 24x48).

Fun fact I didn't realize: an 18x24 sheet isn't the same as a 24x18 sheet of Coroplast -- it depends on which way the fluting runs.

Never would have thought about that making a difference...
 
FrameTek's FrameSpace is perfect for framing jerseys. It comes in 10 sizes including 3/8 inch airspace, 1/2 inch arispace, and 3/4 inch airspace. It works in both wood and metal frames.

It's easy to use, fast, mechanically permanent, removable, and look just fine thank you. Check out the web pages.
 
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